When i had a C4 i put a B&M Pro ratchet in w/ 5' cable set up,( i think it's like yours?) when i installed it it they have a second park position (chebby) and when i thought i was in Drive, it was Neutral, I had to adjust my linkage... I'm not familiar with the shifter you have, sorry i cant help more.
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Removing an engine
- Thread starter Kats66Pny
- Start date
I only know what was told to me when I bought it and even the person I bought it from didn't know anything other than what was told to him since he got the mustang in a swap for his rusted shell Cuda. All I really know is the engine was built with the intentions of racing and the stuff under the hood is its a '90 GT 302 Roller, GT40 Heads, Air Gap Intake, and Holley Carb which I later learned was a 700 DP. I have no idea the cam size or if it was bored over any. :shrug
It would be nice to know this stuff, but how much of the engine would I have to take apart to figure this stuff out? :confu
It would be nice to know this stuff, but how much of the engine would I have to take apart to figure this stuff out? :confu
Not sure if it's been mentioned yet but if you plan to pull the motor and tranny together, jack up the back end of the car big time for the angle will make the pull easier. Yes, pull the radiator first.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Almost a complete tear down. The cam needs to be measured for lift and duration for starters. Then the bore and stroke..... My thought is if it runs good, don't tear it apart. You may be asking for troubles. If you did take it apart, you might as well build it again to the specs you desire. It is just money after all.....
The shifter......you should be able to contact B&M and get info on it. You should be able to relocate it for a better console fit too.
The shifter......you should be able to contact B&M and get info on it. You should be able to relocate it for a better console fit too.
I disagree, Pete. If she's pulling the engine it's pretty simple to find out what kind of cam she's got. Take off the front cover and chain and you'll almost certainly be able to get the cam make and info of the end of the cam. Or, pull the intake and valve cover and you can slip in a solid lifter and measure the cam lift with a dial gauge. Pull a head and you can measure the bore. With the engine out it's not much work at all. In and done in a few hours. Peace of mind for a hell of a lot longer.
If it were me, I'd pull that thing apart enough to see what was going on inside. Some of the things you've revealed about that car and dismissed as "PO didn't bother because it was to be a race car" could just as easily be explained as " PO was an idiot and didn't know what he was doing". It would suck to do all the work you intend only to find out that engine was a ticking time bomb. It only costs the price of a few gaskets to take a look at what was done.
If it were me, I'd pull that thing apart enough to see what was going on inside. Some of the things you've revealed about that car and dismissed as "PO didn't bother because it was to be a race car" could just as easily be explained as " PO was an idiot and didn't know what he was doing". It would suck to do all the work you intend only to find out that engine was a ticking time bomb. It only costs the price of a few gaskets to take a look at what was done.
I haven't touched the engine. It's still sitting in Gertrude. Oh and I'm leaving the trans in. No reason to pull it out. At least not right now.
My husband has a nagging feeling the head gasket might be blown or something which is causing some of the leaking. Something about oil and water. Water in the oil or oil in the water.. something like that. So there's a slight chance some of the engine will have to be taken apart. He said at least go in and check any gaskets, replace them if needed, that way he has some peace of mind about it. Since I want it to be my DD, I guess he wants to make sure everything is perfect.
He also said something about taking the engine to someone and having it bored/stroked whatever if it isn't already. Oh and he mentioned supercharger. :wtf
I'm happy with it (the engine) as is, but I won't complain if he wants to spend it on my mustang. I'd much rather spend $ on making her look sexy first (helloo E-Kit!!) then go back later and do engine stuff.
My husband has a nagging feeling the head gasket might be blown or something which is causing some of the leaking. Something about oil and water. Water in the oil or oil in the water.. something like that. So there's a slight chance some of the engine will have to be taken apart. He said at least go in and check any gaskets, replace them if needed, that way he has some peace of mind about it. Since I want it to be my DD, I guess he wants to make sure everything is perfect.
He also said something about taking the engine to someone and having it bored/stroked whatever if it isn't already. Oh and he mentioned supercharger. :wtf
I'm happy with it (the engine) as is, but I won't complain if he wants to spend it on my mustang. I'd much rather spend $ on making her look sexy first (helloo E-Kit!!) then go back later and do engine stuff.
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Well, if you are having issues of oil and water being mixed....I would not hesitate to pull it apart and see what is happening. One does not take apart an engine to "check" gaskets....you replace them once apart. You look for any damage to the old ones to know how things were.
If you are wanting to do engine work, it is much easier to get it done now and not when you have to remove and install in a finished car.......but it can be done.
If you are wanting to do engine work, it is much easier to get it done now and not when you have to remove and install in a finished car.......but it can be done.
