Larry G
Member
Sounds like it's coming along. What controller are you gonna use?
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What did you get done on your Stang today????
- Thread starter cmayna
- Start date
DougG69
Member
"Larry G" said:
I went with the Baumann/US Shift "Quick 1" controller.
http://www.usshift.com/
Also installed the Baumann ReCal Pro valve body kit, and got a custom converter from Circle D.
Larry G
Member
I'm using US Shift controller also, nice product with a lot programming possibilities.
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Larry G
Member
This is where I installed mine.
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janschutz
Corn Hauler
Found the electrical short. The ignition switch was fried. It was an original 46 year old Autolight switch.
I'm willing to bet the new replacement won't last that long!"janschutz" said:
DougG69
Member
Got the TPS installed on the carb.
Got all the wiring done except for the 3 wires that hook up to the TPS. 20 minute project tomorrow. Need to tuck/tape/loom the wiring for a cleaner installation.
Got the cooler mocked up but not mounted. Got one cooler line made, one to go.
Tomorrow is a big day. Have to finish the lines, mount/hook up the cooler, clean up the wiring, modify the TSS to work with the speedo cable, fill the tranny up with fluid, calibrate the TPS, test the transmission, reinstall the seats & console and then if all goes well wash/wax/polish.
Luckily I have the day off :beer
Got all the wiring done except for the 3 wires that hook up to the TPS. 20 minute project tomorrow. Need to tuck/tape/loom the wiring for a cleaner installation.
Got the cooler mocked up but not mounted. Got one cooler line made, one to go.
Tomorrow is a big day. Have to finish the lines, mount/hook up the cooler, clean up the wiring, modify the TSS to work with the speedo cable, fill the tranny up with fluid, calibrate the TPS, test the transmission, reinstall the seats & console and then if all goes well wash/wax/polish.
Luckily I have the day off :beer
DougG69
Member
"Larry G" said:
That's pretty slick!
I have the seat belt holders since mine's a 69, but I'll have to look into it more when I have more time. For now I think I'm just going to tuck it between the seat and the tranny hump so I can get to it easily while I dial things in initially.
Spent more than a few hours today finishing up installation of torque boxes. I bought the three piece versions for 67/68 as they are supposedly more "heavy duty". What a pain in the butt. Lots of trimming and bending and cursing to get them fit. But they are in now. Later tonight and/or tomorrow I weld in the Tinman subframe connectors. Plan is to get all this completed so I can shoot over it with 2K primer again and follow that up with Raptor liner by the end of next week.
You are a busy boy. :thum
DougG69
Member
6-27:
Worked on the car until about 1 a.m. Friday night.
Got my new shifter handle installed.
Ran into an issue - the car wouldn't start. Turned out to be a problem with the range sensor on the transmission. Thought it was bad or I had messed some wiring up (neutral safety switch), but it just needed adjustment, plus the linkage needed dialed in a bit, which fixed it. Scared me for a bit though...
Got the cooler lines in. No leaks!
We got some transmission fluid in her and were able to fire it up & run the car through the gears on the lift to work the fluid through. Rear tires turned! Have reverse lights
Called it a night.
6-28:
Started in again around 8:30 this morning.
Got my new Auto console insert installed in the console. Got the console reinstalled. Also got a shifter boot from Classic Consoles on there since neither the factory 69 bezel nor the 98 Mustang bezel will fit for my setup. Looks good (IMO) with the 98 Mustang shifter (with billet T-handle)/69 console combo.
Verified my O/D lockout button at least turns on the light to indicate O/D has been disabled. Will have to verify with a test drive.
Got the cooler mounting/support brackets painted and installed.
Reinstalled my seats.
Cleaned & oiled my K&N air filter.
Changed oil.
All that remains is to top off the tranny fluid and take a test drive.
Worked on the car until about 1 a.m. Friday night.
Got my new shifter handle installed.
Ran into an issue - the car wouldn't start. Turned out to be a problem with the range sensor on the transmission. Thought it was bad or I had messed some wiring up (neutral safety switch), but it just needed adjustment, plus the linkage needed dialed in a bit, which fixed it. Scared me for a bit though...
Got the cooler lines in. No leaks!
We got some transmission fluid in her and were able to fire it up & run the car through the gears on the lift to work the fluid through. Rear tires turned! Have reverse lights
Called it a night.
6-28:
Started in again around 8:30 this morning.
Got my new Auto console insert installed in the console. Got the console reinstalled. Also got a shifter boot from Classic Consoles on there since neither the factory 69 bezel nor the 98 Mustang bezel will fit for my setup. Looks good (IMO) with the 98 Mustang shifter (with billet T-handle)/69 console combo.
