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"Phoenix" 65 Coupe to FB

Well you always learn lessons the hard way. I was very frustrated welding my cowl covers in. It was spattering really bad and i have no idea why. After i ran out of wire i went to tractor supply and bought some Hobart wire and all of a sudden my welds started working better with way less spatter...So now i know to stick to name brand store bought wire. . So i have a lot of grinding and cleaning to do on the cowl19400383_10158862134620521_362949481109952104_o.jpg
 
tarafied1 said:
I'm going to quit selling junk to people I know. y'all are making me sick!
but seriously you two have done more with them than I could have! keep going!
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Its the gift that keeps giving. :) Besides you have had a ton of fun with the bobcat and your kids :) Also provided me a car to build right
 
JRANGER said:
Its the gift that keeps giving. :) Besides you have had a ton of fun with the bobcat and your kids :) Also provided me a car to build right
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Yes, you are making a lot more progress than I did. And yeah, we are having fun driving the junk we kept!!!


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Didnt want to get carried away and do too much work with the body kit before i ran my new stianless gas and break lines. Just that way when its harder to get under i didnt struggle
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Then i did some grinding to get the side scoops to fit better. Just some minor grinding on the lip
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That scoop looks like its gonna fit great. Been thinking about adding those. What are you going to use to bond it to the car?

Have fun with those stainless lines. Flaring stainless is such a pain.
 
Boom said:
That scoop looks like its gonna fit great. Been thinking about adding those. What are you going to use to bond it to the car?

Have fun with those stainless lines. Flaring stainless is such a pain.
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Luckily there was a sale at CJPONY and these are all preflared kits from ClassicTubes
 
Ok help me out guys, im slightly confused by the rear rubber line.
This car was originally a single exhaust car. There is a single exhaust rubber liner and a dual exhaust line. I can see the difference but i bought dual exhaust hard lines. So far everything has worked fine but i havented add the rear lines. Looks to be about the same as my 67...However what i dont understand is why its $50 for the rear line when the 1 on my 67 was $18. Looks the same to me. Is the 65 a longer line? I do see its positioned a little more offset but just want to make sure i get the right hose to fit the car.
 
So today i finally wire wheel above the rear axle. Then i used the metal brake i bought to make patches for the gas tank lip secrion out of the roof sheet metal. Got it tacked in and naturally ran out of welding gas.20170708_111631.jpg 20170708_133411.jpg 20170708_142420.jpg
 
Although {.} will disagree, I am not trying to be a critic (or an ass) but from those pics it doesn't look like you are fixing problems but rather making new ones. You need to do a much better job of cleaning up the old metal before you start trying to patch in new. The welds can't be very good judging by the metal adjacent to them (and their appearance). You are just creating new areas to rot away by leaving rust in place. Get the area completely down to clean bare metal before you start melting metal. A bonus will be how your welding starts to even out and stops "popping" and all the rest you have to have been experiencing. Clean metal will yield you nice penetrating results instead of all those surface dwelling caterpillars you have right now.
 
Yeah its not overlapped at all and that's why its only tacked in so i can clean everything before i put more weld in. I cleaned the underside before hand just not on top
 
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Make sure you weld those connectors in. Bolting them is only a half-step from using tape. And when you weld them do so beyond those small flats the bolts pass through. Even going so far as to make solid connection along the bar length at points to the floor metal. Otherwise they aren't going to do much.

One really well made/designed option are from Tin Man Fabrication.
http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/in...duct_id=58/category_id=60/mode=prod/prd58.htm
Made from very heavy gauge steel and formed to fit up against the floor nicely. The front end slides into the frame rail to provide more welding area. Best I've seen.
 
I don't have picture on my phone but I have weld-in connectors from Competition Engineering. They actually are straight/flat and go thru the floor pan inside the car. But they basically make the front ant rear frames rails tie together like it's got a full frame. I also added the notoriously missing right front torque box and did the simulated Boss 302 shock tower bracing. Car feels really solid!


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tarafied1 said:
I don't have picture on my phone but I have weld-in connectors from Competition Engineering. They actually are straight/flat and go thru the floor pan inside the car. But they basically make the front ant rear frames rails tie together like it's got a full frame. I also added the notoriously missing right front torque box and did the simulated Boss 302 shock tower bracing. Car feels really solid!


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Very nice. I welded these in and i also added both torque boxes so it should be pretty solid. My 67 did have any of this stuff so im sure ill notice a difference
 
JRANGER said:
Very nice. I welded these in and i also added both torque boxes so it should be pretty solid. My 67 did have any of this stuff so im sure ill notice a difference
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you will, I could tell a difference. I put a 460 in in 1990 and didn't do the sub-frame connectors until 05. It felt pretty twisty before
 
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