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1970 Boss 302 Street/Touring Build Blog

Discussion in 'Member's Build Threads' started by swpruett, Jun 26, 2012.

  1. swpruett

    swpruett Member

    Hello all,

    I just wanted to take a minute to invite anyone who may be interested to my 1970 Boss 302 build blog. I've owned the car for almost 30 years and I am one of the few owners who is crazy enough to modify and improve my car rather than get hung up in the "restore-it-to-concours-and sell-it-at-Barrett-Jackson" genre.

    Anyway, I hope you might find some time to have a look and perhaps find something of interest. Lemme know what you think!



    Sven Pruett
  2. tarafied1

    tarafied1 Well-Known Member

    cool stuff :thu
  3. swpruett

    swpruett Member

    Thanks! Hope you can stop by often!

    And I LOVE your sig picture!
  4. lethal289

    lethal289 Active Member

    Great Blog, thanks for sharing.
  5. swpruett

    swpruett Member

  6. swpruett

    swpruett Member

  7. swpruett

    swpruett Member

  8. Fast68back

    Fast68back Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

    Nice write up!
  9. DougG69

    DougG69 Member

    Nice review.

    It's not helping my jones for a newer Mustang though :weas

  10. AzPete

    AzPete Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

    The one thing many have found is the adjustment to the shifting pattern/closeness. It took me a while to get comfortable with it. When I left the dealer, I thought I had forgot how to drive a manual....and the trade in was a manual too...lol Now, it is as smooth as anything and I always check that the high speed shifting is smooth.

    There are some issues with the shifter and/or the manual transmissions but not enough to cause one to avoid them.
  11. Anonymous

    Anonymous Guest

    I think I might sell the 66 and get a Laguna Seca version.
  12. AzPete

    AzPete Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

    Well.....that would be a true test if the engine would blow.......or should I say when.....
  13. swpruett

    swpruett Member

  14. 65-408

    65-408 Member

    What spherical rod ends you used to upgrade the 4-link kit? do you have the manufacturer and PN's available? Also, I'm curious as to what led you to the conclusion that the kit coil-overs were not great?
  15. swpruett

    swpruett Member

    The rod ends I used were QA1's sourced from Summit. The part numbers I used were: HAL-XML10-12, HAL-XMR-10-12, HAL-XML8-10 and HAL-XMR8-10 with the appropriate jam nuts.

    As for the MANY issues with the 4-link kit, where do I start? Axle brackets wouldn't fit a stock '70 9" axle housing (they made this right in the end by making "custom" brackets), shocks that were pitiful junk and one even leaked before ever seeing installation, unbelieveable amounts of severe roll bind, upper coilover mount holes off 1/8" from one side to the other, etc., etc. It's hard to believe more people that own this setup haven't had similar complaints. Or perhaps they just don't sell that many and therefore you don't hear much. In any case, I am much happier with what I ended up putting together.
  16. 65-408

    65-408 Member

    Can you explain the roll bind, not familiar with that term. Guessing it is as it sounds, binding as the car rolls due to the rubber link mounts. I'm assuming that is why you added the rod ends?
  17. swpruett

    swpruett Member

    :thu You have it. One way to exemplify the phenomenon is to put the car up on stands with the suspension at full droop. Remove the springs from the coilovers and reinstall the dampers so the droop is limited naturally by the damper and there is a compression limit there as well. Now, in theory, you should be able to pull up the suspension on one side to full bump with a minimal effect on the opposite side. This would represent the extremes of full roll of the rear suspension and demonstrate minimal roll bind.

    High roll bind would be recognized in this same test as lifting the entire rear axle assembly almost evenly from only one side. In other words, by lifting only the left side (for example), the right side would be lifted as well and usually with great effort. This is because the typical rubber bushed trailing links have a very minimal degree of freedom in axial twist. Rod ends solve most all of this problem.

    Trailing link geometry can still cause a certain level of bind depending on length differences between the upper and lower links and angular relationship to eachother. This is common when trying to dial-in anti-squat geometry as a function of bringing the instant center of the two arms within the wheelbase.

    Instant center is the convergent point in space where the upper and lower trailing link centerlines meet. Most 4-link street suspensions have the trailing links parallel for street ride comfort and no binding. However, these suspensions tend to squat heavily on launch or heavy corner exit acceleration and that is rather undesirable as well. Always a compromise it seems.

    Hope this helps!
  18. buening

    buening Active Member

    Excellent work! Maybe you should start making your own brackets and sell them? :thu
  19. swpruett

    swpruett Member

    Thanks! I have to tell you, after the experiences I have had with this, the thought of doing a proper kit with these mods already in place has crossed my mind more than once!
  20. buening

    buening Active Member

    Or at the very least, maybe take some dimensions and draw them up in CAD for others to build their own (as I did with the motor mounts).

    I may have missed it but what front suspension did you go with?

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