Verified my O/D lockout button at least turns on the light to indicate O/D has been disabled. Will have to verify with a test drive.
Got the cooler mounting/support brackets painted and installed.
Reinstalled my seats.
Cleaned & oiled my K&N air filter.
Changed oil.
All that remains is to top off the tranny fluid and take a test drive.
68EFIvert
Well-Known Member
I finally finished rewiring the car. I used an AAW harness and I have to say it was pretty easy for a novice. The questions I had I was able to reach them and clarify. I have another one of their harnesses for my Volvo build and it looks to be even easier due to the design of the Highway series harnesses.
I think I may have found the source of my wiring problems. I had a continuous draw that I couldn't find. Toward the end I coun't get the car to start. I think that was the peak of my frustrations with the car. I decided to take the car apart and fix everything I wish I would have done differently, wanted to improve or just did not like.
One of thoses projects was to replace the inline fuel pump (Aeromotive A1000) for an intank pump. I ended up using one from Tanks Inc. Very nice quality, great value and simple install. While I was at it I put in a fuel breather to eliminate the smell of gas in the garage.
Anyways, back to the wiring. Finished it yesterday to the point where I could try to start the car and it fired right up. I think my problem could have been with the fuel pump. What a relief! :yah
I have a couple items left on the to-do list and hope to have them done in the next couple weeks. I have ordered some fog lights and a grill from Rich at Mustangs to Fear, new JRI shocks and springs and finally to replace the Ford computer system with one from Megasquirt.
I think I may have found the source of my wiring problems. I had a continuous draw that I couldn't find. Toward the end I coun't get the car to start. I think that was the peak of my frustrations with the car. I decided to take the car apart and fix everything I wish I would have done differently, wanted to improve or just did not like.
One of thoses projects was to replace the inline fuel pump (Aeromotive A1000) for an intank pump. I ended up using one from Tanks Inc. Very nice quality, great value and simple install. While I was at it I put in a fuel breather to eliminate the smell of gas in the garage.
Anyways, back to the wiring. Finished it yesterday to the point where I could try to start the car and it fired right up. I think my problem could have been with the fuel pump. What a relief! :yah
I have a couple items left on the to-do list and hope to have them done in the next couple weeks. I have ordered some fog lights and a grill from Rich at Mustangs to Fear, new JRI shocks and springs and finally to replace the Ford computer system with one from Megasquirt.
DougG69
Member
Got the tranny fluid topped off this morning.
Worked on hiding the wiring under the center console (and modifying the console per LarryG's excellent suggestion) & messed with the carb since it was sprinkling early.
Finally got to take it for a quick little test drive around the block a few times right before I had to leave for work this afternoon. 1-2 upshift is nice & firm under part throttle! Didn't get going fast enough in town to test 2-3 or 3-4 shifts.
Got a little off-idle rattle under there somewhere that we need to track down.
Also looks like I'll have to revisit the timing and set up the carb again due to the auto dragging the idle down in gear & affecting the vacuum - and therefore the vacuum advance (and initial timing) - since I'm using manifold vacuuum for that. Ugh. May have to break down & install the programmable MSD box I've had sitting around for the last year or so... unless I can modify the dizzy bushing that limits mechanical advance. Hmmm.
About 95% done though. Hopefully.
Worked on hiding the wiring under the center console (and modifying the console per LarryG's excellent suggestion) & messed with the carb since it was sprinkling early.
Finally got to take it for a quick little test drive around the block a few times right before I had to leave for work this afternoon. 1-2 upshift is nice & firm under part throttle! Didn't get going fast enough in town to test 2-3 or 3-4 shifts.
Got a little off-idle rattle under there somewhere that we need to track down.
Also looks like I'll have to revisit the timing and set up the carb again due to the auto dragging the idle down in gear & affecting the vacuum - and therefore the vacuum advance (and initial timing) - since I'm using manifold vacuuum for that. Ugh. May have to break down & install the programmable MSD box I've had sitting around for the last year or so... unless I can modify the dizzy bushing that limits mechanical advance. Hmmm.
About 95% done though. Hopefully.
DougG69
Member
Slow day today. Ordered some parts to have on hand for the MSD swap: vacuum advance lockout & MAP sensor connector - the connector on the MSD wiring doesn't work with the 1-bar sensor.
Also got the transmission controller tucked neatly away. Yes I need to replace those nasty rusted screws in the belt holder cup.
Also got the transmission controller tucked neatly away. Yes I need to replace those nasty rusted screws in the belt holder cup.
