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My wife's old car. A '66 coupe restomod-eration

kb3 said:
really starting to take shape! Just a hint, make sure you use blue locktite on the set screw on the Lokar throttle assembly. It backed out a couple of times on us before we used the locktite. The pedal just falls to the floor!
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The pedal belongs down on the floor anyway!
 
I make oil said:
Thanks for the advice. Will do.
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Once you have it clocked where you want it, it is also a good practice to dimple the shaft so the set screw can "nest" into it as well as the Locktite as advised. Typically this is done to help prevent rotation but even on the splinned shaft it helps to permanently seat the screw.
 
image.jpeg Thanks. Will do. I'm very happy with the installation. It looks very clean. The guy doing my wiring drilled two holes thru my firewall into the engine bay and ran screws to mount the fuse box that are now poking into my engine bay. I'm not happy about that at all! I had told him to mount an aluminum stand off plate or to use some body adhesive to mount a piece of starboard so this would be avoided. I think I'm going to get a couple of SS Allen head bolts and run them from the engine bay to the interior and put the nuts inside. It was difficult to keep my cool when I saw those screw poking into my engine bay after all the work and expense to smooth the firewall.
 
I make oil said:
View attachment 27731 Thanks. Will do. I'm very happy with the installation. It looks very clean. The guy doing my wiring drilled two holes thru my firewall into the engine bay and ran screws to mount the fuse box that are now poking into my engine bay. I'm not happy about that at all! I had told him to mount an aluminum stand off plate or to use some body adhesive to mount a piece of starboard so this would be avoided. I think I'm going to get a couple of SS Allen head bolts and run them from the engine bay to the interior and put the nuts inside. It was difficult to keep my cool when I saw those screw poking into my engine bay after all the work and expense to smooth the firewall.
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Aside from the obvious of being able to say I actually built my own car, this is exactly why I would never pay someone to work on my car. They will NEVER take the care and interest in it as I would. I would bet that guy thinks your getting upset is crazy.
 
I don't have the shop or the time to build this car. I work a lot. This is the first issue like this in the build and it's an easy fix.
 
Instead of SS allen head bolts to run back through, have you considered using button head allen machine screws instead? They are usually a black phosphate finish and have a pretty low profile. I think they'd almost "disappear", thereby helping to restore the look you were shooting for.

Something like this:
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p.s. If you just gotta have SS, you can find them in that too!
 
Those standard black bolts will rust. Ask me how I know. The button heads are the way to go. I used them alL over in my car. Usually in SS but I also got black hardware that has a finish to it that doesn't corrode or rust as well. I think my source was McMaster Carr.
 
Thanks. I'm going to look for them. I'm out of the country until July. I hope things are farther along when I return home.
 
image.jpeg

Cruise control installed. It really is a very nice well constructed unit. This one is from Dakota Digital and plugs right into the IDIDIT steering column and uses the GPS speed signal for control. I should have lots of new pics soon of the rest of my controls and gauge installations. :)
 
The reason the paint looks so crappy is because everything is covered in something called liquid masking to help protect the paint. It's really neat stuff, protects from scratches, oil, overspray and just washes off with water. I'd never heard of this before. My builder Corey says he uses it all the time in his shop to protect cars. Also the car has not received its final cut and buff. The clear coat is over 3 mills. Corey said after its all cut and buffed the clear should between 1 to 1.5 mills.
 
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Looking good, I do have one question though. Wouldn't it be better to mount the relay with the connection points pointed down? I would be worried about the possibility of water getting in the relay.
 
I thought about that. Will probably do that once it's all wired up. All of the terminals are soldered and once all the wires are run we are going to loom everything up. Then, I'll probably turn it down. I'm also thinking about spraying all of the connections with some sort of spray sealant to keep out water. My only worry is it might hold in any water that might get through and corrode the terminals. Maybe it's better to just leave it alone so it can dry? I'm certainly going to grease everything with dielectric grease. The electronics in the boxes are all encapsulated. So they are good.
 
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I'm using Weld studs for my grounding points. I'm kinda OCD about my grounds. It seems to me the number one cause of failure on a 12volt system is due to poor grounding which also leads to galvanic corrosion which then leads to breaks in wires and circuit failures.
 
Well things are moving along slowly. :-( I am out of the country for work and won't be back stateside until the middle of July. The Door loom issue has caused more trouble than I expected. Hopefully once it is sorted they will finish up the wiring and we can move on to interior and final assembly.
 
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