66gt350
Active Member
the '70 up C4's are the most desired. They have a different valve body and a larger input shaft. A properly built C4 can take a lot of punishment.
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88 5.0
- Thread starter jmbour66
- Start date
sigtauenus
Active Member
I kept the roller cam and lifters in my 89 5.0 in my car, but bolted on 289 heads, intake and carb. Actually, the only thing specific to the 5.0 is the short block, flywheel, and a 5.0 balancer with 3 bolt holes for the early pulley. Everything else is vintage parts.
The lifter bores on the 5.0 roller blocks are taller than the pre '85 blocks. The stock Ford roller lifter won't work in earlier blocks... plus there probably isn't any provisions to install the spider retainer. You would probably need to go with aftermarket roller lifters.
sigtauenus
Active Member
You lost me here.
Why would you be buying any internal parts? I thought the engine was just rebuilt?
Why would you be buying any internal parts? I thought the engine was just rebuilt?
"sigtauenus" said:
Sorry. The 88 5.0 is rebuilt but not installed. The Car right now has the original engine installed, but has a flat spot on the cam, so I was trying to take the "easy" way out by leaving the original 302 in place and "converting" it to a roller cam etc. by using the parts from the rebuilt 5.0.
In the end, I know I'll be happy with the Transplant but I'm a little nervous heading into it!
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Transplants are easy....just ask for any info on here and you will be done before you know it.
66gt350
Active Member
Just one more thing not to forget: Depending on what roller cam is in the engine, you'll probably have a different firing order than your original 302.
66gt350
Active Member
It don't matter if it's a C4 or T-5. The car will run just fine. With a carb, that's a nice cam.
If you ever go to efi, then it will be time to ditch that cam. That cam results in the dreaded idle surge. It's just radical enough that the stock computer can't compensate. It will run rich then lean then rich then lean...etc...going from 1500 rpms down to 500-600. It will finally drop down far enough to die. That's the cam that I have in my fastback, and it took a long time messing with the computer to get it to idle and not stall at stop lights!!
If you ever go to efi, then it will be time to ditch that cam. That cam results in the dreaded idle surge. It's just radical enough that the stock computer can't compensate. It will run rich then lean then rich then lean...etc...going from 1500 rpms down to 500-600. It will finally drop down far enough to die. That's the cam that I have in my fastback, and it took a long time messing with the computer to get it to idle and not stall at stop lights!!
AzPete
Well-Known Member
After market torque converter only if you want a higher stall speed....
The only difference I see in cams for auto vs manual would be in the vacuum they allow the engine to produce. To low and it could effect the vacuum modulator on the C4. Not sure what number that would be....
The only difference I see in cams for auto vs manual would be in the vacuum they allow the engine to produce. To low and it could effect the vacuum modulator on the C4. Not sure what number that would be....
Thanks to everyone for helping me get through this, I get more excited about the transplant all the time!
Is there any way to tell if I need a 157 tooth Flex Plate vs a 167, short of pulling the transmission?
The engine has the correct reverse rotation water pump, but was set up to use an electric fuel pump, am I better of switching timing covers and adding the eccentric, or going electric?
Is there any way to tell if I need a 157 tooth Flex Plate vs a 167, short of pulling the transmission?
The engine has the correct reverse rotation water pump, but was set up to use an electric fuel pump, am I better of switching timing covers and adding the eccentric, or going electric?
AzPete
Well-Known Member
I would say the less you pull of the running engine, the better....unless you really don't want to go elec. I have had both and you must mount the elec. on rubber to eliminate as much as the noise as possible. Mechanical are easier to change. Elec. provide some security if you wire them thru a toggle switch, replacements are about the same availability....what you need is not the one they have in stock.
"66gt350" said:
I have the e303 on my modified EFI 331 motor with a bone stock A9L tune... About the only time I have anything remotely close to a surge is when it is first fired up after sitting for a while. Mine idles fine with the 331, cobra intake, afr heads, 1.7 roller rockers, headers, 30# injectors, 70mm MAF, Professional Products 70MM throttle body, stock O2 sensors. You might want to check your air idle control valve. Mine initially had an issue, but once I ported the opening on the throttlebody to match the AIC, the surging issue cleared up.
Hi everybody,
I'm still pulling my hair out regarding the Flex-Plate for my C4. The C4 is a 1973, the 5.0 is a 1988. I understand that I need a 50 oz. Flex-Plate, but I'm not sure the overall size (157 or 164 teeth), and I'm wondering if there is a way to determine the size needed without pulling the existing engine or transmission.
Any help is appreciated.
I'm still pulling my hair out regarding the Flex-Plate for my C4. The C4 is a 1973, the 5.0 is a 1988. I understand that I need a 50 oz. Flex-Plate, but I'm not sure the overall size (157 or 164 teeth), and I'm wondering if there is a way to determine the size needed without pulling the existing engine or transmission.
Any help is appreciated.