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Thinking ahead to my future engine tear down....(engine's out)

Anybody have a set of stud girdles sitting around for 3/8" studs so I can check to see if it stops the movement? Needs to be for 1966 Iron heads.
 
"silverblueBP" said:
Anybody have a set of stud girdles sitting around for 3/8" studs so I can check to see if it stops the movement? Needs to be for 1966 Iron heads.
Click to expand...
not yet but you have convinced me to get some for the Drag Car motor!
 
I just read through this thread, and

A) Bummer, Mark. But at least you had fun breaking stuff:)

B) As it happens, I actually have a full set of brand new Ford-sized 3/8 rocker studs I'm trying to get rid of. They came on my Trick Flow heads and I yanked them in favor of 7/16" studs, since those were what I had on my old heads and matched my existing roller rockers. If you haven't bought a set yet, I'm sure we could work something out.
 
Thanks Tad, I'll keep you in mind.

I'm going to do a test mock up that will resemble a stud girdle to see if that stops the flex. If it does I'll stay with 3/8" studs and rockers. If not then I'll be moving up to 7/16".

I keep seeing way to many $$$$$$
 
Hmmmm, maybe this instead of replacing the studs, locks and girdles?

Probe shaft rocker set

shaft%20mount%20rockers.gif




Thoughts?

I can get the set for just over $500
 
Thought I'd go out and check the rockers a little more. Straightened all the locks so a straight edge wood rest on the flat. I was going to clamp 2 pcs together to mimic a stud girdle and check to see if it got rid of the stud movement in the previous picture.

What I just found is that the # 2 exhaust stud is bent upwards almost 1/8" :ep Maybe it happened when the other one came apart, maybe it's a symptom of my problem, I don't know. I do know that it makes me lean a LOT further towards a shaft rocker setup.




BentrockerstudLarge.jpg




The driver side locks all line up, dead on.
 
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I'm thinking when this is all done add an electromagnetic air cleaner.... when parts succumb at least the engine may stall with lack of air through the carb as it becomes home to all the metal debris.

Just a lame thought .... I know. :eek
 
Is the spring pressure enough to bend the stud in that direction... It just seems odd to me that it would be bent in that direction. I wonder if that stud is already fractured near the bottom, or perhaps it is straight and the hole tapped in the head is off angle. Dont these head normally have pressed in studs?
 
The heads originally had pressed in studs and I had them machined for the screw in studs way back in 2000. Either the stud is bad or maybe it got bent when the other one came apart. If I have time this weekend, the plan is to finish disassembling the motor and heads.
 
370lb/in shouldn't be (from my experience) enough to bend those studs. If you were running dual springs with a higher rate then I'd understand. Were the springs checked for binding at full lift? I would assume they weren't binding otherwise they all would have bent and failure would occurred much quicker.
 
All were checked. I think the other one got bent when the first one came off/apart. There is some scarring on the inside wall of the valve cover to suggest parts were tossed around.
 
Yes, that's a distinct possibility. Once I disassemble the heads I'll switch some studs and see how others sit.

It was obvious when I looked at the head the other day, I can't imagine I've missed that low these many times I've worked on it, but it is possible!
 
Finished disassembling the engine last night. Checked the threads for all the rockers and they are all OK. Found the last piece of broken polylock, so all parts are now accounted for.

Pulled the cam out, what do you think? Will it buff out? :eek:mg




BadcamLarge.jpg
 
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A little work with some 0000 steel wool and all should be good.....

What the heck.....you beat that thing with a ball peen hammer? Ouch.
 
Amazing what a hardened pushrod can do to a cam lobe huh :craz
 
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