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Shelby drop and lowering spring

Horseplay said:
If you haven't had things apart to inspect the bearings then I absolutely suggest you do. It's not a big job at all and then you will at least know where things stand. Might just need a cleaning and repacking. Hell, I'd do that anyway as long as I had it apart for peace of mind.
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Agreed, and it's such a low dollar item if I need to replace them.


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Any good suggestions on headlights. I have stock headlights, and obviously they are no comparison to my Acura Tlx. So when I drive the beast at night I feel paranoid because basically you can't see shit. Lol.


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Stock style headlights can be more than bright enough provided you wire them correctly. The best solution is to use the light switch to control relays that actually carry the lamp load. Feeding the full battery voltage straight to the headlights via a solid state relay contact creates a night and day difference in light intensity. Not the answer you may have wanted but it is the way to a brighter system. And the wiring work isn't very difficult. Be sure to use heavy gauge wire from the battery source to the relay and then the headlights. The stock wiring is not really up to snuff by modern standards. Not to mention if it is original age will likely cause it to create higher resistance further limiting the power hitting the bulbs.
 
Horseplay said:
Stock style headlights can be more than bright enough provided you wire them correctly. The best solution is to use the light switch to control relays that actually carry the lamp load. Feeding the full battery voltage straight to the headlights via a solid state relay contact creates a night and day difference in light intensity. Not the answer you may have wanted but it is the way to a brighter system. And the wiring work isn't very difficult. Be sure to use heavy gauge wire from the battery source to the relay and then the headlights. The stock wiring is not really up to snuff by modern standards. Not to mention if it is original age will likely cause it to create higher resistance further limiting the power hitting the bulbs.
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I hid my relays behind the passenger side headlight.
 
3175375 said:
I hid my relays behind the passenger side headlight.
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Wow!! Wow!! Drove the beast on the highway between 80-85 mph around 2500rpms. The 351w feels strong and the steering and stability was awesome!!! What a difference everything has made so far. I still haven't checked the wheel bearings yet but I will soon.




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67stang said:
Wow!! Wow!! Drove the beast on the highway between 80-85 mph around 2500rpms. The 351w feels strong and the steering and stability was awesome!!! What a difference everything has made so far. I still haven't checked the wheel bearings yet but I will soon.




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Anyone want to know how I fixed my wheel hop for 20$!!!!!!


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Well so after careful inspecting my new leaf springs I went hmmmmm. If I'm pushing power to the rear wheel and I have( new 5 leaf, shocks, shackles, decent tires, probably correct pinion angle, strong frame(meaning little to no rust with new bottom skins) 5 speed manual 351w,what could it be??

Well like everyone knows how wheel hop works so I took a good hard look at my 5 leaf reverse eye. And noticed the clamps seem somewhat (wimpy) especially for a 5 leaf. So I put on two leaf spring clamps forward of the axel. And holy shit ZERO WHEEL HOP!!!!!!!! I can burn out out as long as I want with absolutely no wheel hop!! So stoked!!


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67stang said:
I agree I blame the clamps Scottdrake is using. They surely don't clamp the springs together very well


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Didn’t know if I should start a new thread or just continue:

Have a question. I have a small leak ever since I purchased the car two years ago. About a drop on the ground if I drive it.

How can I tell if it’s the sump or rear main seal. And should I even bother. I mean I have no issues now. Clutch doesn’t not smell.

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