Drumr90
Member
Took rest of stuff off cowel so i can remove it. I went to take off heater box and lossened the bolt one turn and box dropped. I guese the rust is pretty bad. Then pulled of fresh air vent on drivers side to find rats nest filling it up. Lol. Barn kept cars are intersting some times.
Well I didn't get as much done as I had wanted by this point but did manage a few items off the to do list. My son got an unexpected opportunity to have a few days leave so he flew home for the weekend. Hadn't seen him in six months.
Sub-frame connectors are in. New headliner installed (damn, rodent!). Rear glass in place*.
*What a pain in the arse. I had never set glass in any of my previous cars. First time event for me. In my usual manner, I had spent plenty of time over thinking the process and steps I would take. Things were going great until it wouldn't seat properly. Original glass in original car (no new metal) had me cursing. And covered in goo. After some guidance and persuasion to get the seal over/under the trim clips she finally gave in.
After cleaning up the front windshield I decided to buy a new one. Both pieces of glass are original and the front, while crack free etc., has decades of road blasting done to it and the surface feels like very fine sand paper. I just know I would not be happy with it long term. Going to try and find a new one local this week and get it in.
After I get the front glass installed I plan to roll it outside for its first bath since paint. It's presently covered in a couple years worth of grinder dust and garage grime.
Sub-frame connectors are in. New headliner installed (damn, rodent!). Rear glass in place*.
*What a pain in the arse. I had never set glass in any of my previous cars. First time event for me. In my usual manner, I had spent plenty of time over thinking the process and steps I would take. Things were going great until it wouldn't seat properly. Original glass in original car (no new metal) had me cursing. And covered in goo. After some guidance and persuasion to get the seal over/under the trim clips she finally gave in.
After cleaning up the front windshield I decided to buy a new one. Both pieces of glass are original and the front, while crack free etc., has decades of road blasting done to it and the surface feels like very fine sand paper. I just know I would not be happy with it long term. Going to try and find a new one local this week and get it in.
After I get the front glass installed I plan to roll it outside for its first bath since paint. It's presently covered in a couple years worth of grinder dust and garage grime.
DougG69
Member
Haven't swapped the MSD box yet. Had a friend help weld up a spare bushing over the weekend so I could limit the mechanical advance in the dizzy to 12*, allowing me to run more initial and still be OK on the total. Will still do the swap eventually but this buys time.
Test drove the car briefly over the weekend. Trans never shifted to OD, and the OD lockout button did not appear to work (indicator light did not light up). Might not have been going fast enough to engage OD (55-60) with the default calibration?
Today I took my console back out & tracked down the OD switch malfunction to the OD button itself. Had to disassemble shifter & button & re-solder wires to contact points on button. Tested. Reinstalled console, reassembled shifter & OD button assembly and re-tested. Success!
Need to customize the shift points etc. by interfacing laptop with controller & calibrating properly. Also need to fab up a switch to control toggle between calibrations (cruising vs performance).
Test drove the car briefly over the weekend. Trans never shifted to OD, and the OD lockout button did not appear to work (indicator light did not light up). Might not have been going fast enough to engage OD (55-60) with the default calibration?
Today I took my console back out & tracked down the OD switch malfunction to the OD button itself. Had to disassemble shifter & button & re-solder wires to contact points on button. Tested. Reinstalled console, reassembled shifter & OD button assembly and re-tested. Success!
Need to customize the shift points etc. by interfacing laptop with controller & calibrating properly. Also need to fab up a switch to control toggle between calibrations (cruising vs performance).
DougG69
Member
Got a little more debugging done today.
I had been having an issue with late/harsh shifts, and the speed on the controller display was about half of what my in-dash speedo was indicating.
I was able to take a drive and stop & adjust the calibration a few times & got things nice and smooth @ lower speed/throttle. I do have OD now.
Also, I just got an answer from Baumann tech support about the speed display issue - apparently I'm plugged into the sensor in the transmission tailhousing and need to be plugged into the OSS (Output Shaft Speed) sensor in the main case... that's my bad. At work right now but it's a 5 minute fix tomorrow if you include putting the car up on the lift.
I had been having an issue with late/harsh shifts, and the speed on the controller display was about half of what my in-dash speedo was indicating.
I was able to take a drive and stop & adjust the calibration a few times & got things nice and smooth @ lower speed/throttle. I do have OD now.
Also, I just got an answer from Baumann tech support about the speed display issue - apparently I'm plugged into the sensor in the transmission tailhousing and need to be plugged into the OSS (Output Shaft Speed) sensor in the main case... that's my bad. At work right now but it's a 5 minute fix tomorrow if you include putting the car up on the lift.
Fast68back
Guest
Where is the video?