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Wiring issues Continue

D

Daves69Coupe

Member
So I've received my replacement ignition harness from midlife. I've got all the wires connected but the red/blue and pink wires. I don't see a pink wire to connect to on main harness. Same with red blue wire. I do have a red wire thats spliced with a brown wire that goes back to fuse panel. Is this red wire supposed to be the connection for red/blue?
 

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Also traced back green wire that was in engine bay. It's going back to this switch. Could this of been the PO ignition?
 

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"Daves69Coupe" said:
So I've received my replacement ignition harness from midlife. I've got all the wires connected but the red/blue and pink wires. I don't see a pink wire to connect to on main harness. Same with red blue wire. I do have a red wire thats spliced with a brown wire that goes back to fuse panel. Is this red wire supposed to be the connection for red/blue?
Click to expand...

Do you have a tach dash? Do you have a non-OEM distributor that requires full 12V to the coil? If both answers are no, you should have a pink resistor wire somewhere close by.

The red/blue wire is your Neutral Safety Switch/starter line. There should be a match somewhere close by. The red wire you show in the first picture appears to have an original pin that once went into the ignition switch. Could this wire be red/green?

I've no idea about the green wire that goes through the firewall...it's obviously not original.
 
"Midlife" said:
Do you have a tach dash? Do you have a non-OEM distributor that requires full 12V to the coil? If both answers are no, you should have a pink resistor wire somewhere close by.

The red/blue wire is your Neutral Safety Switch/starter line. There should be a match somewhere close by. The red wire you show in the first picture appears to have an original pin that once went into the ignition switch. Could this wire be red/green?

I've no idea about the green wire that goes through the firewall...it's obviously not original.
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I dont have a tach, and the distributor is original to the 87 mustang the engine came out of I believe.

I gotta see if I can trace back the pink wire from the firewall then. Didnt see it beofre but ill keep trying.

I believe the red green wire was there and I alreay wired it to switch.
 
Ahhh...I don't know if an 87 dizzy uses points...I suspect not. Someone prior may have already removed and replaced the pink resistor wire.
 
"Midlife" said:
Ahhh...I don't know if an 87 dizzy uses points...I suspect not. Someone prior may have already removed and replaced the pink resistor wire.
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where should the pink resistor wire be wired to from the igntion?

To the engine , oil temp and coil harness?
 
An 87 dist. is a duraspark, and will have no power running to it at all. Only two wires (some had a third, a ground wire) from the sensor, which then go to the ignition module. I have this same dist (well, the '86 model) on mine.
 
I found both red/blue and pink wires I was previously missing. The PO connected a gray wire to the end of the pink and the red blue was connected to a brown wire. So now the ignition switch is completly wired up. But Im getting nothing when Im turning the key, no click or nothing.
 
If you have a Duraspark dizzy, you have 3 wires coming off it. Why don't you post a pic of your dizzy.
 
"cmayna" said:
If you have a Duraspark dizzy, you have 3 wires coming off it. Why don't you post a pic of your dizzy.
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best one i could find
 

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My point is, the distributor that has points is not a duraspark distributor and would therefore not have the 3 wires coming out of the dizzy going to the duraspark box. It may be a duraspark distributor housing that had the magnetic trigger/reluctor removed and a points system installed, but regardless the housings didn't change much until the TFI distributors (came after the duraspark). Everyone was caught up on the duraspark part, but with points the wiring is different. The only wire coming from the distributor needs to go to the negative side of the coil. The wire from the positive post of the coil is the red/green wire that is part of the engine gauge feed harness that runs along the top of the intake. At the engine gauge feed harness connector to the main harness is where the red/green meets up with the pink coil wire and brown wire. If using an aftermarket gauge feed harness, the wire colors most likely are different. The brown wire should go to the starter solenoid ("S" post I believe), which provides a full 12v to the coil ONLY during cranking. After the key is moved from the cranking position to the ON position, the power from the "S" post quits and the power feed now goes back to the reduced voltage through the pink wire. If, after all this, you still don't get anything then I'd be backprobing the ignition switch for power. Midlife may be able to help me with this, but I believe the power wire is the thick Yellow wire (and possibly the Black/green wire). You should have reduced voltage from the wire going to your postive post of the coil. If not, then most likely your ignition switch is not getting power.
 
thanks Buening, I have all the wiring hooked up between the dizzy, starter solenoid, ignition coil and harness so It seems all I can do is troubleshoot now.
 
"buening" said:
My point is, the distributor that has points is not a duraspark distributor and would therefore not have the 3 wires coming out of the dizzy going to the duraspark box. It may be a duraspark distributor housing that had the magnetic trigger/reluctor removed and a points system installed, but regardless the housings didn't change much until the TFI distributors (came after the duraspark). Everyone was caught up on the duraspark part, but with points the wiring is different. The only wire coming from the distributor needs to go to the negative side of the coil. The wire from the positive post of the coil is the red/green wire that is part of the engine gauge feed harness that runs along the top of the intake. At the engine gauge feed harness connector to the main harness is where the red/green meets up with the pink coil wire and brown wire. If using an aftermarket gauge feed harness, the wire colors most likely are different. The brown wire should go to the starter solenoid ("S" post I believe), which provides a full 12v to the coil ONLY during cranking. After the key is moved from the cranking position to the ON position, the power from the "S" post quits and the power feed now goes back to the reduced voltage through the pink wire. If, after all this, you still don't get anything then I'd be backprobing the ignition switch for power. Midlife may be able to help me with this, but I believe the power wire is the thick Yellow wire (and possibly the Black/green wire). You should have reduced voltage from the wire going to your postive post of the coil. If not, then most likely your ignition switch is not getting power.
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Im using all stock wiring and gauges also. So all the colors have met up so far.

Possible reasons for issue:

I have the main engine ground from firewall bolted to the intake not head. Could that be it?

I didnt have the back of the gauge harness plugged into the gauges while I was testing the switch to see if it turned over. Could that be it? I didnt think id need that plugged in to test switch.
 
Ground to intake shouldn't matter as long as the metal on the intake is clean at the grounding spot. I actually prefer to ground the block (empty bolt hole on passenger side near front of engine) to the frame rail, and ground the battery to the frame rail. I know the factory grounded the motor to the firewall, but you have a lot of spot welds and such to make it back to where the battery is grounded.

I'd plug in the instrument cluster when debugging. I know that a tachometer cluster has to have the tach plugged in, but am not sure about the gauges. I do know the yellow wire goes to the instrument cluster and it probably has to complete the circuit in order to power everything else. Try plugging it in and see if that helps.
 
"buening" said:
Ground to intake shouldn't matter as long as the metal on the intake is clean at the grounding spot. I actually prefer to ground the block (empty bolt hole on passenger side near front of engine) to the frame rail, and ground the battery to the frame rail. I know the factory grounded the motor to the firewall, but you have a lot of spot welds and such to make it back to where the battery is grounded.

I'd plug in the instrument cluster when debugging. I know that a tachometer cluster has to have the tach plugged in, but am not sure about the gauges. I do know the yellow wire goes to the instrument cluster and it probably has to complete the circuit in order to power everything else. Try plugging it in and see if that helps.
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thanks Buening Ill try that this weekend when I go to my parents to work on the car. I got a new place with a 2 car garage but havent brought it over yet cause I want the car running when I bring it over.
 
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