JRANGER
Active Member
Fair enough, I just swear I leveled everything before welding but it's has been over a year and a move so who knows. I'll check a bunch more measurements I just remember they were brand new 5 leafs
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69 Sportsroof "Mystique"
- Thread starter JRANGER
- Start date
You are still missing a quarter panel. Maybe thats letting the body and frame flex a enough to notice one sides lower?
JRANGER
Active Member
Nice videos, thats a handy way to document things.
JRANGER
Active Member
Got everything back to refitting panels. 
JRANGER
Active Member
Quick Question. Whats the best point of ref to use to center the tail panel.....Im pretty sure mine is off to the right a bit... Having issues getting the quarters to fit properly with the bottom valance and it seems to be off the more i look at it.....
Could use the gas tank cutout. Seems like that should be centered in the floor
Things should be pretty symmetrical when it comes to the floor. Use a couple of specific reference points to find the floor centerline first and then align the rear panel to that line. I would use something like the upper shock mounting holes as one reference point, for example.
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JRANGER
Active Member
Doesn't look like much but I disassembled everything on the rear, refit it all, re centered it, and installed the rear valance. Things are fitting way better now.
JRANGER
Active Member
Really starting to hate Aftermarket doors. Gaps are weird, Door latch never fits right, I got it all installed with a new lower hinge and it lines up but gaps are stupid on not even....Going to try to re-hang it more today with the latch attached because i cant even close the door with the latch probably due to the big gap on top.
Get the horizontal body lines correct first. It looks like you've got that in decent position as shown in the pics. The door and fender gaps can be fixed with welding rod and/or a cut off wheel. Adding metal where needed and enlarging gaps by slicing out wedges as required and welding back up. Your quarters need to be in place first though. Then the door to quarter gets figured out and lastly the fender to the door. It's always a challenge made worse with cheap re-pop panels.
JRANGER
Active Member
yeah, The quarters are in place and im trying to get the doors in to make sure i can match them up before i weld them permanently. Was having a hell of a time getting the door gap to quarter yesterday so im just going to try again today and use the latch to assist with it
JRANGER
Active Member
Yeah, im about to put the stock door back on and use this POS as a door skin. Its ridiculous how bad it fits and it wont latch basically no matter what
JRANGER
Active Member
Doing some measuring looks like the latch side LIP is 1/4" wider then the OEM door i have which would indeed cause some issues....Because an extra 1/4" would get me where the latch would work
JRANGER
Active Member
This is with the hinges loose and latched....Its overlaps the quarter at the bottom
That's some fine craftsmanship there. Are those screws or rivets?
JRANGER
Active Member
Rivets
JRANGER
Active Member
So cutting the Repo is Plan B!
I decided to patch the OEM door because well why not.....
The Latch side i used a piece of floor pan from the Torino and used the repo door as a template to bend it to the small cure...It turned out all right but way better then the previous work done
The Fender side I used the Quarter Skin from before i bought full quarters where it meets the rocker. I cut it in the center to avoid the wheel well curve and such and it turned out way better and easier.
Still tons to do and yeah it will need bondo for some bumps and bruises but at least its decent
I decided to patch the OEM door because well why not.....
The Latch side i used a piece of floor pan from the Torino and used the repo door as a template to bend it to the small cure...It turned out all right but way better then the previous work done
The Fender side I used the Quarter Skin from before i bought full quarters where it meets the rocker. I cut it in the center to avoid the wheel well curve and such and it turned out way better and easier.
Still tons to do and yeah it will need bondo for some bumps and bruises but at least its decent
JRANGER
Active Member
Way better approach to go with the original doors for a ton of reasons. I wouldn't be me if I didn't caution about the need to do a seriously in-depth and detailed effort to remove any existing rust and rot behind the skin in the guts of the door before sealing it all back up. As advanced as it had gotten it will come back very rapidly and eat into the new metal way faster than you expect. What did you do in the rough old metal areas to make sure you will not have the cancer return? It looks really rough where you sprayed that red, I assume, primer. I see some really thin (even holes) metal in areas. That corner brace piece is hiding some serious rust/rot on it's backside and around where it meets the other metal. Hate to see you go through all this effort to only start to see paint bubbles just a year or two down the road.