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Transmission time

I can' thank you enough for posting that photo! That really helps me! (beautiful motor!). I definitely see why the loadleveler would be the best option!
May I ask where you purchased your headers? Those look just like what I want!
There's a northern tool not far from my home, I'll go see if they have the leveler tomorrow!
thanks!
dne'

pS; I'm still amazed how those 4 little bolts on the intake hold up that entire motor and trans!
 
Thanks or the compliments. Randy (sluggo) painted the bellhousing, dudes got mad skillz....The headers are ceramic coated JBA headers. I originally had a set of nickel plated ones but they were too blingy for my taste. I traded them for a welder and bought the ceramic ones in the picture. You can get them from JBA (which is now owned by pertronix), I found mine in a forum "for sale" section. I ended up buying them off a guy that bought multiple sets from the Unique performace auction. He only had a couple sets left when I bought mine off him, probably a year ago though.
 
other questions

Ok, I got my load leveler from Northern Tools! Looks like I'll have to remove ac/alt./distributor( I have that large distributor). If I attach the leveler chains to the back of the heads, will I be able to remove the bolts once the motor is installed? Then, do you(whomsoever) think C4 will clear the racknpinion? Any additional advice is really appreciated! oh, my shorty headers should be here later this week! :pep Bought them from Summit.
dne'
IMG_7819-1.jpg
 
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will I be able to remove the bolts once the motor is installed?
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Yes, just don't use real long bolts and you'll be okay.... an inch of bolt thread into the back of the head is plenty..... remember, with only the engine installed you'll be able to tilt the engine fore and aft creating more room between the back of the heads and the firewall to remove the bolts.

do you(whomsoever) think C4 will clear the racknpinion?
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It should clear just fine. Long tube headers could be a problem, but shorties and the R&P should clear the C-4 just fine.

Any additional advice is really appreciated!
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Finish as much work in the engine compartment as possible before installing the engine. Like connecting the steering column to the rack, front suspension components, wiring, speedo cable routing, hood hinges/align hood, etc., etc. Once the engine is sitting on the mounts you'll have to work around it in order to finish all of those little loose ends.
 
tranny/engine on the hoist!

Good grief, you can read that? yes, that's what it says~ I hope that's Ok :headac I just got through putting my tranny to my motor! I hate it when all you need is a couple bolts to finish, two lousy starter bolts! I'm unsure about the bend in the tranny lines, I was wanting to put them in at the same time too!
IMG_8130.jpg
 
Looks good. One other thing, your upper control arm bolts, does the threaded portion come all the way through the nylon portion of the nut? If not, you my want to get a shorter set of nylon lock nuts. From the looks, your not running a lock washer, so if the the nylon lock nuts are not doing there job, they may back themselves off.
 
nylon nuts

Yes, the nylon nuts don't fit like I was hoping they would. I have some nuts I bought specifically for the UCA's. I'll install them when I get back under the hood. Thank you for noticing!
dne'
 
Dne,

The reason Rick asked about the FR sticker on the rack.... the FR R&P's have a horrible reputation. Most owners usually end up ripping the unit out and beating it against the driveway cement if only to get some satisfaction out of it. Hopefully you'll have better luck with yours....
 
Ok, I want a new thread on this rack n pinion. I think I've got the tranny thing down.
dne'
 
"Sportbikechick" said:
Ok, I want a new thread on this rack n pinion. I think I've got the tranny thing down.
dne'
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I agree! A new thread on racks, and pictures are required! Nyuck Nyuck Nyuck.
 
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