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Welding question

Fst Blk

Well-Known Member
Ok, so I was trying to weld in the upper cowl. I was watching my regulator and noticed that I was losing pressure because I was almost out of shielding gas. I tried to hurry and finish up my last few welds. In the process, I notice that my welds are alot hotter (of course), but they are alot flatter also. I was running about 5 psi at that time. So, it got me to thinking about what psi I should be running while welding. If my welds look better at 5 psi instead of 25 psi (recommended by the guy at the gas company), what does that tell me. I using 75/25 argon/co2.

Bill
 
Its not a one size fits all answer... All's you need is enough flow to keep the weld puddle protected. I run mine at 10-12 PSI in my garage, but if the door is open with a light breeze, then I have to bump it up. The only time I've ever run up in that range was welding outdoors on a very windy day.
 
It pays to experiment with different pressures. I agree that i tend to be around 15 psi. I also noticed a pretty good improvement when i switched to stargon. 90/8/2 - argon/co2/o2
 
You need to adjust the gas for each wire side. Most people crank it up too much or don't reset it as the tank empties or when they change wire size. The weld tells the story and for me I try not only to have a good looking weld, but to keep that "blue halo" about three times (or more) the distance from the weld width. That is the sign good penetration........(ha,ha).
 
"tarafied1" said:
Thanks. Ive only used .030" on mine but wanting to experiment with smaller diameter.

You were using .023 at my house.

I think I will play with it when I get my tank filled. The only thing I noticed was my welds were a little more porous with the 5 psi or cfm or whatever measurement it is lol.

Bill
 
"Horseplay" said:
Too bad you can't weld on a water pump, huh?

Stop it, I can't afford the new electronics! Besides, there are zero leaks on this motor.

Besides, a potentially wiped lobe or lifter does not make the WP leak!
 
"silverblueBP" said:
Stop it, I can't afford the new electronics! Besides, there are zero leaks on this motor.

Besides, a potentially wiped lobe or lifter does not make the WP leak!
No, but the wiped lobe can cause the owner of the engine to weep...
 
Weeping issues? Just wear depends.

But seriously, Johnny of Opentracker convinced me to go with .023 wire, even on the thick stuff. :thu
 
Beside welding water pumps, what's the benefit of .023"?
Ive heard it recommended and want to switch over. It worked well on Bill's car but i welded my car with .030" and not really sure i could tell the difference. Also i have been making all my filler necks with .030"
 
Get you some .023" wire and compare them, you'll stay with the .023". It's been so long since I used .030", I honestly can't remember what it's like, but when I did compare them (some 15 years ago), I liked the .023" best. I still have a roll of .030", but haven't used it since before I added the gas (again, some 15 yrs ago).
 
I've got the Lincoln Powermig 180c, I use .025 on sheet metal and .030 on the heavier stuff. Smaller 110V welders probably dont have much use for the .030.
 
I use the .023 wire on the cars. There is no real thick stuff on them. I don't have a farm or work on heavy equipment so the small wire works good for what I do.

I like my little 135 for thin sheet metal because it's easier to control with the dial in heat settings, it's not a 4 position. Plus it moves around the shop and will plug into any outlet. The 220V welder is what I use most but it cost a lot more and it has to stay in one spot.
 
My welder is a 22 year old 110V i bought from Eastwood to do my quarters and floorboards. I think i bought a huge spool of .030" and never tried anything else.
 
My mig came with the .030 wire. I tried a few welds and then got some .023. It along with the change to 75/25 and an auto darkening helmet made the difference for me... not that I'm good by any stretch.

Bill
 
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