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Kats Project
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
Dne, you told husband I needed something.. was this what you were talking about? Export Brace
Dne'
Well-Known Member
Hey Kat! yes, an export brace (essential)reinforeces the shock towers and along with a montecarlo brace is a great benefit too. The folks here may give a better technical description of what it actually does. There are some much nicer looking setups vs. the stock ones you may purchase~ they're less gaudy looking than the stock. Research this part on this site. There are vendors on here that sell a really cool setup or they're available. I have the stock brace, but that was before I learned about the COOLER setups! kind of the same thing after you've installed your springs and found out about roller perches eh! So don't rush out and buy an export brace until you know all your options, and this thinking should apply to everything you buy in the future. Research everything! The search engine on stangfix is of great benefit, and check out the vendor portion. Ask and ye shall receive eh? or call me, I'll tell you everthing I know! oh oh, the export brace goes beneath the shock tower~ you know when you remove your shocks, then the metal thing that has the 3 bolts that you're having trouble with? The brace goes beneath that part~ so you may want to get new bolts if they're not long enough. The export brace (stock) is pretty heavy duty material.
dne'
dne'
"Kats66Pny" said:
Dne'
Well-Known Member
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/tower.html This is an example of a much better system from TCP, but again, there are others and this really makes the engine compartment look much better sas well. There are other options too! The get a little pricey though~ so again shop shop shop!
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Glad to see you got things working. Just don't rush it or the drive will be a nervous one.
You girls better be careful or the powers to be may stick you in a female builders corner. You see what happened when someone mentioned food around here.......
You girls better be careful or the powers to be may stick you in a female builders corner. You see what happened when someone mentioned food around here.......
jims6t6
Well-Known Member
"Dne'" said:
+ 1
So I guess that is what these are for, an export brace?
I thought thats what they might be since they seem to connect something from it to the holes on the cowl vent, but looking at some of the pics of export braces, it looks like are suppose to connect between the cap and tower itself.
Speaking of that... still can't get the damn free spinning bolts out.
These are the two bolts I can't get out. From inside the cap, they both look like this.
Arrow is pointing to the flat part of the bolt. Seems like part of the shock tower is rusted out right there. Not sure if that's the reason the bolts are free spinning?
Oh Dne, remember what I was telling you about the trans cooler lines? Well this is what I was talking about. See how low they are to the ground?
Any tips on how the hell to fix that?
And just because my son is adorable!
Gotta start them early right? :ecit
I thought thats what they might be since they seem to connect something from it to the holes on the cowl vent, but looking at some of the pics of export braces, it looks like are suppose to connect between the cap and tower itself.
Speaking of that... still can't get the damn free spinning bolts out.
These are the two bolts I can't get out. From inside the cap, they both look like this.
Arrow is pointing to the flat part of the bolt. Seems like part of the shock tower is rusted out right there. Not sure if that's the reason the bolts are free spinning?
Oh Dne, remember what I was telling you about the trans cooler lines? Well this is what I was talking about. See how low they are to the ground?
Any tips on how the hell to fix that?
And just because my son is adorable!
Gotta start them early right? :ecit
Last edited by a moderator:
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Get the solid export brace and don't worry about those tabs. They could be removed if you desire. The solid ones can be a bear to install but they are a whole lot better than the factory pieces of tin.
The only way I have found on those bolts is wedging a large flat screwdriver under the head. Sounds like you tried that already. Since they need replaced anyway....take a grinder/cutting wheel to them.
Most tranny cooling lines are steel and some change to rubber at the rad. There should be some clips to hold them in place and a hanger off of the area of the right motor mount.
The only way I have found on those bolts is wedging a large flat screwdriver under the head. Sounds like you tried that already. Since they need replaced anyway....take a grinder/cutting wheel to them.
Most tranny cooling lines are steel and some change to rubber at the rad. There should be some clips to hold them in place and a hanger off of the area of the right motor mount.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I used std, grade 8 bolts with a star washer, works fine and they don't spin.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Look at the originals....they are like a short stove bolt. The square under the head keeps them from turning. I have had mixed results in using regular grade 8 bolts but it would be worth a try.
Those are carriage bolts, 4 sided, and the shock tower has slots to keep them from spinning (well, that was the original intent, anyway). All Mustang houses carry them.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Thanks....I knew I drew a blank on the bolt names......to much reading on VMF.....effects the mind.
