• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

OK so here we go - Suspension

The shocks and springs came as a "set", so I'll run em until I can't. I got the springs etc here.

At the moment freight costs and import tax is running around 75% of the buy price so I'm definitely not getting everything from there.

Current list of replacement items;

New 4 piston Willwood calipers and pads;
Upper/ lower control arms;
Roller spring perch;
Strut rod and sway bar bushes;
2" lowered springs and shitty shocks;
new rear brake pads

Fitted rack and pinion steering around 3/4 years ago so, the next upgrade will probably be coil overs.
 
Last edited:
The price for Koni shocks here is around $600 a pair so I think I'll slum it for a bit and then get a good quality coil over package.

BTW what's the optimal sway bar size. It's a raiser car so won't be going to the track.
 
Last edited:
I have a 1" and would recommend it. You don't need to be on a track to appreciate the benefit if you like to get a bit aggressive into a corner every now and then. There is a special joy when you can come in hot onto a freeway entrance ramp and while others brake you can give it a bit more and have the car sit nice and flat.
 
Ok might have to add another upgrade then. Currently running the standard smaller version.

Opentracker order processed. Now the wait for the trip across the pond begins.
 
I have a 1" up front and a smaller in the back. I think the rear is 5/8.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
I have a 15/16" on the front, no rear.

The initial upgrade from the factory size was a noticeable difference, but the Shelby drop made a bigger difference.
 
Haven't done the drop yet. But if the car is lowered say 2" won't that have a similar affect with lowering the center of gravity
 
Last edited:
Dropping the car is good, but dropping the upper arm changes the geometry and lets the front suspension work better.
If I could only do one, it would be the Arning drop.


Mark
 
Dropping the upper arms is not an option. It is a necessity for even normal driving. The resulting improvement is amazingly obvious.
 
Aussie67 said:
The price for Koni shocks here is around $600 a pair so I think I'll slum it for a bit and then get a good quity coil over package.
Click to expand...
Mike Eaton (who probably made the OEM springs for your car) discusses why not to use gas shocks on classic cars starting at 17.06, You gas shock lovers can argue with him. And yes he sells hydraulic shocks, but if you want a descent ride and you aren't racing, you may want to listen to him.
 
msell66 said:
Dropping the car is good, but dropping the upper arm changes the geometry and lets the front suspension work better.
If I could only do one, it would be the Arning drop.


Mark
Click to expand...
So thinking about this, while I'm sure it works as so many have done it, but what affect does it have on the stroke of the shock and the spring travel? From what I have read, it appears that the ball joints operate at the limit as well. I have been in cars that have had the ball joints fail and its not fun.
 
Last edited:
Mach1 Driver said:
Mike Eaton (who probably made the OEM springs for your car) discusses why not to use gas shocks on classic cars starting at 17.06, You gas shock lovers can argue with him. And yes he sells hydraulic shocks, but if you want a descent ride and you aren't racing, you may want to listen to him.
Click to expand...
Very interesting.
 
Last edited:
Aussie67 said:
So thinking about this, while I'm sure it works as so many have done it, but what affect does it have on the stroke of the shock and the spring travel? From what I have read, it appears that the ball joints operate at the limit as well. I have been in cars that have had the ball joints fail and its not fun.
Click to expand...
Guys have been doing this mod for literally decades on street cars as well as track. It creates very little change to the shock stroke. Using a lowering spring has much more of an affect. Neither cause reason for concern.
I've never experienced a ball joint issue nor have I ever heard of one. Ole Dumbo and friends race with this mod which undoubtedly puts much more stress on everything and certainly would push stuff to the limit. I don't recall him ever having issues. Ok, he has ISSUES. Lots of 'em but nothing to do with the ball joints on his car.
 
Last edited:
I ran the car with stock arms(that were new in 04) with the drop for 12 years on the street and at the track. No abnormal wear on any of the parts. When I replaced everything will roller parts in 2016, I gave the stock parts to a local guy for his restoration of a 66 coupe.

As Nike says…Just do it.


Mark
 
The standard 1" drop shouldn't cause ball joint binding issues. If you go more than 1", that's when you start worrying about the upper ball joint.

The UCA drop lowers the front end maybe 1/2", but more importantly it lowers the roll center and changes the camber curve to give the tires negative (instead of positive) camber in compression. It is the single biggest improvement I've made to the suspension.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top