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Turn signal switch

RustyRed

Active Member
Ok, possibly a stupid question but...

My horns don't work and my best guess is that I need to change the harness in the steering column. This probably also has something to do with my park lights coming on when I hit the brakes. I have the wire harness and it has been sitting on my work bench for months. Inspection is coming up in a couple of months so I am trying to focus on things that I probably need to address for it to pass. The horns and the emergency flashers not working are my last two items to resolve. I have spent a good deal of time and some money getting all the other issues resolved in the last 10 months. When I bought her, one tail light was out, one headlight only worked on high beam, the tail lights worked fine when the lights were on but the brakes did not make them brighter just a steady glow, etc, etc....Lets say I know more than I ever cared to know about the wiring on a '66 coupe...LOL.

I checked with a buddy of mine that runs a local shop and he wants a couple of hours at $50 / hour to replace the harness. Not a bad deal at all but I am saving for an engine and every little bit counts. He's a good friend and all but $100 is $100 when you are saving for an engine build.

What sort of tools do I need to take the steering wheel off and do this myself? A puller of some sort and where is a good place to find one cheap?
 

Midlife

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
This is a great do-it-yourself job.

Here's how to replace the turn signal switch:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Rotate horn button assembly counterclockwise to unfasten and remove.
3. Use a 15/16" socket and remove nut on end of steering column shaft.
4. Rock back and forth the steering wheel, trying to avoid hitting yourself in the face when it does come off. Sometimes a steering wheel remover is required (at Autozone).
5. Remove turn signal stalk.
6. Disconnect wire harness at base of steering column. There will be two connectors: a six pin and a two pin.
7. Using an empty ball point pen, slide the pen over each pin and gently pull the pin out of the connector. Note which pin goes to what position in the connector.
8. Wrap all pins with tape together, with a heavy string attached as a fishing line. You'll be pulling this string up with the wires, and use the string to pull the new wires down.
9. You may have to remove some hardware up top to pull the turn signal switch up, bringing the wires up the steering column.
10. On your new switch, put some black electrical tape on the back side of the switch, covering the rivet heads. These heads are electrically hot and can short out against the steering column (bad repro mojo).
11. Reverse steps 9 through 1.
 

RustyRed

Active Member
Thanks for the advice.

To put the wheel back on do I just put pressure on it and work it back and forth till it goes on?

I will also have an issue in that the previous owner chopped off the connectors...guess he preferred jerry rigged electrical taped / spliced wires. I have found a number of things that he jerry rigged and gets a bit frustrating at times but I just fix the issues as I find them / become aware of them :headac I have looked for the connectors but can't see to find them and one person that had them wanted a lot of money for them.

If I can get everything wired back and working I will probably use a heat gun and the shrink wrap things.
 

Sluggo

Active Member
Mid can probably come up with some connectors for you.
I'd be happy to solder them up for you and help you with the horns and lights.

One thing to check on the parklight coming on when the brake is applied is you bulb usage out back.

Classic symptom of a single filament bulb in a dual filament socket or vice versa. It could also be a flasher.

The horns could be bad or need to be adjusted. The first thing to do is see if there is power at the horn when you push the button.
 

Midlife

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Moderator
I can provide both sides of the 6 pin connector at a reasonable price ($25?), but not the switch side of the connector to the tailight harness.

As for the wheel on the steering shaft, it typically "rusts" to the splined shaft. Once it is taken off, it is very easy for it to be put back on again. Oh! Be sure and mark where the wheel was relative to the shaft when you take it off so you can put it back on straight again. Often times there's a small line engraved on the top of the shaft.
 

tarafied1

Well-Known Member
I have recently changed my TS switch on my 67, I didn't think to take pics until I was putting it back together, here are a few that might help.
This is the switch going back in

I taped a wire to the harness when I pullled out the old one, then it was in the colomn so I could tape the new one to it and pull the wires thru. Notice I had taken the column apart, it made it much easier to get the wires thru


These are the carrage head type bolts that hold the end on


Here you can see the nut on the bolt that holds the end on, now I was putting the screws in to hold the "cone" on to the end.


Hazard knob (notice it is a 68 TS switch)

push switch in lining up the lever area with the support hole in the column

Then you can put the screws in

then the lever and tighten


This dot on the stock sterring wheel lines up with a line on the shaft


There is also a pin in the TS cancel cam that lines up with a groove in the wheel


Then you can plug it in!

Hope this helps a little
 
Last edited by a moderator:

RustyRed

Active Member
"Sluggo" said:
Mid can probably come up with some connectors for you.
I'd be happy to solder them up for you and help you with the horns and lights.

One thing to check on the parklight coming on when the brake is applied is you bulb usage out back.

Classic symptom of a single filament bulb in a dual filament socket or vice versa. It could also be a flasher.

The horns could be bad or need to be adjusted. The first thing to do is see if there is power at the horn when you push the button.
I found the connectors. Mustang Mania over in Katy has them on a parts car and will give them to me for $15. The last place I check with a while back wanted $80 so I obviously told them no thanks.

I am running the sequential LED's on the back along with the flasher they provide with the LED's but I had that same park light problem before putting in the LED's.

The horns are new. When I bought the car about a year ago it had one cheap plastic thing on it. So I purchased a new high and low pitch horns and put them on. The headlight wire harness is also new just in case you wondered...the old one was getting so bad that I barely touched a wire one time changing a head light and it broke.

I may need to check my engine to firewall ground strap also but I should be able to get it figured out. I did find out that O'Reily's will let you borrow a wheel puller....one of those deals where you give them a $50 deposit and they give you the money back when you bring the puller back.

O' by the way...someone asked...the Mustang drives and I am in the Spring / Woodlands area.
 

RustyRed

Active Member
Hey tarafied...just got a second (finally) to look at the post and that will help a lot.

Mine being a '66 has some minor differences but it is the same basic concept.

I spoke with Mustang Mania this morning and they are shipping out the connector deal today so it should be here tomorrow via UPS ground since I am just on the other side of town from them.

Might shoot for doing the trade out this coming weekend depending on if I can wrap up a different project this week related to cleaning up some of the underside pieces of my car.
 

RustyRed

Active Member
Hi guys,

Thanks again for the help on this.

Past weekend I finally got the wheel off, the new switch in and the wheel put back on.

Now I just need to get to the wiring under the dash but I have studied it some and that doesn't look hard.

One less thing on the "to do" list now.
 
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