• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

I'm having T5 issues still.....

David67

Active Member
Well my new problem is that after I start driving the car, I am starting to get a knock at the shifter. Also I can feel a knocking sound on the transmission tunnel. The tranny does feel different but I am not sure. Seems like shifter really vibrates now.

I first thought it was the transmission mount but it's new, then I looked at the u joints and they are fine. So I check the engine maybe a bad harmonic balancer but it revs without a problem. Checked the ignition and everything looks good. Now then new problem is when it's knocking at idle in neutral it might shut off. It's dosen't have any crappy idle, stays perfectly at 800 rpms.

I am taking to the transmission shop tomorrow to see what they say. I hope it's just the tranny because I don't really want to tear into my motor. I have never seen or heard of this problem before so I really don't know were to go from here.

Any suggestions, hopefully you can understand my explanation.
 
Well my new problem is that after I start driving the car, I am starting to get a knock at the shifter.


Within the shifters mini-tower is a plastic/teflon "ball". It sounds to me like you have a little "slop" in your's. It's a simple fix to replace the ball.


Also I can feel a knocking sound on the transmission tunnel. The tranny does feel different but I am not sure. Seems like shifter really vibrates now.


Swapping a T5 into a classic Mustang usually puts the transmission's mini-tower very close to the passenger side front corner of the car's original transmission tunnel shifter opening. Remove whatever shifter boot you're using and try driving the car around the block to see if normal driving causes the mini-tower to hit the side of the shifter opening.
 
Well I checked the shifter and it's fine. Made sure it wasn't hitting the body but it's still making noise. I am taking it to the transmission guy today and they are going to tear the transmission apart to see if there is anything wrong inside. Hopefully it's not to bad.
 
T5's are notorious for shifter buzz. Do a google on T5 Shifter Buzz and you should see some action. Fox body mustangs were the original buzzers.
 
T5's are notorious for shifter buzz.


Mine does, but not constantly. It seems to be more pronounced when I'm really "getting on it". Normal driving and it usually stays pretty quiet.
 
"sigtauenus" said:
What is the fix for that?

Ford had quite a few dampners installed on the driveline on mustangs. There was one bolted to the rear axle, looked like a big slug of metal with rubber isolators. There was also one on the tranny mount, I guess to help take some harmonics out of the driveline. Hurst shifters and other aftermarket shifters magnify the buzz because they have less isolation in the handle base and so they trasmit vibration/buzz.
Does not mean the tranny is broken, could be a vibration from anywhere in the driveline that is coming through the shifter. Our older 3/4 speeds have external shifters that have sloppy linkages and don't let the buzz sneak through. The T5 is an internal rail shifter with only small nylon isolators between the shift forks and the syncronizer/shift sleeves. T5's are good about bending of the 3-4 shift fork because the stock shifters don't have a positive stop. Hitting the shifter with spirit while grabbing 3rd gear will result in a bent fork. It wipes out the syncros on 3-4 pretty quickly after the bend. It normally also knocks off the nylon isolator/busings from the for and can lead to extra noise/buzz through the shifter.
Not saying that is the trouble but if there was no buzz prior and it suddenly showed up, it is something to consider. Tires can also cause vibration and buzzing through the shifter.
If you are hearing a buzzing ticking noise from the tranny during idle, the TO bearing is likely on it's way out. If I remember, the TO bearing on T5's stays in mesh with the pressure plate fingers all the time (chevy S-10's also do this) meaning no slop between the TO and fingers so the TO bearing keeps spinning all the time.
 
Well the tranny guy went through it and found nothing. :rp Hey only charged me the cost of the rebuild kit. :10

So the next step is going to recheck my ujoints and get the driveshaft rebalanced. I am going to check the driveshaft angles again to make sure it's all good there. The transmission mount is maybe a year old. The motor mounts are in good condition no cracks or anything.

I have found a place locally that would check the driveshaft angles for free, they mainly work on 4x4's but the would look at it.

I am just glad it's not the transmission because I was starting to think I might have to go back to an automatic. :doh

This is my daily driver and it's driving me up the wall.
 
