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T5 Noise

I think if that were the issue he would feel a helluva vibration. Since its only when pedal is engaged i would follow the trail, pedal, pedal return spring (should have been removed), cable, lever, TO, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel.... Eliminate them one at a time
 
"mmw68" said:
pedal return spring (should have been removed).....

I should not be using it?
Click to expand...

They can be removed if you are using a diaphragm clutch. If you are using a standard 3-finger clutch, you must use it.

For testing, you can remove the return spring under the dash, but you'll have to pull the clutch pedal back up off the floor manually. Otherwise, it is only used for assisting pushing in and returning the clutch pedal from the half-way point.
 
"B67FSTB" said:
There is a differents in starters if you have an automatic or manual gearbox/trans.
Any serious mustang catalog will tell you. :confu
Click to expand...
You use an automatic starter with a t5 or tko transmission. I'm running the same starter with my tko as when I had the c4 installed.

"Midlife" said:
They can be removed if you are using a diaphragm clutch. If you are using a standard 3-finger clutch, you must use it.
Click to expand...

Is that for cable or hydraulic clutches? I'm using the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing with a custom Hayes clutch, which is a long style clutch (three finger). I removed the spring from under the dash. I haven't had any issues with the clutch.
 
"mmw68" said:
Yeah - I agree. I really need to find a very good Ford guy in Austin, Iam not having any luck yet.
Click to expand...

I know of such a guy. I'll get his name for you.
 
Dropped the pan and found about 3/16 play on the 3rd bearing, pictures tell everything.

bearing1.jpg


crankshaft2.jpg


crankshaft1.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
WOW!!!! Sorry to here about that. Hopefully they can polish the crank out. I take it that the bearing spun. I was hoping I wasn't right on my idea of too much crank shaft end play.
 
That happened on my cleveland in my 71.

That car sat for about 3 years without running. Took about 300 miles for it to fail.
 
Interesting..... this engine sat for a while, don't really know how long, and it took about 300ish miles before this happen.

I have a line on a new crank kit - not a reman, and just need to figure out when and where to put it in.
 
Update:

So I have a new Crank and bearings - not a remanufactured, but a new crank!

But now Iam second guessing what I should do? Pull and rebuild what I have? Or, put the money into a nice longblock or crate engine. Iam afraid that once we pull the engine, and tear into it - we are going to find other problems, and at that point, I might as well start fresh. Money wise - I think I'll come out even - labor V.S long block.

What do you guys think????
 
If you can get the long block built the way you want it.....it should have a fair warranty on it.....

If you build it yourself, you also are the one doing the warranty work.

I would say if the engine will be close to stock, go the long block.
 
If you have the resources, go longblock and be done with it. Check fordstrokers.com. I hear they build a helluva engine.

I think sumitt has some good deals on ford motors.

You can always pull the other motor apart and rebuild it for resale later. If I had it to do over, I'd cough up another 3 grand over what I put in my rebuild and bought the Ford Racing 427 Windsor.
 
[quote author=Sluggo link=topic=13069.msg174573#msg174573 You can always pull the other motor apart and rebuild it for resale later.
[/quote]

I think Iam going to use Dne' engine builder "Herb", I think Rusty has used him too. Iam going to drop in a very nice 347. Then I do plan to recoup some of my funds with a rebuild of the 302 I have.

Herb seems like the real deal, I've had several conversations with him, and e-mails.
 
I think I know why my engine blew up:


If you are junkyard or swap-meet hunting, keep in mind that the four-cylinder T5 transmission looks the same but actually has a longer input shaft and slightly smaller-diameter pilot shaft. If you bolt the four-cylinder T5 into a V-8 application, the clutch will chatter on engagement, because the pilot shaft is loose inside the pilot bushing. Worse yet, the longer input shaft presses forward into the crankshaft, placing pressure on the thrust surface of the main bearing, which will quickly destroy the bearing and cause major engine damage.

If that isn't enough, four-cylinder transmissions have deeper 4:1 First-gear ratios that are substantially weaker than the V-8 boxes. Borg-Warner engineer Steve Whitaker advises that you steer clear of pre-'85 V-8 T5s, as well, since they are a little weaker than the post-'85 models. Furthermore, the new '94 Mustang T5 is different from either of the previous T5s and will not interchange. Hey, nobody said it was easy! The bottom line is that there's no reason to buy a four-cylinder T5, even if it's dirt cheap.



Read more: http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarti ... z1bTghwklB
 
I don't want to be a pain in the a$$ , but you had to inform yourself a bit better ! :roll :roll
I did , when looking for a T5 that suits my 351W.
Its a T5z " ford motorsport " trans , bought on ebay for $600.
For my application , its a bulletproof setup IIRC.

Interesting link : http://www.freewebs.com/mustangtechlink ... ronics.htm

Let it be a lesson for future projects , the wise man said. :bowdown
 
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