• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

F-250 dohhhh! moment

KBMWRS

KBMWRS

Welcome truth back
Donator
So after my rebuild of the fuel line on the '67 my next job was to change out the brake pads on the F-250. I've done pads on the Corvette and my motorcycle for years so should be simple. To make sure there wasn't any strange things ahead I watched a couple YouTube vids on the subject. Of course most vids entail more than you need and sometimes less...as in the phrase "just do this" without noting what "this" is...Well if I knew how to "just do this" I wouldn't be watching the video. But I digress.
Okay vid notes take these bolts out flip up the piston calipers and the pads are just siting there in their caliper housing. "Just" pull them out and place new ones in. simple.

First problem is that it took me about an hour to just jack my truck up. I have three floor jacks and none were tall enough to lift the wheel off the ground. Improvise with a 6x4 piece of wood. One on the jack arm and the other to place under the jack stand. The wood I used was long enough so not to slip out while lifting nor move under the jack stand.
Ah..wheel off. They be heavy. On to the brakes. Damn these bolts are in there. After a very long time of trying to get the bolts out I succeed. I flip over the caliper...and...the pads are in it. They did not remain on the other part of the caliper. But I get the pads out...add the new clips...and damn the pads will not go in easy. I fight them and then when I do get them to stay put the opening between them is smaller than the disc itself so no remounting the caliper. I try pushing the pistons back in but not much. I give up and replace the old pads knowing they will clear the disc. Put it all back and give up.:mad:

Later I start thinking about it and re-watch the video. Doooh!:eek: I removed the wrong bolts. I took off the whole caliper whereas I should have only taken of the piston housing.

Sunday back at it. Jack up the truck, now that I know how to do it. Wheel off. Bolts out. Piston housing flipped up. Pads stay in their housing. Pads come out easily. New clips, New pads. C-clamp the pistons with a piece of wood and push them back in. Piston housing back on. Wheel back on and on to the other side. Both done in about an hour.

It all in the details...or rather paying attention.:rolleyes:
 
Good job ! I knew you could do it !!



Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
Well, being very early this morning and thinking of your undertaking , I had to get up and give you some advice that comes to my mind.
When jacking up the car , always use jackstands as a security precaution. Or put the wheel under the car/ suspension in your case.
Never thrust a carjack on its own.
A truck in general , I believe you have to retorque the wheellugs after a certain amount of miles. Please look this up.
Don't want you to land in a ditch with the F250 and Airstreamer.
Go back the bed now. Aach , the 4 bolts , put them in the glove box , won't take long you remenber where they suppose to be.
B. out.
 
Should always retorque any wheels when removing and reinstalling. Just a good routine to follow.
 
Yes , of course but I mean that after driving , lets say 50mls , you should check the bolts again .
I remember this was done by any truckdriver who got his truck back from maintenance. Its standart practice over here.
A F250 isn't that a 2.5 ton truck ?
 
B67FSTB said:
Yes , of course but I mean that after driving , lets say 50mls , you should check the bolts again .
I remember this was done by any truckdriver who got his truck back from maintenance. Its standart practice over here.
A F250 isn't that a 2.5 ton truck ?
Click to expand...
And I mean any vehicle after removing a wheel you need to torque the wheel(s) and after a brief drive, retorque them again. If for some reason the wheel was not properly seated but torquing them didn't draw it to a full seat, driving it and then tightening again will be sure to seat and secure it properly. Any vehicle, every time. Just a simple way to make sure things are safe.
 
I've never done this with passenger cars.
Just torque them to specs and off you go.
But.. I must say I always cleaned up the hub and spray some lube pasta on it before mounting the wheel.
In my opinion , a must do .
After +30years in the business , never lost a wheel. ;)
 
Lugs on any bigger truck can be a pain. I went through an ordeal similar to yours when I first did brakes on my F350 Centurion. That's when I discovered they used SD knuckles on an OBS axle. Gosh...metric vs standard bolts, unit bearings instead if an inner and outer, and of course different brake pads and rotors
 
Yeah I'm still confused on whether the bolts are metric or standard. Seemed like my socket were close but.....of course socket/tool manufacturers also play into this.
 
American made...so I don't think those bolts are metric.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
Shoot, it's a guess now on alot of vehicles. My 96 F350 is a hodge podge of standard and metric bolts. Depends whatever the axle manufacturer or engine manufacturer felt like designing the part with. Ford just went along, very annoying.
 
B67FSTB said:
American made...so I don't think those bolts are metric.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
As Bret said, our vehicles have both metric and standard bolts on them. While the lug nut studs are metric (M14 x 1.5) and use a 21mm socket, some can cheat with a 13/16" socket.
 
B67FSTB said:
Yes , of course but I mean that after driving , lets say 50mls , you should check the bolts again .
I remember this was done by any truckdriver who got his truck back from maintenance. Its standart practice over here.
A F250 isn't that a 2.5 ton truck ?
Click to expand...
F250 is a 3/4 ton
F350 is a 1 ton
 
I had an F350 way back in 76 and the gross vehicle weight was 10,000 lbs. The truck weighed in around 2.5 tons, so it would haul 2.5 tons. I don't know why they call them 1 ton trucks, since thats only 2000 lbs. Does anybody know?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top