5000 watts is about 20 amps. That's a big breaker. It's fine just keep an eye on things. Feel the wire after it's run a bit and see how warm it's getting.
-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
"Phoenix" 65 Coupe to FB
- Thread starter JRANGER
- Start date
JRANGER
Active Member
True is actually has 3 modes. 3000/4000/5000. So hopefully it works well enough on the lower power.
JRANGER
Active Member
i installed my heater in the garage and it works enough to make the garage workable. Also got the door allined but my striker is too low. So its soaking in some wd40. Hopefully i can get it loose
Mach1 Driver
Well-Known Member
Hey that brings up a question: what do you guys use to loosen those gigantic phillips screws on the striker? There is no tool I can find that comes close to that size- what works?
kb3
Well-Known Member
I ended up using an impact screwdriver. They typically have large bits and allow you to put longitudinal force while unscrewing. Depends on how tight yours are.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLLDyYeZ1tgCFYt6Ygod4QUE3A
https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLLDyYeZ1tgCFYt6Ygod4QUE3A
JRANGER
Active Member
Wd40 did the trick and i had a decent tip phillips.
However now problem is the bottom is sitting in. Ive pulled the door all the eaybout at the hinge. Guess i need to try to push it in all the way at this point
However now problem is the bottom is sitting in. Ive pulled the door all the eaybout at the hinge. Guess i need to try to push it in all the way at this point
Have you tried to adjust the striker out a bit?
JRANGER
Active Member
Its up and out as far as it will go
The rubber seal is going to move it out if it’s not on yet.
JRANGER
Active Member
Did some work today, finally got my 351w on the engine stand and started disassembly before getting irritated by missing sockets and then not being able to break free the head bolts. Then used my 4 way lug wrench as a cheater bar'
Taped on my door weather stripping and now the bottom sits flush buttttt now the topd out and its all out of whack so back to adjustments.
Worked on the front fitment more and ended up doing alot of shaving on the front top to get it to fit better.
Taped on my door weather stripping and now the bottom sits flush buttttt now the topd out and its all out of whack so back to adjustments.
Worked on the front fitment more and ended up doing alot of shaving on the front top to get it to fit better.
JRANGER
Active Member
Found the block casting. Looks to be a D2AE-6015-BA-9 1972 Full Size Engine Block Assembly.with 6 bolt valve cover which means its a 351W just like Art told me. Heads are D0OE-C which apparently were pretty good back in the day ....Guess this use to be a pretty solid engine
Gotta do some more research so i know what to label as i disassemble.
Gotta do some more research so i know what to label as i disassemble.
There is very little that you will reuse in the rebuild. Virtually every bolt needs to be replaced with new. Most important thing is to keep the rods and their caps together. Order isn't really important as if you are to re-use them they need to be reworked/checked by a machinist to make each identical in weight etc. IF for some reason you plan to re-use the cam and/or lifters you MUST keep them in order. Mixing them up will guarantee a wiped cam.
tlmartin84
New Member
Jeff,
Cab you try to describe this stuff, from start to finish as compared to normal body filler?
Is it smooth when mixed to spread, or is gooey?
Any pinholes?
How is it when it "kicks", fast, slow?
How about after its hard, does it break into easily like regular filler?
IT's 50/50 on this stuff, some guys swear by it, some say it is a joke..........I am debating on using around my door edges, not sure if I should or if I should go with the Duraglass instead.
JRANGER
Active Member
Here a video i watched before hand that describes it pretty well..
It different, thicker and spreads really well. I let it sit for a day and then sanded it. It sands pretty good and on a bigger area i had good success with it. Like you said mixed reviewers and people say not to use it in areas that flex a lot.
JRANGER
Active Member
Have the engine further disassembled. Still got a bit to go then im gonna clean it up and get it ready for the machine shop to hopefully just clean and hone it.
I did some more fitting on the front and im getting closer to be ready to start body work.
I also used cardboard and tape off the taillight housing for the 69 cougar light. After a bit of thought i wanted to get a taillight panel for a 69 cougar to weld in but they are hard to find and expensive as hell. So im going to make fiberglass ones that way i can use the factory sealing to make them air tight. We will see how that goes
I did some more fitting on the front and im getting closer to be ready to start body work.
I also used cardboard and tape off the taillight housing for the 69 cougar light. After a bit of thought i wanted to get a taillight panel for a 69 cougar to weld in but they are hard to find and expensive as hell. So im going to make fiberglass ones that way i can use the factory sealing to make them air tight. We will see how that goes
tlmartin84
New Member
Video?
LOL
LOL
JRANGER
Active Member
opps
JRANGER
Active Member
Well sometimes laziness pays off. I spent hours fitting the unisteer r&p today. Gribding the lip on the the lca bracket is recommended for the proper fit. No problem, however i had welded in a street or track camber kit for the lca. Its mimics the 67 style adjustment with locking camber plates...luckily i welded those in but never drilled out the lca bracket to match because i had to grind those back out as the bolt head was stick out to far to allow the r&p bracket to sit flush.
So here i am 3 hours later finally with the bracket installed.. Lol
Now i have to call unisteer because i thought thr kit came with 67 and 65 outter tie rod ends and i need 67. Ugh..
So here i am 3 hours later finally with the bracket installed.. Lol
Now i have to call unisteer because i thought thr kit came with 67 and 65 outter tie rod ends and i need 67. Ugh..
JRANGER
Active Member
Well i have got the r&p installed, 67 tierods installed and so on. I now need to cut the steering shaft down to match up to my epas. Then i can do the finishing touches on it. Just with the tierods in loose it seems like it will be a great setup.
I also cleaned up the areas of the car when the panel bonding is and hit it with some eastwood 2k epoxy.
So maybe next week ill get it taped off and get the panels fit with filler.
I also cleaned up the areas of the car when the panel bonding is and hit it with some eastwood 2k epoxy.
So maybe next week ill get it taped off and get the panels fit with filler.
Looking great, how did that all metal work out for you?