"66benchcoupe" said:
You should hear his theory about how sheep herders stay warm in winter :shee
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Ignitor I / Flamethrower Coil / Resistor Wire - UPDATE: Won't Start
- Thread starter Sacbill
- Start date
You should hear his theory about how sheep herders stay warm in winter :shee
gtscode
Active Member
Sorry Bill I have lots of 67 wiring diagrams if you want to borrow them just let me know.
Also I power my Pertronix from just before the pink resistor wire and it works great. I didn't cut anything made a little Y splitter out of wire and crimped it all together.
Also I power my Pertronix from just before the pink resistor wire and it works great. I didn't cut anything made a little Y splitter out of wire and crimped it all together.
DEL65
Of The Morons
Bill, I can volunteer to let you use my 65 manual trans mini starter. Not sure it will work with a 68 auto trans. OR Sac69's 351W auto trans mini starter.
Sacbill
Hard Swinger
UPDATE: Won't Start...SOLVED!
I went back to measuring voltage with the ignition switch in the ON position. This time I was reading 0 volts at the coil. :wtf That was a spot where I have been measuring 12volts!
I went under the dash and started looking at the wiring, checking for looseness, moving things around, and so forth. I couldn't see anything amiss. This makes no effin' sense. So, I measure again with the key in the ON position:
12V at electric choke? Check.
12V at coil pos terminal? Check.
12V at I post on solenoid? CHECK.
Turn the key. The car starts right up and runs. :thu
My guess is that moving the wires around at the back of the ignition switch corrected the problem with power going out to the now-bypassed pink wire. I don't think it's the splice I made on the bypass wire. I checked those closely while I was doing them and they seemed very secure.
My question to y'all: Is it a problem with the ignition switch itself? (NOTE: It's not the original switch. I replaced it in 2003) Or is it a problem with the connectors at the end of the wire that contact the ignition switch? TIA!
I went back to measuring voltage with the ignition switch in the ON position. This time I was reading 0 volts at the coil. :wtf That was a spot where I have been measuring 12volts!
I went under the dash and started looking at the wiring, checking for looseness, moving things around, and so forth. I couldn't see anything amiss. This makes no effin' sense. So, I measure again with the key in the ON position:
12V at electric choke? Check.
12V at coil pos terminal? Check.
12V at I post on solenoid? CHECK.
Turn the key. The car starts right up and runs. :thu
My guess is that moving the wires around at the back of the ignition switch corrected the problem with power going out to the now-bypassed pink wire. I don't think it's the splice I made on the bypass wire. I checked those closely while I was doing them and they seemed very secure.
My question to y'all: Is it a problem with the ignition switch itself? (NOTE: It's not the original switch. I replaced it in 2003) Or is it a problem with the connectors at the end of the wire that contact the ignition switch? TIA!
All right...whose the wise guy that put the Smoke Jeannie back in the wires?
To answer your question, there's no way of telling where the faulty connection is. Your best bet is to get the car running and start jiggling wires. Where and when you can reliably start and disable your car, you'll find your fault.
To answer your question, there's no way of telling where the faulty connection is. Your best bet is to get the car running and start jiggling wires. Where and when you can reliably start and disable your car, you'll find your fault.
Agree with mid. Do you have enough slack in the wiring to disconnect the switch from the dash for a easier view of the connections to the back of it?
Sacbill
Hard Swinger
"cmayna" said:
Yes, I do. With the ashtray out, I have pretty good access without removing the switch. If I do remove the switch for testing, does the case of it need to be grounded, since this normally makes contact with the dash?
66benchcoupe
Member
"Sacbill" said:
No.
Robert
Sacbill
Hard Swinger
Re:Resistor Wire - UPDATE: Appears to be Fixed
I figured out pretty quickly in moving the wires around in back of the ignition switch that the resistor wire/green-red wire were loose and could be easily moved around. I pulled the switch out and tested for continuity using the reference in the shop manual. Everything checked out okay, so it doesn't appear to be a problem with the switch. (BTW, can anyone tell me what the "proof" position is for testing?)
