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Shelby drop and lowering spring

Horseplay said:
I have a design in mind that involves making bracket plates that mount at the three shock tower cap bolts. Much like Shawn has done with his system but would move the brace farther forward for clearance like you need. This sould be MUCH better than triangulated bar brackets as in that last picture since the mount would be directly to the suspension area (shock tower) where there is also much more structural rigidity.
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Interesting.... I think for now I will just get the one piece export brace, and maybe not do the MC for now until I figure out a solution. Still waiting for my parts from OT then the front suspension should be done.

I tell you this I'm getting damn good on doing my alignment!!! Lol.




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67stang said:
Interesting.... I think for now I will just get the one piece export brace, and maybe not do the MC for now until I figure out a solution. Still waiting for my parts from OT then the front suspension should be done.

I tell you this I'm getting damn good on doing my alignment!!! Lol.




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This is not my mustang: But does it matter how far this nut is screwed in?

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67stang said:
So then you do run the nut all the way down?


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yes. It needs to be torqued and the lock nut also tightened. The RAM produces a fair amount of force on it to 'aide' you in steering the vehicle.
 
3175375 said:
yes. It needs to be torqued and the lock nut also tightened. The RAM produces a fair amount of force on it to 'aide' you in steering the vehicle.
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Okay thank you. So I have had this mustang for 2 years and obviously upgrading a ton of stuff as you guys know already: is it common to have a little slop in the steering? My steering feels nice and tight now when I'm actually turning or moving the wheel except going straight. Going straight I have maybe 1-1.5 of free play in the steering wheel. FYI I have never messed with the steering box)




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Before ripping it out and planning to rebuild, first make sure the play is in the box itself. The attached video shows what to do. If there is box "slop" you can try to make adjustment to tighten things up a little. Check around 11:45 or so in the vid.

 
Horseplay said:
Before ripping it out and planning to rebuild, first make sure the play is in the box itself. The attached video shows what to do. If there is box "slop" you can try to make adjustment to tighten things up a little. Check around 11:45 or so in the vid.

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I swear, if it wasn't for the feed back from you guys I would be so frustrated with my car. I looked for videos before but couldn't find one like this that is simply. I'll take a look this weekend. Also my new ADJUSTABLE strut rods will be in today!!!! Can't wait to put them on. They had a shipping issue that's why it took so long. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
67stang said:
I swear, if it wasn't for the feed back from you guys I would be so frustrated with my car. I looked for videos before but couldn't find one like this that is simply. I'll take a look this weekend. Also my new ADJUSTABLE strut rods will be in today!!!! Can't wait to put them on. They had a shipping issue that's why it took so long. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
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Just to add I watch the entire video. Wow great information!!



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I ripped the entire steering system out when I tore my Mustang apart. The recirculating ball steering is relatively easy to adjust the entire steering box and re-packed it. Once I got that javelin back together, I adjusted it appropriately and it worked flawlessly.

Take your time and do it good.
 
3175375 said:
I ripped the entire steering system out when I tore my Mustang apart. The recirculating ball steering is relatively easy to adjust the entire steering box and re-packed it. Once I got that javelin back together, I adjusted it appropriately and it worked flawlessly.

Take your time and do it good.
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Well since I will be under my car again :) . this weekend (my parts came in) I will definitely look at all the steering parts including the box. If it is the box I will make the small adjustment as noted in the video.

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Ohh yea, Strut rods are in. Caster set to 3+. Camber -.5 and toe 1/16 in. Wheel straight. And adjusted the steering box as noted in the video. And just a tad of 1/4 it feels snug!! Car is ready for cruising the highway at 80mph!! Well I think I will just drive it to work and back for the next couple of days. And check everything again. There was just a tad wiggle (I think front main wheel bearings. So that might be next. Lol



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msell66 said:
Feels good to learn a few things and do the work yourself!

Nice job
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It totally does. I'm 44 and have always lived this car since I was a kid. My dad had pictures of his 66 and 67 GT500!!!, but of course he got rid of them when he was young. But I told myself I would get a 67 fastback some day. And well golly I have one. But obviously I kind of jumped right into the fire lol.

It is great when you can do things yourself but I wouldn't have done any of this without you guys. Thank you!!!!!


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If you haven't had things apart to inspect the bearings then I absolutely suggest you do. It's not a big job at all and then you will at least know where things stand. Might just need a cleaning and repacking. Hell, I'd do that anyway as long as I had it apart for peace of mind.
 
Don't forget to put Nitrogen in your tires.:rolleyes:

Nice looking suspension.
 
I’ve seen tires vacuumed until they collapse on the rim so they could have almost pure nitrogen inflation.

Oddly, it’s all Costco uses...although I’m not certain of its purity.
 
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