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Wiring issues Continue

Do you have the harness connected at the firewall for the neutral safety switch? With manual trans, there is just a jumper wire on the plug. I know when I was getting my 69 together, this is something that made me scratch my head :confu
 
"RyanG85" said:
Do you have the harness connected at the firewall for the neutral safety switch? With manual trans, there is just a jumper wire on the plug. I know when I was getting my 69 together, this is something that made me scratch my head :confu
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auto trans
 
Its this plug coming off firewall, its a 4 pin connector, 2 for reverse lights, 2 for neutral safety switch. Auto or manual, it needs to be plugged in or at least have a jumper on the neutral safety wires.
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everything look connected for the neutral safety?
 

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I also found 2 yellow wires underdash. One going to ignition switch and one to 5 prong connection. shown in pics below. Whats the 5 prong connection for?
 

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"RyanG85" said:
Yes. What exactly is the problem? Is there no power at all anywhere or just no cranking?
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The headlights and interior light come on as soon as I hookup the + of battery, so i think there always getting power somehow.

As far as ignition I get nothing at the ignition switch when I try and turn it over. Gauges also dont light up.
 
"Daves69Coupe" said:
I also found 2 yellow wires underdash. One going to ignition switch and one to 5 prong connection. shown in pics below. Whats the 5 prong connection for?
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The yellow to the 5 prong connector is the power to your heater; it connects to the fuse box.

The headlights and interior light come on as soon as I hookup the + of battery, so i think there always getting power somehow.

As far as ignition I get nothing at the ignition switch when I try and turn it over. Gauges also dont light up.
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Methinks that you're not getting ACC power, which is converted from the yellow line at the ignition switch to the large green/black wire at the ignition switch. Does your radio and turn signal switches work? Those run off of ACC power.
 
"Midlife" said:
The yellow to the 5 prong connector is the power to your heater; it connects to the fuse box.

Methinks that you're not getting ACC power, which is converted from the yellow line at the ignition switch to the large green/black wire at the ignition switch. Does your radio and turn signal switches work? Those run off of ACC power.
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dont have radio hooked up in car right now.

Tested the turn signals and they werent working either.
 
Go to the fuse box and test voltage at the ACC main taps. These would be the two center taps at the top of the fuse box. Another test is if the wipers work while the key is on ACC; the orange/white wire is directly tied to the ACC line from the ignition switch. To test, you'll have to pull the connector off of the switch and probe the appropriate slot.

Do these tests with key in ACC; none of these taps are fused, so be careful, OK?
 
It seems like every picture you post has at least one spliced or cut wire. You are going to end up with an electrical fire if you don't replace these wiring harnesses. For the amount of time you've put into debugging the electrical system and the amount of time still needed to get it all figured out, you could have ripped out the existing harness and put a new one in and have been back on the road a month ago. In the grand scheme of things they really aren't all that expensive, especially if you go with a refubished one from Mid....and in all honesty they really aren't that hard to change if you already have the dash pad and cluster removed.
 
"buening" said:
It seems like every picture you post has at least one spliced or cut wire. You are going to end up with an electrical fire if you don't replace these wiring harnesses. For the amount of time you've put into debugging the electrical system and the amount of time still needed to get it all figured out, you could have ripped out the existing harness and put a new one in and have been back on the road a month ago. In the grand scheme of things they really aren't all that expensive, especially if you go with a refubished one from Mid....and in all honesty they really aren't that hard to change if you already have the dash pad and cluster removed.
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Do I owe you $10 or $20 for this post? *G*
 
"buening" said:
It seems like every picture you post has at least one spliced or cut wire. You are going to end up with an electrical fire if you don't replace these wiring harnesses. For the amount of time you've put into debugging the electrical system and the amount of time still needed to get it all figured out, you could have ripped out the existing harness and put a new one in and have been back on the road a month ago. In the grand scheme of things they really aren't all that expensive, especially if you go with a refubished one from Mid....and in all honesty they really aren't that hard to change if you already have the dash pad and cluster removed.
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Ive been removing all the splices as I've went along and redoing the connections. The only reason I didnt send out the harness is I didnt wanna wait for it to be returned and I thought Id be able to figure it all out. I didnt realize how much the PO had screwed up.
 
Hmmmm......Oct 24th thru Nov 14th......Midlife is a bit slow on the return of the harnesses.....I think he has about a 1 week turn time......faster if you send in free wool.
 
"AzPete" said:
Hmmmm......Oct 24th thru Nov 14th......Midlife is a bit slow on the return of the harnesses.....I think he has about a 1 week turn time......faster if you send in free wool.
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No need to get on the OP's case about this sort of thing; we always think we can solve problems quickly. When they can't, the solution will come the next day. Well...sometimes...sometimes not. Steadily working on the problem will get to the solution (eventually) and not have to pay me for it. Time is money, as they say....

My nominal turn-around time is one weekend in my shop; I'd say less than 5% stay longer than that, usually for waiting on missing components from the customer or unusual circumstances.
 
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