In looking at the connector plug, the pink and green-red wires were moving in and out somewhat loosely. My guess was that the pin on the ignition switch was not fully seating into the connector pin. So, I carefully pressed the connector plug onto the switch and onto the pin and it's now much tighter. Pulling on the wires doesn't move them and moving the wires around won't cause the car to stop running.
So, from now on, the mantra is: "CHECK THE IGNITION SWITCH, DUMMY!" :char
QUESTION ABOUT ROAD TESTING: I'm now testing the voltage while driving to make sure it's stable, not fluctuating or reducing as the car heats up. I'm connecting the voltmeter negative to the negative battery post and the positive to the + post on the coil. Correct? Or should I use different connection points?
Thanks for all the help!
I figured out pretty quickly in moving the wires around in back of the ignition switch that the resistor wire/green-red wire were loose and could be easily moved around. I pulled the switch out and tested for continuity using the reference in the shop manual. Everything checked out okay, so it doesn't appear to be a problem with the switch. (BTW, can anyone tell me what the "proof" position is for testing?)
In looking at the connector plug, the pink and green-red wires were moving in and out somewhat loosely. My guess was that the pin on the ignition switch was not fully seating into the connector pin. So, I carefully pressed the connector plug onto the switch and onto the pin and it's now much tighter. Pulling on the wires doesn't move them and moving the wires around won't cause the car to stop running.
So, from now on, the mantra is: "CHECK THE IGNITION SWITCH, DUMMY!" :char
QUESTION ABOUT ROAD TESTING: I'm now testing the voltage while driving to make sure it's stable, not fluctuating or reducing as the car heats up. I'm connecting the voltmeter negative to the negative battery post and the positive to the + post on the coil. Correct? Or should I use different connection points?
Thanks for all the help!
Bill,
Keep in mind that at this rate you'll be done in no time with this project. Then what are you going to do? Sloooowwww down.
:bowdown
Keep in mind that at this rate you'll be done in no time with this project. Then what are you going to do? Sloooowwww down.
:bowdown
The Proof Circuit is a momentary signal sent to the idiot lights when you first turn the engine on to prove out that the lights still work.
Sacbill
Hard Swinger
Re: Re: Ignitor I / Flamethrower Coil / Resistor Wire - UPDATE: Won't Start
You're so right! Just imagine what would happen if I were to do something like... oh... rebuild the motor?
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"cmayna" said:
You're so right! Just imagine what would happen if I were to do something like... oh... rebuild the motor?
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Re: Re: Ignitor I / Flamethrower Coil / Resistor Wire - UPDATE: Won't Start
Won't internal combustion engines be banned by then?
"Sacbill" said:You're so right! Just imagine what would happen if I were to do something like... oh... rebuild the motor?
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Won't internal combustion engines be banned by then?
DEL65
Of The Morons
Wha..? Is it fixed?
Sacbill
Hard Swinger
Re: Re: Ignitor I / Flamethrower Coil / Resistor Wire - UPDATE: Won't Start
It should be, but I'll know more the further I drive it
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"DEL65" said:
It should be, but I'll know more the further I drive it
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Drive that sucka! or do I need to come up to Sacto and "do it".
For 1973, there are two wires off of the ignition: the pink resistor wire that goes to the green junction box behind the fuse box, and a green/red wire that goes to the fuse box itself.
I'm clueless about how you take apart the steering column to get at the connector...maybe you don't. It's a simple pull-apart connector.
If you cut the pink resistance wire, you'll have no signal going to the coil. You need to cut the pink resistance wire just short of both ends and splice a 16 gauge wire onto the two stubs left over so that you have a bypassed wire.
If you cut the pink resistance wire, you'll have no signal going to the coil. You need to cut the pink resistance wire just short of both ends and splice a 16 gauge wire onto the two stubs left over so that you have a bypassed wire.