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1967 Build called Electra

just don't over tighten the pinion nut (probably should replace it as well) That nut when done originally squeezes a crush sleeve that sets the pinion bearings. They are supposed to be replaced and not reused and if you over tighten it to keep it from coming loose it will burn up the bearings.
 
That seal was royal pain in the ass to get out. I bent a seal pulled a bunch but eventually.i got it... Brakes have been bled and now im waiting on some retainer clips so i can finish the parking brake.
 
Yeah, they aren't fun. Best approach I know is to drive a chisel into the edge and collapse it in and then pry it out. I've yet to find an actual puller that can hook in form the inside and get one out.
 
now.im.just irritated...i cant get the rear lines to bleed right. Soft pedal that firms up after sevarl pumps but then you bleed the line and its soft agaun
 
You've got a leak somewhere or air in the system. Make sure you are keeping the MC full as you bleed. If it gets too low you can reintroduce air into the system.
 
Dang, it did get low at 1 point...I probably got air in the master....DAMNIT ALL lol ok, i will bleed rear of the master next
 
Just fill it up and start bleeding the brakes as usual. Just keep an eye on the level and add as needed to keep it near full as you go. This is the easiest way to make sure to fully purge the full system. If you have a helper work the pedal life is a lot easier.
 
So i took the rear line off the master and fed one into the bowl. Pumped the brakes for quiet some time until it stopped getting bubbles. Now when i pump the brakes sometimes it splashes up on the hood...WTH....ugh Also my filler bottle now leaks on my harbor frieght kit so fml
 
The master should give a little squirt as the pedal is starting to be depressed. It lets the pressurized fluid back out of the calipers/wheel cylinders when you take your foot off.

Slow strokes tend to work better than stabs at the pedal, I find. I like to open the bleeders on the rear (calipers in your case) and let gravity feed fluid through the lines. Closing the bleeders and pumping the brakes and then opening them again sometimes makes this happen faster. Also gives you time to drink a beer while maintaining the fluid level in the master.

When fluid starts leaking out of one rear caliper, close it and wait for it to come out the other. Repeat this procedure for the fronts. *Most of the air will be out of the system at this point and it will be time for an assistant to pump the brakes while you Crack the bleeder.

I have used vaculas and mityvacs and all sorts of goofy bleeding tools. This is the procedure I have found to work time and time again on just about every hydraulic brake system, vw beetles exempt.
 
thebruce said:
The master should give a little squirt as the pedal is starting to be depressed. It lets the pressurized fluid back out of the calipers/wheel cylinders when you take your foot off.

Slow strokes tend to work better than stabs at the pedal, I find. I like to open the bleeders on the rear (calipers in your case) and let gravity feed fluid through the lines. Closing the bleeders and pumping the brakes and then opening them again sometimes makes this happen faster. Also gives you time to drink a beer while maintaining the fluid level in the master.

When fluid starts leaking out of one rear caliper, close it and wait for it to come out the other. Repeat this procedure for the fronts. *Most of the air will be out of the system at this point and it will be time for an assistant to pump the brakes while you Crack the bleeder.

I have used vaculas and mityvacs and all sorts of goofy bleeding tools. This is the procedure I have found to work time and time again on just about every hydraulic brake system, vw beetles exempt.
Click to expand...
I agree with gravity bleeding. I have a few different vacuum bleeders and sometimes they are good to get the fluid moving but quickly ditch them once there is fluid at the bleeder.
 
ill have to grab some more dot 3 and give it a go. Currently te back is jacked way up so ill have to lower it and see if that works better. Thanks fellas
 
Well started getting a few more things to finish....I bought the sheet metal for the battery apron and a passenger side torque box. On top of that i bought a Eastwood 135 Mig and a tank since i needed a new welder and this is an upgrade over my 90amp HF welder.
 
yeah and i just found a code to make it $60 cheaper so i got the refubded this morning. Im just happy.to be getting away from flux core
 
Don't be in a hurry to start welding on the car. Spend a LOT of time practicing with the new set-up to learn how to use it. Low power 110 welders are not all equal for sure. Mixed stuff is what I heard about the Eastwood units. What I do know is lower amperage welders like that one can be tricky to get good penetration on thicker metal. Especially consistently. Practice on like thickness stock to know what you are dealing with. Plus, as a first time user of non-flux (gas) it is a whole new world anyway.
 
Well i have welded with Gas before just not one that i owned. Ill def do some test welding before hand. Just excited to be getting better stuff. I mean i got the thing for $199.
 
I bought a 220V 130Amp so I can build stuff! I have found that even on the lowest settings it's much hotter than my 110V was. I have never used flux core. I love wire feed MIG
 
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