AzPete
Well-Known Member
+1
-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
CSRP disc brakes
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
Whoa, hold on. From someone who's been there and done that, get the Swap1 kit. It uses the factory parts and is superior in almost every way to the Granada-style kit. And since you don't have to swap spindles, you can usually get the job done in a day.
I absolutely love my OE style KH brakes from CSRP. I even went with the manual brake option and I see no reason to ever add a power booster. Braking is progressive and easy to modulate, and I've never been able to fade them. And for me, that's saying something.
The only downside to the KH brakes is pad selection. There are only a few options for pads out there. Parts stores can only get base level organic pads (I know, I work at O'Reilly's). I believe SSBC offers semi-metallic pads designed for high performance use, and Hawk and EBC both offer street and race-only versions. I'm eyeing the Hawk street pads for my next pad swap.
But unless your spindles are trashed for some reason, there's no reason to use a single piston sliding caliper setup that requires you to install new spindles when you can bolt a superior 4-piston caliper setup to your factory spindles and still fit it under factory 14" wheels.
I absolutely love my OE style KH brakes from CSRP. I even went with the manual brake option and I see no reason to ever add a power booster. Braking is progressive and easy to modulate, and I've never been able to fade them. And for me, that's saying something.
The only downside to the KH brakes is pad selection. There are only a few options for pads out there. Parts stores can only get base level organic pads (I know, I work at O'Reilly's). I believe SSBC offers semi-metallic pads designed for high performance use, and Hawk and EBC both offer street and race-only versions. I'm eyeing the Hawk street pads for my next pad swap.
But unless your spindles are trashed for some reason, there's no reason to use a single piston sliding caliper setup that requires you to install new spindles when you can bolt a superior 4-piston caliper setup to your factory spindles and still fit it under factory 14" wheels.
Is there any difference between the kits when it comes to the brake pedal - how far you have to press that sucker to the floor?
I know with the drums and fruit jar, I almost had to stand on the brake pedal and it was pretty damn close to the floor before the car stopped. Not sure if that's just how it was with older car or not? I'd like it to be a little more like modern brakes where I don't have to put my whole weight into it and stand on the pedal to get the car to stop.
I know with the drums and fruit jar, I almost had to stand on the brake pedal and it was pretty damn close to the floor before the car stopped. Not sure if that's just how it was with older car or not? I'd like it to be a little more like modern brakes where I don't have to put my whole weight into it and stand on the pedal to get the car to stop.
With K-H disc brakes up front and properly maintained drums in the back, the pedal has little free movement and little give to it once engaged. It is a quite firm pedal, but you can modulate the forces easily enough.
With an appropriately sized master, you can get the right balance of required pedal effort and pedal travel. You don't need to go to a power assist system to get there. I think most guys have gone to a stock Maverick master for your application.
66gt350
Active Member
"Kats66Pny" said:
Kat,
I've got the Stainless Steel version of the K-H disc brakes on mine and the wife's cars. I've got manual brakes on mine, and I installed a power brakes on the wife's. As far as pedal feel, there's not alot of difference between the two. The power unit is still a little easier than mine, but not like a new car. If I was to do it over, I'd get manual for the wife's 65.
I believe he is referring to SSBC (Stainless steel brake co.) I have the Force 10 setup from them (they are a k.h. style set but made from aluminum) Hate the pads though! feels like they dont have a high enough friction coefficient and will probably go with the Hawks or ebc's or even Porterfield R4s's. I'm not sure of the exact mc I have (looks like a maverick one) but my pedal is rock hard, so after the pad change if I still don't like it will be looking at a diff. master to get the pedal feel more to my liking. kip
66gt350
Active Member
"Kats66Pny" said:
Sorry...Stainless Steel Brake Corp. I should have been clearer.
Plus, the bolts to install the booster can be trying on your patience...at least it was mine!!!
Well I want to keep things as simple as possible and less headaches. I was undeer the impression the booster would give it less movement of the pedal but if that's not the case, and I can still have a firm pedal with just sticking with manual, then I'll go manual and not worry about trying to fit a booster in that little area.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
The booster is more for less pedal pressure to get the same braking force as heavier pressure on a manual system.
Power disc brakes weren't around until 1968 or so...this is only manual boost.
You do know that the drum brake master cylinder is incompatible with disc brakes?
You do know that the drum brake master cylinder is incompatible with disc brakes?
66gt350
Active Member
"Midlife" said:
Most of the kits come with a new master cylinder...I know that the SSBC kits use a MC from a 67/68 mustang.
The swap1 kit does come with a m/c. I even asked him to include a factory-style combo block so I wouldn't have to try to plumb an adjustable one into the rear line.
My brake pedal is nice and firm and does not drop to the floor. It provides good feedback and doesn't require a crapton of effort. Yes, it requires more effort than a vacuum assisted car would, but the advantage is that they always require the same amount of effort to stop. Vacuum boosters vary pressure with vacuum (duh), which changes with engine speed, load, etc.
My brake pedal is nice and firm and does not drop to the floor. It provides good feedback and doesn't require a crapton of effort. Yes, it requires more effort than a vacuum assisted car would, but the advantage is that they always require the same amount of effort to stop. Vacuum boosters vary pressure with vacuum (duh), which changes with engine speed, load, etc.