1967 Shelby GT500

[GPR]

A good friend of mine owns this rust free 1967 Shelby GT500 that came from California. He finally decided he wanted us to paint it after he had owned it awhile.

This is what we started with.

I used a razor blade to strip off the blue paint which is not the original color.

 

[GPR]

I stripped the hood and found a few imperfections and cracks around the scoop. I used panel adhesive on the cracks.

I epoxy primed with SPI epoxy

 

[Johnny M]

Rusty,
So you scrapped off the old paint back to the original primer?

No rust on the body?

What colour are you going to repaint it?

Sweet work.....

 

[GPR]

Rusty,
So you scrapped off the old paint back to the original primer?

No rust on the body?

What colour are you going to repaint it?

Sweet work.....

I scraped the blue off than used a DA with 80 grit sanding to bare metal and there is no rust. That is not the original primer it was green under the primer. It will be painted green.

 

[70_Fastback]

Just curious, but why did you scrape it first to begin with since you ended up DA'ing it anyway? Would you have potentially caused too much heat cutting that blue?

 

[stangg]

Just curious, but why did you scrape it first to begin with since you ended up DA'ing it anyway? Would you have potentially caused too much heat cutting that blue?

I'm guessing the blue paint was an acrylic enamel ... maybe something else, but nonetheless once you get a razor blade or even a putty knife under that paint you can practically peel it off in sheets. Two of us stripped a nova in about 2-3 hours doing it just like Rusty showed. It would have taken a lot longer and much dustier to do it with any type of sander. Not sure, but I think acrylic enamel paint jobs were pretty popular back in the late 70's early 80's.

 

[GPR]

Just curious, but why did you scrape it first to begin with since you ended up DA'ing it anyway? Would you have potentially caused too much heat cutting that blue?

It's faster and like you said less heat and razor blades are a lot cheaper than a roll of 6" stick it DA paper. If you can get it down to the primer it is a lot easier to sand. I always try a razor blade first but it doesn't always work but it did in this case.

 

[GPR]

I sanded it down to bare metal than Brian taped off the undercarriage since it was already restored by the owner.

Sprayed 2 coats of SPI epoxy primer next step is the bodywork.

 

[GPR]

The back side of this Shelby hood is supposed to be black and has a rough finish. When it was painted years ago they painted it blue. I used stripper for fiberglass stripping small areas at a time with a small wire brush.

After I was finished I washed it a few times and let it sit in the sun. After a few days I epoxy primed.

The surface was very rough after the wire brush so I used a red scuff pad to smooth it out and applied 2 more coats of SPI black epoxy.

 

[GPR]

Bodywork is almost finished on the body

 

[GPR]

I finished the bodywork than sprayed a coat of SPI black epoxy.

I waited a couple of hours than sprayed 2 coats of Evercoat Slick Sand

 

[fordrule]

wowsers

 

[GPR]

I started block sanding with 80 than 180 almost ready for more primer

 

[GPR]

I painted the back side of the deck lid yesterday. It is hard to get a good picture showing the true color.

 

[GPR]

Block sanding finished all cleaned and ready for epoxy

Two more coats of epoxy

 

[RapidRabbit]

I like that green. :thu

 

[GPR]

We attached the seal to the deck lid before I painted the other side

I sprayed a coat of reduced epoxy as a sealer now sand out any dirt with 800 and they are ready for paint

 

[GPR]

I sprayed green today and tomorrow will clear.

 

[Fast68back]

Love it!!

 

[dodgestang]

Actually has made me start getting estimates for paint on the 67