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FNG

I have a 1" bore MC that I bought from Shaun, it works great with my setup. I'm running the Lincoln type big brakes that Shaun has also recently put together (although I paid more from Cobra Auto years ago). I'm still running 10"x2" drums out back with Porterfield R4 pads and R4S shoes.

What about perches? Are you at least running rollers? If not, I'd recommend the dbl rollers that John (opentracker) is making. I did some testing earlier this year and on the track, there was a noticeable (and better) diff over the std roller perches.
 
"LMan68" said:
Im not running roller perches, true enough. I will consider that change.
Click to expand...

I consider that for a while......after changing them, I will do it to every Mustang I may ever own......And that is just the single roller perches. Get them for sure.
 
Are you using the GT PBR's? What size pistons do they have? I'm using a 1" bore with my Cobra front/rear calipers. Works very well.

The only other thing I can think of which would give you a hard pedal is pads. Glazing them by overheating them. If you've glazed them, you can push all you like but they just don't have any friction to them. I've had this on a 1970 rotor system I used to use on a high speed road course. The pads were useless from then on.

Has the pedal always been hard or did it go that way after a session or 2 and after some stinky pads? What pads are you using? If they are street pads and you are not running any ducting you may of overheated them.

I really think it could be your m/c being too big but new pads are easier to try first!
 
Yes, they are GT PBRs. I dont know the piston size, offhand. My memories of the braking are a year old, so I dont recall w any certainty when the hard pedal occurred....Ill have to get back out and test. I remember clearly that I had to back off going into 10A at RA b/c I couldnt find the threshold.

I think the pads were Perf Friction jobs. I know I can do better than that. The rear pads are stock, but they arent doing a whole lot anyway.


I have ducting, but not the snazzy spindle mounting units you show here...I can certainly improve my version.
 
Hawk Blue's # HB274E.610 are a great track pad.

'Blue 9012 Medium/High torque and temperature compound with excellent brake modulation. #1 selling brake pad material for SCCA.'

Perhaps try those.

Any ducting is better than none. Your track car will never be done so don't sweat it. You'll always find new problems the faster you go.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll give those a try. Prob get a cpl of items from your catalog as well :)

RE: problems, I am far more versatile than that...I can find problems going fast, slow, or sitting on jackstands ;)
 
Way back when I was figuring out what MC to use, I talked to the guys at Cobra Auto and after I went through my setup with them, they suggested a 1" bore. My memory is shot so I can't remember what they said (sorry, no tech).

The 1" bore has worked quite well so far and has a good pedal feel...for me.
 
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