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"Phoenix" 65 Coupe to FB

Got this USC All Metal filler on the cowl and lead fill areas. Will need more on the top of the qtrs but a good start for now. The cowl area worked real good but i also used a 8" dry wall spreader on it. This stuff is a little weird to spread but it works pretty good. I should of used something small on the back part as i couldn't get it to even out how i wanted

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Looks like fun. Is this all metal filler better then bondo/evercoat? Never used it, just wondering.
 
Boom said:
Looks like fun. Is this all metal filler better then bondo/evercoat? Never used it, just wondering.
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Its supposed to be better especially for lead filled area because it actually contains metal. Ive heard a lot of people say its great in general and better because its more resistent
 
I like to use all metal in areas I’ve butt welded to help cover any pin holes I may have exposed in grinding. It has an aluminum powder mixed it. But in the original lead seam areas I’d use something stronger like durabond with fiberglass stain. It will flex better in those areas.


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Fst Blk said:
I like to use all metal in areas I’ve butt welded to help cover any pin holes I may have exposed in grinding. It has an aluminum powder mixed it. But in the original lead seam areas I’d use something stronger like durabond with fiberglass stain. It will flex better in those areas.


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I went this route because there was a post on VMF Facebook page and a ton of people said they use this but others also mentioned this. I figued it made sense. Most people said this was better due to resisting rust a lot better. Either way its there now so we will see
 
I used a product called "aluma-lead" back in the 90's. It's like Allmetal. I used it on my seams mostly because I heard from a body guy that if you are filling an area with any depth it will work better. It doesn't hold moister and is not as flexible as plastic filler so it make the seam strong. Then you finish with a plastic filler. It did my quarter panels in 1990 and the car has been driven in 18 states and in all kinds of weather and even been on the drag strip many times and two open track events. No signs of issues after all that!
 
Thats great to hear!! I thought the cowl would be a great spot to use it with all the metal and butt welds.

started fitting the duck tail. Looks like i got the Driver side rear a little off when i welded it in.

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So my boss sent me home early because i was sick. So instead of resting like i should i got a jump on sanding down the car. There has definitely been some paint fix/blending as i found areas that came off super easy and had primer on top of more white paint but havent found much bondo

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Well i finished sanding the exterior and found a little bondo at the bottom of the rear glass. Nothing crazy, a little surface rust on the roof.
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Afterwards it was time to replace the hinge on the bottom of the drivers door and adjust everything. I spent over an hour getting this gap and fitment right...IT is a pain in the ass!! On top of that the hinge gets hung if opened all the way and i have to tap it with a hammer to break free. Will a little grease fix that?
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You need to carve that bondo out and find out what it is hiding. What does the backside look like and the metal in the window recess? This is an area prone to water pooling and rot. You want to make sure it is repaired properly and not left to recur after paint.
Also, when setting your door gaps start with the one between the door and quarter as the quarter is a fixed point. Fender to door comes last. Given the angle of the last pic I can't tell what that rear door gap looks like. What shows is very good.
That lower front corner door rot is normal but still bad. You can bet there is some inner structure that may need cut out and replaced too.
 
Horseplay said:
You need to carve that bondo out and find out what it is hiding. What does the backside look like and the metal in the window recess? This is an area prone to water pooling and rot. You want to make sure it is repaired properly and not left to recur after paint.
Also, when setting your door gaps start with the one between the door and quarter as the quarter is a fixed point. Fender to door comes last. Given the angle of the last pic I can't tell what that rear door gap looks like. What shows is very good.
That lower front corner door rot is normal but still bad. You can bet there is some inner structure that may need cut out and replaced too.
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Rust in the door doesnt look too bad except in that corner. As far as the rear it def has some surface rust on the underside in the corners so im going to have to figure out how to get a wire brush in their good and see how rough it is
 
JRANGER said:
Rust in the door doesnt look too bad except in that corner. As far as the rear it def has some surface rust on the underside in the corners so im going to have to figure out how to get a wire brush in their good and see how rough it is
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Cut out that door rust and you will see what is going on behind it. There is inner structure that supports the hinge panel, etc. that will likely also need repair. Like I wrote it is very common and the reason so many doors get scrapped. Water can pool in there (debris builds up and clogs drain holes) and cause real damage. Get it fixed now or it will come back quickly.
 
Horseplay said:
Cut out that door rust and you will see what is going on behind it. There is inner structure that supports the hinge panel, etc. that will likely also need repair. Like I wrote it is very common and the reason so many doors get scrapped. Water can pool in there (debris builds up and clogs drain holes) and cause real damage. Get it fixed now or it will come back quickly.
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That is the plan, I have a patch panel sitting around just for the door. Just something ive been slacking on until i checked to see if it went further
 
ANy recommendations of Autozone rattle can primers? Yes I know i need to epoxy but im not at that point. I just want something i can put on to make sure it doesnt surface rust while i finish up some metal work and filler stuff
 
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