Thanks again! With a little luck and calling around I was able to find replacement bolts. Remind me never again to go into a store alone without my husband. Nothing like being hit on when buying car parts. :doh Anyway, got my bolts and was able to put the everything back together.
Sexy new springs with ugly rusted parts!! :lol
I forgot to take a picture of before of the passenger side to compare, but before there was only room to stick like 2-3 fingers between the top of the tire and the wheel well(?). The new springs defintely raised it up some and that was with 1" drop on the new springs.
Here's the old springs and perches. Eww! Thats disgusting!
Took it for a little test drive around the neighborhood to see if that solved the problem of jerking hard to the right. It did help. Its way less now. You don't have to struggle holding the steering wheel anymore, but if you let go, it still drifts to the right a little bit.. but nothing as bad as before. So now I have to figure out what else could be the problem. Maybe just need to take the car in and have tires realigned or something? Lower/Upper control arms maybe? Those were pretty ugly looking.
After the drive around the neighborhood to test the springs/steering issue.. another issue need to solve.. brakes. Guess I'm gonna have to bleed them, and check the lines or leaks. Hubby said he didn't notice it before but he did say while driving his mind was always on fighting the steering issue so might not have paid attention to the brakes and so they could have been like that since the day we got the car. Or maybe we're just not use to old mustangs and drum brakes, but that damn pedal goes ALL the way to the floor and very slow to come to a stop. I keep reading thats just how some old cars and old brakes are? We were told the master cylinder, brakes, lines and hoses were new. I even called the person I got the car from and they said the M/C was about 3 months old. To me, that looks awfully rusty and old looking, but was told since they are oiled (?) they can rust quickly? Can a M/C look like this after 3-4 months?
edit: I'll be checking brake fluid too once I can get the damn cap off. It's on there GOOD.
The more I play around under the car, the more I just want to rip it all apart and replace everything. :sad
Sexy new springs with ugly rusted parts!! :lol
I forgot to take a picture of before of the passenger side to compare, but before there was only room to stick like 2-3 fingers between the top of the tire and the wheel well(?). The new springs defintely raised it up some and that was with 1" drop on the new springs.
Here's the old springs and perches. Eww! Thats disgusting!
Took it for a little test drive around the neighborhood to see if that solved the problem of jerking hard to the right. It did help. Its way less now. You don't have to struggle holding the steering wheel anymore, but if you let go, it still drifts to the right a little bit.. but nothing as bad as before. So now I have to figure out what else could be the problem. Maybe just need to take the car in and have tires realigned or something? Lower/Upper control arms maybe? Those were pretty ugly looking.
After the drive around the neighborhood to test the springs/steering issue.. another issue need to solve.. brakes. Guess I'm gonna have to bleed them, and check the lines or leaks. Hubby said he didn't notice it before but he did say while driving his mind was always on fighting the steering issue so might not have paid attention to the brakes and so they could have been like that since the day we got the car. Or maybe we're just not use to old mustangs and drum brakes, but that damn pedal goes ALL the way to the floor and very slow to come to a stop. I keep reading thats just how some old cars and old brakes are? We were told the master cylinder, brakes, lines and hoses were new. I even called the person I got the car from and they said the M/C was about 3 months old. To me, that looks awfully rusty and old looking, but was told since they are oiled (?) they can rust quickly? Can a M/C look like this after 3-4 months?
edit: I'll be checking brake fluid too once I can get the damn cap off. It's on there GOOD.
The more I play around under the car, the more I just want to rip it all apart and replace everything. :sad
Last edited by a moderator:
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Drum brakes, when properly kept up, are pretty good. Sure, they are not discs but my drums on my current 66 have about 1" of pedal movement for normal stopping. A bit more pressure and I can lock them up. Replacing the entire self adjusters helped a lot on mine.
Drum brakes will start top fad after numerous, hard applications where it will take more for discs to fade. I drive mine in traffic in Panama City nearly daily and they have never faded.
Drum brakes will start top fad after numerous, hard applications where it will take more for discs to fade. I drive mine in traffic in Panama City nearly daily and they have never faded.
