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Boom's 68 fastback

Yeah, I should have. I did order the crossmember and mount from them. Already got the email saying they're on the way.

Seems like the normal rubber mount may be getting harder to get. I tried calling both local Autobone and Advance and neither stock the part anymore. Had to special order it since it's not in their warehouses apparently.
 
UPS man brought the new crossmember and mount today. Need to pick up some hardware at Lowes next time I'm out. Pretty sure Tremec uses metric stuff.

I talked to Shaun at StreetorTrack today, I'm driving up tomorrow to see him and pick up a big haul of parts! I'll be sure to post some pictures!
 

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Yesterday was a long day. A bit over 1100 miles total there and back.

Shaun has an amazing workshop. He gave me a tour of his shop, very nice. Got to see the various displays (even with the new billet spindles) and the race car.

Onto the parts!

I got the full rear 3 link kit off of his 1970 which is being rebuilt right now. I got all new coils and shocks for the 68 but he have me the 70 ones also. The 69-70 ones are apparently 1" shorter so he wasn't sire if they'd work properly on my 68.

He also gave me a new watts bracket since the old one was beat up from being used.

I opted to go with the stock leaf spring mount links vs the lower longer ones. Less work involved and I already have the GW subframe connectors welded in which would need cut off. I'm already expecting to have to clearance them to allow the third link mount to go on.

I can't wait to get to install this stuff.
 

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Grabbed some bolts from the local Lowes. They had 1" long and 1.5" long for the transmission to mount bolts.

The 1" seems like it could be a smodge too short. What do you guys think? Go with the longer or will the shorter ones? I like the shorter ones are stainless, but longer ones have more thread engagement

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If I could pay $69 for shipping I would be GLAD !!!!
Tremic use metric bolts as fare as I know.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
B67FSTB said:
If I could pay $69 for shipping I would be GLAD !!!!
Tremic use metric bolts as fare as I know.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
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The mount area on the trans has two sets of holes, the inner ones are metric and the outer ones are SAE.

It wasn't much the cost itself, just it cost like an additional $24 dollars just to ship two nuts and two bolts that all could've fit inside the same box.
 
I'd want full use of all the threads available. It is cast aluminum. Every thread counts.

I use stainless bolts where and whenever possible. The exception is something that requires very specific strengths and for that I go ARP almost exclusively. You can find anything you could ever need online. I tend to always buy extra of whatever I need and put the spares in stock. I have a rather large stock of hardware. I could open a store and yet, I still have the occasion that I need to run out or order something in.
 
A rule of thumb for bolts is for the length of the bolt extending beyond the plate should be approximately equal to the width of the bolt.
 
Your both right, I was thinking after I posted that the bolt should at least go through what it's bolting. Especially on a driveline component.

I have to get the car turned around and up on stands here so i can get started on the rear suspension.
 
New shifter came in from MDL! I wanted to go ahead and get it now, been debating forever and decided to order it. Plus got an MDL sticker and Keychain too!

Looks great, has an oring seal built in. Very tight. The bolts to mount it should probably be replaced with some Allen head ones. It's very tight to get a socket to clear.
 

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The sites back! I dont know if it was just me (usually is lol) but I couldn't get on here in like a week.

I sold the Fox, so I now have room to get some of the stuff out of my storage building to maybe open up some room to work on the car. Luckily most of what I need to do is under the car so I dont need alot of clearance around it.

I gave up on finding a cheap drivers side Fiero seat for the car. I bit the bullet and ordered a Procar seat. I went with the Elite Lumbar DLX seats. not quite as bolstered as the Rally seats to make it easier to get in and out of. Its pretty identical in size to the Fiero seat.

PSX_20230618_091514.jpg
 
Site was down for all.

We went with the Elites over the Rally’s too. Seemed to fit better.
 
kb3 said:
Site was down for all.

We went with the Elites over the Rally’s too. Seemed to fit better.
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Figured it was. Shame

I debated forever before finally ordering this seat. I'm glad I got it now.

Looking at a few other bits and bobs to got with the transmission. Thinking of ordering the slip yoke and the dowel kit for the clutch. I still need to decide on a clutch, looking at a Spec Stage 2 or a Centerforce dual friction. Pretty solid on the Tilton TOB, just need to actually order it.
 
That's the first pic I've ever seen with the two seats side by side like that. I am surprised how closely they match in so many areas. The other pics I've seen of the Procar almays made them look too bulky and not quite right. In your pic it looks good. That poor Fiero seat has seen better days.
 
Horseplay said:
That's the first pic I've ever seen with the two seats side by side like that. I am surprised how closely they match in so many areas. The other pics I've seen of the Procar almays made them look too bulky and not quite right. In your pic it looks good. That poor Fiero seat has seen better days.
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I was surprised to see how close there are in size also. Everyone talked about how great the fiero seat is to retrofit, that may have been the case in the past. I feel like the days of finding Fiero seats in decent shape for a decent price are gone I think.

Decided on the Centerforce DF clutch. I had one on the coupe and loved it. Those few parts should be in this week hopefully! I think the last main part i need for the trans install is the TOB.
 
Got a few more bits to go torwards the trans install.

Centerforce Dual friction clutch, a Spicer yoke and the ford racing dowel kit for the flywheel.

Just need to get the TOB bearing ordered and then I'll have everything I need to install it. After that the only excuse is being lazy!

PSX_20230621_165149.jpg
 
Looked into ordering my TOB today and realized there were two different flavors. I emailed Tilton to ask what the difference was between the two since they both were listed as for a TKX and a ford setup. I got a prompt very detailed reply I wanted to share in case anyone else was as naive as me about this stuff.

TOB types.png

Naturally with getting a good customer service experience like that, I'll be ordering a Tilton unit. Looks like the 60-6102 is the one for me with the Centerforce clutch.
 
3/8 bolt that I can thread in or out to limit the pedal movement. Truth be told, I set the bearing gap pretty tight and the way things are I do not have to depress the pedal much to get enough clutch disengagement to shift gears. Until your question I plain forgot about putting that stop in place
 
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