65 FB Scratch Build

[65-408]

I made a cardboard template using the info in the link above and it seemed to be about 5" too narrow (in all fairness, there was not enough info given so I had to guess at a few dims). Plus, the shoe radius for my bender is a bit smaller at 4.75". So I made a new drawing and template and it looks better:

Here is the drawing if anyone wants it, not sure how to make it bigger:

 

[garner67]

Great build. You definitely have some serious skills.

Keep up the great work!

 

[65-408]

OK, so don't waste your time trying to bend tube with the pipe bender:

This is a 2' test piece that I packed rock hard full of sand. Not sure what that guy was bending in the you tube video, but it must have been heavier. Also tried a longer piece and same thing... Don't really have a plan B yet, might try some local exhaust shops and see if they think they can do it...

 

[janschutz]

What is the wall thickness of the pipe are you trying to bend?

 

[stangg]

Don't really have a plan B yet, might try some local exhaust shops and see if they think they can do it...

I had mechanic in Ipswich bend my roll bar and a couple of chassis tubes. He used to race modified and has a mandrel bender and tubing. He does very nice restoration work too. Let me know if you want his contact info.

 

[65-408]

I had mechanic in Ipswich bend my roll bar and a couple of chassis tubes. He used to race modified and has a mandrel bender and tubing. He does very nice restoration work too. Let me know if you want his contact info.

Yes, send it along...

 

[65-408]

OK, so I stopped in at a local exhaust place and they bent up the hoop for me on their hydraulic push bender, not quite as good as a mandrel bend, but I think it will work... Super nice guy, wouldn't take any money, he seemed happy to just talk about the project and some of his old cars for a while...

 

[65-408]

Got the supports in, back to the wheel houses, this is as high as they can go without interfering with the trim panel courtesy light pockets. It is all just tacked in place till finalized. I also want to tie it to the roof inner structure at the top corner. I have 3 point seat belts coming and want to see if I can mount the upper shoulder mount to the bar and possibly fit the re-tractor behind the side panel.

 

[65-408]

I have been making some mods to the fuel tank and the way it mounts in an attempt to make it safer. I like the idea of the tank armor plate which effectively puts most of the fuel tank outside the body, but I was still concerned about the rubber fuel filler neck separating in a rear end collision and becoming a gasoline spraying volcano. I think the best solution is a fuel cell with a rubber bladder and good cap (eliminates the filler neck), but they are over my budget and the bladders are only rated for 5 years (and are most of the cost of the fuel cell to replace). Here is what I came up as an alternative. I bought a late model fuel filler neck from Autozone and cut the end off and welded it to the stock steel tank so that I can put a modern sealed cap on (the tank will still be vented) and eliminate the rubber filler neck:

Then I made this steel frame for the tank to reinforce the flange, so that I can mount it up from the bottom:

Then I reinforced the side body flanges and tacked in some studs and standoffs:

The tank now mounts up from the bottom, but hangs down about 3/4" lower, and 3/4" further forward (to clear the valance) than stock:

Then I made this plate to weld in to seal up the hole. I still have to add a vent tube, I will probably weld a barb fitting into the tank and run a tube up to vent out the old cap.

A draw back to this mod is that you have to fill thru the trunk, but you would have to do that with most fuel cell designs as well. Anyone see any issues?

 

[janschutz]

Nice work but can you drop the cap down the hole? Will continue to watch your mods, they all are great!

 

[Fast68back]

have you tested the interior panels with the roll bar in place? It seems, in the picture, pretty far out from the side of the car.

 

[65-408]

have you tested the interior panels with the roll bar in place? It seems, in the picture, pretty far out from the side of the car.

Not yet, but I have made cardboard templates and put the uncut side panels in place (with the bar removed) to see where the bar would come up thru. Thats how a positioned the bar side to side and front to back before tacking. It seems ok. I just got the front 3 point seatbelts so want to mess around with those before cutting anything...

 

[65-408]

Here's how I made the cut on the interior panels. I taped a piece of cardboard to the upright above the panel that could fold out of the way so that the bar could be removed and the uncut panel put back in for marking.

Then trimmed the panel using a small sanding drum on the die grinder:

Here are the seat belts I am using in the front. Going with a 3 point from seatbeltplanet.com with the chrome latches. The are really nice and pretty reasonable @ $70 each, I got the 110" long ones and plan to mount the retractor to the bar behind the panel, it just clears.

On the fuel tank mods, I hit the tank and the tank frame with POR15 and assembled them and got the plate welded into the trunk. It is prelly solid.

 

[65-408]

Got some threaded inserts (7/16UNF) made on the lathe and then welded them into the roll bar for the upper and lower retractor seat belt mounts. Here is how the seat belts will mount:

Also got the fuel tank mods done. For the tank vent, I flared and welded in a piece of 1/4" fuel line. I cut off and capped the old filler neck and also welded in a piece of 1/4" fuel line to connect the tank vent hose to:

 

[65-408]

I have made a little more progress on the interior. The new floor does not have the side trim panel lower brackets and the rear seat brackets. Luckily, I cut them out of the old car prior to scrapping the body. After alot of test fitting, I think I have everything located correctly. I also cut slots in the rear side panels for the seat belts to pass up thru.

I want to try to get all the upper trim panels in place next, which brings me to the vent slide assy's. They were a mess, but cleaned up OK. All the chrome is a little pitted, still debating on spending the $$ for replacement parts as they are pricey...

 

[65-408]

Welded up the body seams last night:

 

[65-408]

I have been putting off test fitting the glass for a long time, mainly because I don't want to know it there is a major problem with the fit, or with the trim fit. But it seems like as good a time as any, I want to put the front and rear glass in mainly so I can test fit the interior and exterior trim pieces. So I drilled new holes for the exterior trim clips and got them installed:

Then I put the seals onto the glass. That sucked, my fingers are raw, I must be missing some secret here, ended up using a plastic knife to work the lip of the seal around and onto the glass.

I installed some of the original trim pieces and I feel alot better already, it fits amazingly well considering all the parts are repos.

 

[65-408]

test post

 

[70_Fastback]

You passed.

 

[65-408]

Got the body joint filler roughed in so that I could test fit the glass and trim. I used Rage Extreme, max thickness it probably 3/16", hopefully it doesn't crack...

The front glass is in, that went OK.