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T5 tranny install advice

great explanation!

OK, that was an excellent explantion! :notworthy: I'm going to look into this system more~ Thank you again!
dne'
 
Re: diaphram vs. linkage

"Sportbikechick" said:
Hey Brandt,
Is the clutch stiff with the diaphram clutch, or it's the spring that's making it stiff? So, once the helper spring is removed it shouldn't be so stiff? a little confused here(doesn't take much for me :doh)
Click to expand...

If you use the old style 3 finger clutch, you will need something similar to the "old school" setup as it pushed the clutch fork to engage. The modern diaphram style uses a pivot inside the bell housing so you need a setup that pulls the fork to engage (the helper spring is not needed), thus allowing a cable to be used. The advantage of the mustang steve over the ron morris is the cable, the MS uses a late model mustang cable that can be easily replaced with a trip to the auto parts house or Ford dealer, the RM setup is a custom cable that you can only get from RM and it cost more $$. The Opentracker setup is very nice and looks pretty sweet as well, it replaces the rods with spherical ends as was mentioned. Its also a fairly pricey setup. Last time I checked opentracker did not have a 67/68 setup, it was just 65/66, not sure there is a huge difference. You could also look into the Mcleod hydraulic throwout bearing setup that I am using. http://www.mcleodind.com/application_guide_pgs/HYDTOB_SlipOn.html or try and build your own hydraulic setup http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm IIRC there was an issue with the company that supplied the slave cylinder, I think they went out of business or something.

Just checked the opentracker website and didnt see any clutch parts?? http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/products/
 
To can modify your present "cable" bellhousing to work with a push type fork by making a spacer for the fulcrum. Most Mustang parts catalogs list them. http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

While the cable is nice, I've read too many people having problems with them either hitting headers or R&P. I'm going to convert my 66 from auto to either a T5 or toploader. If I go with the T5, I'm definitely not going with a cable.
 
~??? gee guys! I'm totally discombobulated! The hydraulic throwout bearing amazes me! I think I'm still kind of leaning towards Mustang Steves setup. All of 'em are pricey. For me it's simplicity,, and ease of installation and of course parts available when they break. I'm tired now, and want to watch tv.
I do appreciate all the input and advice :notworthy:
dne'
 
Dne,

You're doing the right thing by asking these types of questions. Back in the old days (before internet forums) a lot of the modifications/upgrades on these cars were hit or miss trial and error. Lots of wasted time and money. It's convenient now to easily discuss with others what will and won't work, although sometimes there is an "information overload". It's wise to absorb this information while continuing to ask MORE questions before you plunk any money down on parts that won't work together.

I'm using the MS clutch cable kit on my '66 with a T5. I'm using FRPP shorty headers. I have NO clearance issues whatsoever. I'm certain that if were running a set of long tube headers, clearances for the cable would get much tighter. My advice is this:

Long Tube headers = hydraulic clutch
Shorty headers = cable clutch

Certain types of Long Tube headers are "made to fit" the OEM mechanical clutch linkage. I'm not sure which brand these are, but others should be able to chime in. I'm not a big fan of long tube headers on a street car. Usually, the headers hang too low and hang up on speedbumps, etc. Shorty headers only give up a small percentage of performance over long tubes, but are more "street friendly".
 
I agree with Dave on the headers. Use the shorty's for better ground clearance, especially if you plan on lowering your car which I recommend for improved handling. As far as the clutch linkage, I think improved "old school" is the best and here's why;

Cable clutch = limited header selection and potential repeated cable failures.

Hydraulic TO = potential fluid leaks & have to pull tranny to RR the TO also if you plan on using a brake booster you could have some clearance issues at the firewall.