Dave,
Sorry to hear of you having this annoying problem. Have you had your driveline balanced before? You brought up a issue I have not even bothered to check the driveline angle on Shag with his T5 setup. What is the correct angle?

I assume this is the angle of the pinion vs driveline?
 
Craig you can measure your own driveline by getting an angle gauge at your local Lowes or place that sells tools. It's typically in the section where you can buy calipers, rulers, and other measuring devices. This is like the one I have:
toolsplus_2115_69237274


http://www.tools-plus.com/dasco-pro-af100m.html

I have the one above and its fine but since the needle is always at the top, it can be difficult to read as it's up inside the tunnel. I bought an Empire brand at Menards and the needle is at the bottom, much easier to read although the dial is smaller...so the increments are harder to see. Here is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-36-Magnetic-Protractor/dp/B00004YYG4

Remove the driveshaft and stick the angle gauge against the tailshaft of the trans and write down the angle. Note that if the trans is pointing down or up (most likely pointing down). You need to use the same quadrant of the angle gauge, so if you have the gauge installed on the tailshaft facing the drivers side you will need to install the gauge on the pinion yoke facing the passenger side. Once installed on the pinion yoke, again write down the angle and if its pointing down. If the trans is pointing down 4° and the pinion is pointing up 1°, then the difference is 3° and you are good. The 3° is the recommended max. If the trans is pointing 3° down and the pinion is 1° down, then your difference is 4° and too much. There is a bit of a discussion in my T56 thread if you need more info.
 
David,
If you actually feel the knocking on the trans tunnel sheet metal, I've venture to guess there is something hitting the body. I wouldn't expect the knocking on the sheetmetal to be as pronounced if it was inside the transmission, as it would have to transfer through the rubber trans mount and then into the body. You could also feel the transmission and then the sheet metal to see if the knocking is the same intensity.

Are you sure the exhaust/headers/trans isn't hitting the body? You may have to start the car in neutral and with the parking brake on, crawl under the car and see if you can figure out exactly where the sound is the loudest.
 
"cmayna" said:
Dave,
Sorry to hear of you having this annoying problem. Have you had your driveline balanced before? You brought up a issue I have not even bothered to check the driveline angle on Shag with his T5 setup. What is the correct angle?

I assume this is the angle of the pinion vs driveline?


Craig, Here's some easy reading on the subject of driveline phasing. There's picture's (graphics) too! BTW, I don't have any driveline vibration issues at all. I don't believe the T5 shifter chatter is associated with driveline vibration.


Buening,

I have the one above and its fine but since the needle is always at the top, it can be difficult to read as it's up inside the tunnel.

If you place a 10" straightedge flush along the end of the tailshaft.... and then place the angle finder along the lower portion of the straightedge.... the indication/needle is a lot easier to read as it's out of the tunnel.
 
Yeah just make sure the straightedge is square. Being off a degree or two on a 1" wide straightedge isn't easy to notice. Using the Empire one was a piece of cake, and the other one was done as well just not as easy with exhaust and everything in the way.
 
did you measure the length of the input shaft? I had a vibration that I thought was the trans, it was only in 4th and 5th gears, turned out to be the third member...
 
I was chasing a driveline vibration for weeks, as it turned out it was my driveshaft. The original builder did a poor job building my driveshaft, and it actually had a slight bend in it (only a few thousandths, but enough to cause vibration). In addition, the slip yoke was a little out of wack. I had the entire driveshaft rebuilt... new tube, u-joints and slip yoke. Now my vibration is gone.

For your next step, I'd remove your driveshaft and take it to a reputable shop to check the balance.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Craig, Here's some easy reading on the subject of driveline phasing. There's picture's (graphics) too! BTW, I don't have any driveline vibration issues at all. I don't believe the T5 shifter chatter is associated with driveline vibration.


Buening,

If you place a 10" straightedge flush along the end of the tailshaft.... and then place the angle finder along the lower portion of the straightedge.... the indication/needle is a lot easier to read as it's out of the tunnel.

Dave,
Where's the easy reading?
 
Back
Top