If you've got water in your oil you have some degree of engine tear down in your future. Having been sitting as it has you also will also find you have rust and corrosion in some very bad places if you, indeed, have been pumping water through your oil passages. Cylinder walls, bearings, etc. are all suspect at this point. The longer it sits this way the worse it will get.
I'm sure if this engine was really "built" by the PO, the block has been bored to some level. Whether it was just a clean-up of a full "30 over" can only be confirmed by measurement. If it is already bored .030 there isn't really advisable room to bore more. A clean up is about all you should really do to it. All the more reason to get int here and make sure its not rusting up. There is also the very real chance someone just bolted on some parts and the short block is still completely stock.
I'm sure if this engine was really "built" by the PO, the block has been bored to some level. Whether it was just a clean-up of a full "30 over" can only be confirmed by measurement. If it is already bored .030 there isn't really advisable room to bore more. A clean up is about all you should really do to it. All the more reason to get int here and make sure its not rusting up. There is also the very real chance someone just bolted on some parts and the short block is still completely stock.
Mach1Rider
Active Member
"Kats66Pny" said:
Well if he has a nagging feeling (other than the wife :roll) while the engine is out would be the time to disassemble it and check over what has been done to it.
It makes cleaning and painting easier, Having all the gaskets and seals replaced will keep it clean and you will know whats inside for future upgrading.
Hey now, I don't nag the husband. I just bribe him. :roll
With all the other hack jobs done by the PO, it would be nice, as you said, to go in and see what has been done or not been done to it. Replace/fix anything that needs fixing or replacing or upgrading. Since it will be out, I also planned on repainting the block and getting a few things powder coated. Make it look decent.
With all the other hack jobs done by the PO, it would be nice, as you said, to go in and see what has been done or not been done to it. Replace/fix anything that needs fixing or replacing or upgrading. Since it will be out, I also planned on repainting the block and getting a few things powder coated. Make it look decent.
apollard
Active Member
"Kats66Pny" said:
Smart woman. Use effective tactics.
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
What I would do is to pull the engine and tear the intake, heads and timing cover off, oh, the pan too. You can check almost everything from there.
Nothing worse than to remove an engine you know nothing about and reinstall it and have it blow up and pull it again but this time with nice paint to worry about.
Before Ed goes to paint the engine which runs awesome will be removed and checked out for sure. This way when it goes back in I will be fairly certain that it will last.
Mel
Nothing worse than to remove an engine you know nothing about and reinstall it and have it blow up and pull it again but this time with nice paint to worry about.
Before Ed goes to paint the engine which runs awesome will be removed and checked out for sure. This way when it goes back in I will be fairly certain that it will last.
Mel
A
Anonymous
Guest
"guruatbol" said:
Both of those comments have me laughing and crying at the same time!
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
"silverblueBP" said:
Um, you been there done that?
How many times?
Mel
A
Anonymous
Guest
You obviously have missed the last 2 years of my track debacles!
AzPete
Well-Known Member
Four nuts holding the torque converter to the flywheel. Is there an Inspection cover on the bottom or can you see the flywheel? Starter out?
Also, the tranny sits on two dowel pins for alignment.
Also, the tranny sits on two dowel pins for alignment.
No inspection cover. Flywheel is visible.
Was able to remove 1 of the 4 bolts you said. The flywheel isn't moving and so we can't access the other 3.
The starter is still in. Can't get to the bolt to undo it because the headers are in the way and can't get the headers off because they are welded to the exhaust under the car.
:rant
Was able to remove 1 of the 4 bolts you said. The flywheel isn't moving and so we can't access the other 3.
The starter is still in. Can't get to the bolt to undo it because the headers are in the way and can't get the headers off because they are welded to the exhaust under the car.
:rant
guruatbol
Always on vacation!
sawsall is your friend!
Get the starter out and then take the plugs out to relieve the compression and make sure the drive shaft is off and turn that engine over and gt tot he other three bolts.
engine removal becomes much easier once you've done it a time or two.
Have you taken the headers off the heads?
If the PO welded then to the exhaust because he didn't want to mess with leaks at the collector gaskets you can get some inexpensive Try-Y headers later and go back to collectors. I like having them since I can fully remove the headers without any issue or removing anything else.
Mel
Get the starter out and then take the plugs out to relieve the compression and make sure the drive shaft is off and turn that engine over and gt tot he other three bolts.
engine removal becomes much easier once you've done it a time or two.
Have you taken the headers off the heads?
If the PO welded then to the exhaust because he didn't want to mess with leaks at the collector gaskets you can get some inexpensive Try-Y headers later and go back to collectors. I like having them since I can fully remove the headers without any issue or removing anything else.
Mel