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What did you get done on your Stang today????

"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
finally got around to assembling my pedal assembly after the rebuild from the fire damage. i did change the clutch pedal to my own rollerized 'kit" prchased from tractor supply for a whopping $6. also had the rebuild kits arrive today for the clutch master & slave cyl, so rebuilt those as well.

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Steve,
Is that the brake pedal you made for PB?
 
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Got the 4 speed out of the car. Once I removed the bellhousing, it was obvious where all the oil was coming from. The front of the trans and back of the BH was heavily coated with gear oil. Skippy is sending me his DVD and specialty tools he used when he rebuilt the TL in his Mach. I did remove the top cover and check the gears, they all seem to be OK.

I saw that David Kee has a road race rebuild kit. I'll check into that tomorrow.
 
"tarafied1" said:
Steve,
Is that the brake pedal you made for PB?
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yeah, thats the one that was already done & ready to go in the car before the fire got it. ended up only having to purchase new rubber pads for the pedals & a couple of the plastic bushings for the brake pedal.
 
Today I won my bid for some 2 1/2 backing plates. I have been searching off and on for 2 years now. I need to give credit where credit is due. Sam was helpful in my quest with his web page http://mustangsandmore.com//ubb/RearBrakesbySamGriffith.html The backing plates that I found came off of an early Bronco. After I receive them I can start collecting brake parts. Then after that assemble my rear end. The chunk that I had rebuilt a few years ago will finally get installed and off of my work bench. :yah

fd
 
Today finally finished the correct PCV setup on the car. Went from inlet directly into carb base to a inlet into the spacer base (new carb. had no inlet) and got the 3/8" to 1/2" hose issue solved.

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Got it raised high enough to lay under safely so I could rig my temp. side exh. (they're test fit and sticking out too far I know). Once I'm on the road I'm switching to a full length exh. and maybe some cutouts. I can now properly measure for my driveshaft length also. The old 14" steelies came in handy again (used em first like this on the DD Miata I picked up).
Jon
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1. I tapped the thermostat housing and relocated the electric fan sensor there... now I can finally adjust the fan activation temp somewhere near the actual thermostat range. Before I had it located in the bottom drivers-side corner. It was an exercise in futility to match up the range at that location.

2. I also got the Autometer electronic speedo working with the VSS. I read somewhere on the Internet that the ECU didn't provide enough ground with the VSS- wire in order to drive the speedo. I highly doubted the fix, but I had no other choice. I spliced in a ground to the chassis and it worked!!!!!

3. I added a "power point" to the engine bay. Since I relocated the battery and solenoid to the trunk, there were no accessible places to hook a timing light.

4. Still having intermittent idle issues. I've tried all the normal fixes, base idle reset, adjust timing etc... I'm going to hook the code reader up to it and see what she says.

-Shannon
 
"Jonk67" said:
Got it raised high enough to lay under safely so I could rig my temp. side exh. (they're test fit and sticking out too far I know). Once I'm on the road I'm switching to a full length exh. and maybe some cutouts. I can now properly measure for my driveshaft length also. The old 14" steelies came in handy again (used em first like this on the DD Miata I picked up).
Jon
IMG_0031.jpg
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How close to firing up that baby Jon?
 
I'm trying my best Craig, if I can get some pipes rigged and a driveshaft measured/ordered, make sure I've got enough wiring done to get juice to the starter/alt I should be ready. Won't be able to drive it anywhere but if I can break it in it will really push me to get done.

Seems everytime I try to sneak a few hours in the garage the wife pulls the 'we don't spend any time toghether' routine, then complains that my car is not done and hers is outside in the cold....why didn't someone tell me women were this way before I got married? :rulz
 
Today was one of those days that look like small potatoes to an outside observer, but to the car owner it was a breakthrough. My rebuild of a 30-over 5.0 -- an engine that I'd bought way back in June '07 -- had stalled over the incompatibility of a set of breather inserts, a breather cap, and a PCV valve that I'd bought in September '07. Even though they were all the same brand -- Wysco -- neither the breather cap nor the PCV valve would fit into the inserts. Worse yet, after I had turned down the male part of the breather cap to where it would fit, using a drill press and a file no less, I found that the male part of the PCV valve was a different size than the breather cap. In fact the inside diamater of the PCV's male part was larger than the diameter of the female breather insert. Insert, breather, and PCV, all of the same Made in China brand, each with a different diameter, and none of them compatible with the other.

My solution was to use some K&N breathers and forget about the PCV valve. Even this solution required me to cut down the pair of O-rings inside the the breather inserts. Here's a pic of all this stuff:

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I also cleaned up a $50 Craigslist Carter AFB carb I bought last November. The ponies on the nameplate are perfect for a Mustang, aren't they?

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Yeah, it's silly to put the "good" valve covers, the headers, and the carb and air cleaner on an engine that's going to have to be craned into a car before it'll ever run, but I had to do it. This photo was basically 4.5 years in the making:

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"Jonk67" said:
....why didn't someone tell me women were this way before I got married? :rulz
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:confu

Let me know if you do get some time and I'd love to come over and help
 
Spent a couple of hours today practicing my welding. Felt like I was doing pretty well when I got the metal super clean. I'm finding that is very difficult to do on these old welds I'm trying to clean up. I need to go searching for some better wire wheels. I also ground down some of the old welds and found that I have no idea how to grind in tight corners. My grinder has its limits for where it will go. Anyone have any thoughts for tight spaces?
 
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