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Intake gasket question

one size fits nothing is right!

I could not have put it any better than the way you said it! No wonder they said don't bother sending the gaskets back! lol I got my Summit 1250 intake gaskets, and they look very nice!

"1109RWHP" said:
The freebee ones they gave you are the universal "one size fits nothing" gaskets made out of an old pizza box painted black.
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My motor finally runs!

Actually last week it fired up AGAIN! I think I was kind of nervous to start it, only possibly to hear another rocker arm break! but ok so far! I placed a thermometer in radiator and it seems to like 190 or so degress. I have the large aluminum Griffin radiator with the dual electric fans. I think one fan is on when needed, and the other fan is for the AC when it's on. I honestly don't know what thermostat is in it, and Herb doesn't remember after 1.5 years! (it's been that long!!!). The radiator filter did it's job and caught some crap, but not enough to stop flow. Now since there doesn't appear to be any leaks, I'll go ahead and drain the distilled water out and install some antifreeze. However, no exhaust leaks, sounds great!

I'm a little depressed about the alternator not charging, but I've had my nose to my shop manual trying to figure out what's wrong. I put my volt meter on the battery while the motor was running and the voltage doesn't go up. These old cars are just full of challenges!
dne'

This is not the latest photo, just one I had in my photobucket.
IMG_8576.jpg
 
Just checking...when you put on the volt meter, was the engine idling or did you rev it? At idle it may not show any charge. You may need to get the alt spinning a little for it to energize and start charging.
 
I'll check that next time I fire it up~ thanks!

"66gt350" said:
Just checking...when you put on the volt meter, was the engine idling or did you rev it? At idle it may not show any charge. You may need to get the alt spinning a little for it to energize and start charging.
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If this is a one-wire alternator, many need to be "excited" before they start outputting. The alternator needs to get to ~2500 RPM's to turn on, then it stays on. This is completely normal for many of them, like the PowerMaster alternators.
 
one wire alt vs. regular alt

Well, I fired it up and revved it above 2k rpms, but the voltage stayed at 12.3 volts. I must have a good battery as the voltage seems to just stay there after running for 5 minutes even with the electric fan running. I have the regular alternator (65amp) with the bolt on the apron voltage regulator(electronic). I do have a 100amp one wire alternator(chrome) from Tuff Stuff, but I was talked out of installing it by Bruce at Surefire restoration. I just didn't know how to wire it anyway, and Bruce said the 100 amp would possibly burn up some components? But I have it, and may eventually install it.
Even though this is a new out of the box alternator, I have to 'assume' that it works, but worried about wiring. The only thing I can see differently by looking in my shop manual, I don't have ground wire running from the one post to ground.

zalternator.jpg


While we're on electrical stuff. Yesterday I started my stang as usual, went to turn the key off, but it kept running. I looked in my shop manual and found out where the wires go, tapped on the solenoid, and the engine died. I can start it now and it will turn off and on. My question~ do I have too much load on the solenoid, on that one terminal. (the electric choke wire is not connected in this photo) I have the wire from my electric fan that was supposed to go to the ignition side, and now I have the electric choke connected to it too. I burnt my finger when seeing just how hot the electric choke gets~ it left a blister on my finger! What do you think guys?
IMG_8566.jpg



"johnpro" said:
If this is a one-wire alternator, many need to be "excited" before they start outputting. The alternator needs to get to ~2500 RPM's to turn on, then it stays on. This is completely normal for many of them, like the PowerMaster alternators.
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Re: one wire alt vs. regular alt

"Dne'" said:
Bruce said the 100 amp would possibly burn up some components?
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That's a new one on me. I've never heard of an 100 amp alternator burning up components. To wire it up, just run a heavy wire between the battery post on the back of the alt to either the battery or the battery side of the solenoid. If you're worried about it going bad and taking out something, just run a 125 amp maxi-fuse between the alt and battery. Before I swapped over to a serpentine belt, I had a 130 amp 3g alt in my car with no problems.

Which terminal are you talking about? I don't see too many wire on any of 'em. On the battery post on my solenoid, I have 'em stacked pretty thick!
 
If the amps aren't dropping after the car runs for awhile, then your alternator is working. I'd suspect either a faulty voltage regulator or too small of an alternator for the system requirements (high amperage fans, etc). Do you see a voltage difference at the battery when the fans are off compared to when they are on? If very little, then your voltage regulator on the inner fender (typically below the starter solenoid) may be faulty and is regulating the voltage too low.
 
I also don't think the 100 amp alt will hurt anything. I have a 130 amp 3G on mine, and no issues.

That 65 amp original will not keep up with radiator fans, lights, etc - especially at anything below 2000 rpm. May radiator fans alone pull 40 amps, and the old 1G style alternator puts out essentially nothing until 2000 rpm. So, driving at night will likely be draining your battery.
 
topic moved to electrical

Hey ya'll, I moved this topic to the electrical portion.
thanks!
dne'
 
Re: one wire alt vs. regular alt

"Dne'" said:
I do have a 100amp one wire alternator(chrome) from Tuff Stuff, but I was talked out of installing it by Bruce at Surefire restoration. I just didn't know how to wire it anyway, and Bruce said the 100 amp would possibly burn up some components? But I have it, and may eventually install it.
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Where do you find these idiots? It will burn up nothing. The alternator will only output what is required of it. It doesn't output 100 amps unless 100 amps is required. Then each component is using exactly what it needs and nothing burns up.

Many of us have been running 100+ amp alternators for YEARS with zero problems. All you have to do is unplug he old voltage regulator, and run a large wire (a starter wire works perfectly) to the + side of the solenoid. Done. Finished. Very simple, very straight forward.

You can then just tuck the wiring away going to the old voltage regulator and remove the regulator.
 
just lucky I guess

Thank you Johnpro! Where do I find them? lol just lucky I guess! It's just so strange, he owns and operates his own restoration on nothing my early mustangs/shelby's. I had bought my deck lid and right front fender from him. So, I'm happy to hear that this beautiful chrome 100amp will not be just sitting on shelf in my garage, it will indeed be in stalled in my stang! It'll look great!
Again, thanks!
dne'

"johnpro" said:
"Dne'" said:
I do have a 100amp one wire alternator(chrome) from Tuff Stuff, but I was talked out of installing it by Bruce at Surefire restoration. I just didn't know how to wire it anyway, and Bruce said the 100 amp would possibly burn up some components? But I have it, and may eventually install it.
[/quote

Where do you find these idiots? It will burn up nothing. The alternator will only output what is required of it. It doesn't output 100 amps unless 100 amps is required. Then each component is using exactly what it needs and nothing burns up.

Many of us have been running 100+ amp alternators for YEARS with zero problems. All you have to do is unplug he old voltage regulator, and run a large wire (a starter wire works perfectly) to the + side of the solenoid. Done. Finished. Very simple, very straight forward.

You can then just tuck the wiring away going to the old voltage regulator and remove the regulator.
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