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Which Motor mounts......

TCP mounts = $140+

Regular old parts store OEM style mounts = $30


Plus, the TCP mounts offer very little insulation.... they're one step away from a solid mount.
 
Dear Mrs. Sanborn,
Please give David a spanking for being so right. I'm sick and tired of it.

:rofl
 
Whatever you do, if you're going to use stock mounts, test fit the mounts to the frame mounts before trying to drop an engine in.

A vast majority of the motor mounts out there now seem to be made wrong. The "dog ears" aren't bent right making the holes not line up with the holes in the frame mount. I've run into this with the last 2 engines I've helped install. The fix is to use a uni-bit and make the holes larger on the motor mounts, but if you're not expecting that, and have an engine dangling from a cherry picker, it can be EXTREMELY frustrating trying to figure out why you can't get that friggin engine in, when you've had no problems a million times before.

When you have your motor mounts, set them in the car, and stick the long bolt into place to make sure they will work. If they don't, adjust the holes until they do.
 
As far as I know, there is only one company making factory replacement mounts: Anchor. They're so-so quality, and I've had the same problem getting the holes to line up. I usually end up slotting the holes in the mount a bit.

I'd recommend either some Lakewood high-durometer mounts or Ron Morris or TCP mounts. I went through a set of factory mounts in less than 30k mi and I don't have as much torque as you're going to get with a cleveland.
 
"Fast68back" said:
But they do offer a little adjustability.
Click to expand...

There's a set out there, similar in appearance to the TCP that has alot of adjustability.
I didn't need adjustability and considered that to add weakness to the design.
The TCPs have a very hard plastic bushing in them so yes, they are almost like being solid.
I've got a torque-monster under the hood so I wanted the strongest mount I could get.
My car is very streetable but does have a nice cam in it.
I don't find the vibration bad at all, but I was really going for 60% racecar, 40% streetcar concept anyway...loud, fast, nasty.
 
"Starfury" said:
I'd recommend either some Lakewood high-durometer mounts or Ron Morris or TCP mounts. I went through a set of factory mounts in less than 30k mi and I don't have as much torque as you're going to get with a cleveland.
Click to expand...

You probably had a bad mount to begin with. I have 28k on my 408 right now with about 30 passes at the drag strip. No problems with my stock mounts so far (of course now they'll break next weekend after saying that *LOL*).
 
Seemed pretty good when I put them in, and didn't really have an issues until shortly before I replaced them. The design is pretty crappy and prone to complete separation.
 
For a little bit of extra insurance, what if you just drill and bolt the mount plates together to keep them from separating?
 
That's easy on the '65 style mounts, but not so much on the '67+ mounts. You'd have to drill a hole through the frame bracket as well, and getting to the undersite of that isn't the easiest thing in the world.
 
Actually my original motor mounts from Shag are looking pretty good. Sand blasted the brackets last night and can't believe how nice the insulators are still, but being pretty old I might just replace the insulators anyways.

Has anyone seen my mount to block bolts? Not very organized for this resto project.
 
If they are original Ford motor mounts, and the rubber looks good, then just go for it!
 
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