Mechanical = A tried and true system that seldom breaks down and has been improved over the years with products like Opentracker.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Dne,

You're doing the right thing by asking these types of questions... It's wise to absorb this information while continuing to ask MORE questions before you plunk any money down ...
...I'm not a big fan of long tube headers on a street car. Usually, the headers hang too low and hang up on speedbumps, etc. Shorty headers only give up a small percentage of performance over long tubes, but are more "street friendly".
Click to expand...
As usual Dave has very good advise. I have an auto trans (and I don't think my car is like a Miata) because it was easier to get the car on the road. Since I have a 429, swapping to a 5 speed will be a bit more complicated. However, I do plan on it some day and I agree with the more "funner" comments of driving a stick! I also have to say long tube headers made my car nearly impossible to drive on the real world streets but until only recently were shortys available for the 429 in a 67/68 body. I have 'em now and haven't noticed any loss in performance (it will still melt the tires on command) and I have enjoyed the freedom to drive almost anywhere a Miata can go. Anyway, keep the questions flying and soak it all in. This thread is good for others too (me) as I WILL some day stick a manual in my Miata, uh I mean Mustang.
 
Has anybody heard of cable clutch conversions causing firewall problems? As I store away this type of info for my conversion I recall hearing or reading that the cable can cause cracks to the firewall which was not designed for the load... just curious, thanks
 
Yes, I have heard about that problem as well. I think the fix is a reinforcement plate welded to the firewall. Again, not in line with what she said she wants. Simple, reliable and easy to use. I believe in the KISS approach. Kept It Simple Stupid.
 
"Sportbikechick" said:
Plus I'm a little down cause the disc brake(rear) stuff that I got was both left handed! :doh I wrote the place, but haven't heard back yet. Always a back up plan eh! I still have my drum stuff just in case!
Click to expand...

While four wheel disc are nice to have, but you don't need them on a street car. The biggest advantage is they don't fade when they get hot or wet like drum brakes do. Unless you plan on doing a lot of road racing I would not spend the money on them. Plus, without ABS you can lock'em up pretty easy. Master Power Brakes makes a rear drum kit with larger drums and better (ceramic IIRC) shoes that some people feel are just as good as rear disc brakes but much easier installation for less money. Again, they are like the OEM system but better. They are on my list of upgrades as well. Too many upgrades, not enough money.
 
I think I'm a victim of "upgrade modification syndrome" (UMS)(I just made that up) :doh. I see people doing the upgrades and it seems the thing to do, so I (we) want to do it too! Promoting unwanted stress on the self and purse(or wallet). Only you and I would appreciate the labor intensiveness that was put in to make it happen. My husband could care less.
A long time ago(30years?), I had a '67 Cougar/289/auto/ac/ps,etc. I don't remember having any problems stopping, I did put headers on it and it was a pain in the ass after that! lol

Thank you for bringing me back to reality :notworthy:KISS!
We can put this case to a close.
I just want my car on the road ASAP(another year or so).

Here's what I'm going to do~ Install my C4/shift kit, keep the rear drum brakes~ now how's that for simple!
Again, this is learning, hopefully it helped a few of you too!
I love Stangnet and its great people, cause that's what makes Stangnet~ Stangnet! :notworthy:
dne'
 
Good plan, I think I would have rebuilt that T-5 before I installed it anyway. I taught my wife to drive a stick 35 years ago (El Camino SS 396 with 4 speed hurst) and while she drives a BMW 325 with an automatic today, she could drive my mustang if she really wanted to. She thinks it's too loud, too smelly and I drive it like I am a 16 years old testoserone powered NASCAR wantabe. I told her, when I drive this car, I am still 16 years old in my mind that's one reason I love it so much.

The important thing here is to get the car back on the road. We all agree, old mustangs are much more "funner" when you can actually drive it. Many of the upgrades can be done once the car is up and running. Then you can decide what needs to be upgraded and what is good as is. The last best upgrade I made to my car was a power rack & pinion steering kit made here in the US of A by Unisteer.
It made a BIG difference in the enjoyment of driving my car and was installed after my car had been back on the road for five years or so. I upgrade slowly and try not to make the mustang just another deadline I need to make in life. Enjoy the ride, because cars like ours are never ever done.
 
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