Hrmm so maybe I'm just use to todays brakes on cars and how I barely have to step on the pedal and the car stops on a dime and just not use to drum brakes on old cars and there's nothing wrong with them after all. I'll still get them looked just to be safe by someone in town familiar with classic cars and if they say they are fine, I guess I'll have to get use to it.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
It does sound like they need some work because the pedal should return like any other car. It also should not go to the floor. Your stops should be able to be brisk and fast if needed.
On a car that you are not familiar with the past of, I recommend just going thru the entire brake system and replacing anything of the slightest poor condition. It is not hard to work on the brakes and with the work you are doing, it sounds like you should be able to fix any problems you encounter. Brakes are not magical.....just mechanical. A good upgrade is a dual bowl master cylinder also.That gives two separate brake systems in case on half fails.
On a car that you are not familiar with the past of, I recommend just going thru the entire brake system and replacing anything of the slightest poor condition. It is not hard to work on the brakes and with the work you are doing, it sounds like you should be able to fix any problems you encounter. Brakes are not magical.....just mechanical. A good upgrade is a dual bowl master cylinder also.That gives two separate brake systems in case on half fails.
Dne'
Well-Known Member
HI Kat!
congratulations on your new springs install!! I think Pete and I think alot alike, or I'm beginning to think alot like him cause he answers my questions quite often, and I ask a lot of questions!! lol
The single cylinder MC scares me. You run out of fluid and you have no brakes! Personally, I'd have to take all the wheels off and inspect EVERYTHING in the brakes. I would ugrade them. Nothing like disc brakes on the front, but I suppose as a daily driver you could get away with Well working drum brakes. Just takes all the fun out of driving knowing if you're not going to be able to stop if someone pulls out in front of you! I wouldn't drive it if the pedal goes pretty much all the way to the floor, at least until I'd found out why. I don't know if your particular year model has self adjusting brakes or not. Just put the car up on jackstands, pull the wheels and drums, and check the wheel bearings too. Does the parking brake work?
AS for the front end~I'm not an expert, but logic tells me the front end needs more inspection(doah!). you once were telling me that the tires looked toed out(check the toe in with a tape measure to see how off it may be). I betcha if you take it in for an alignment, they're going to sell you a complete front end. I had an old car back in the '70's that pulled very badly and wound up being a bad radial tire causing it to pull. Maybe you could at least get a reputable front end place to check it out, then take it home and fix it? Pay them for their expertise though, or let them align the stang after you've completed the work, but please get the brakes working.
Dne'
congratulations on your new springs install!! I think Pete and I think alot alike, or I'm beginning to think alot like him cause he answers my questions quite often, and I ask a lot of questions!! lol
The single cylinder MC scares me. You run out of fluid and you have no brakes! Personally, I'd have to take all the wheels off and inspect EVERYTHING in the brakes. I would ugrade them. Nothing like disc brakes on the front, but I suppose as a daily driver you could get away with Well working drum brakes. Just takes all the fun out of driving knowing if you're not going to be able to stop if someone pulls out in front of you! I wouldn't drive it if the pedal goes pretty much all the way to the floor, at least until I'd found out why. I don't know if your particular year model has self adjusting brakes or not. Just put the car up on jackstands, pull the wheels and drums, and check the wheel bearings too. Does the parking brake work?
AS for the front end~I'm not an expert, but logic tells me the front end needs more inspection(doah!). you once were telling me that the tires looked toed out(check the toe in with a tape measure to see how off it may be). I betcha if you take it in for an alignment, they're going to sell you a complete front end. I had an old car back in the '70's that pulled very badly and wound up being a bad radial tire causing it to pull. Maybe you could at least get a reputable front end place to check it out, then take it home and fix it? Pay them for their expertise though, or let them align the stang after you've completed the work, but please get the brakes working.
Dne'
Don't worry. I wasn't planning on it leaving the garage until the brake problem is fixed. Upgrading to a dual bowl master cylinder has been on the top of my things to buy list for sure. Right now, I'm just trying to get the damn lid off the MC so I can check the brake fluid. It's an impossible task it seems. Maybe I'll just wait till husband has a day off work and take it in to get the front end looked at, brakes, and see if some huge muscle man can get the lid off and check the fluid. :lol
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Use a pair of large channel lock pliers to remove the lid.