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Trying to stab the C6 to the 460. Not going so well.

After making sure the torque converter fits, I'd get the trans on an old tire or something to get it off the ground and use the engine hoist (as mentioned above). The hoist will allow you to change the angles and wiggle it in. They are a bear though. I've also tried attaching the TC to the flexplate, and then attaching the trans that way. Either way sucks, regardless.
 
I had the same problem with my 289 and toploader. I think I spent about 3.5 hours getting the two to mate up. Once it was aligned, it went in like KO was behind me!
 
"70_Fastback" said:
How do you guys typically join an engine & tranny, exterior of the vehicle?

I have the 460 sitting on a mobile engine cradle that I made and the C6 resting on my floor jack. I lift up the trans to the block height, but the angles are just not right no matter how much I tilt it, etc., it seems. The T-converter is fully engaged into the pump & the 4 T-converter bolts are through the flywheel holes. But it still doesn't want to go together.

Would it be easier to sit everything on the floor perhaps for alignment purposes? All I know is that it's killing my back trying to lift that trasmission up and wiggle it into place!
Click to expand...

Verify the converters nose size to crank first, if it is the same use a couple of 4in pieces of allthread screwed into the block for
lining up the trans to eng. It should take a little wigging to mate the block dowls to the trans bell.
Also make sure the covertters drain plug has a hole to go into.
 
I've also taken some fine sandpaper to the dowels and shinned them up, then apply a bit of lube to them to aid in getting them in. Sometimes the dowels get rusted or dirt stuck to it, making it a tight fit.
 
"Mach1Rider" said:
Verify the converters nose size to crank first, if it is the same use a couple of 4in pieces of allthread screwed into the block for
lining up the trans to eng. It should take a little wigging to mate the block dowls to the trans bell.
Also make sure the covertters drain plug has a hole to go into.
Click to expand...

I think making some threaded dowls will aid significantly.

And the flywheel has 4 large holes, one clocked next to each bolt holt for the drain plug to reside. So orientation of the converter shouldn't matter. The only one unknown is the snout to crank size.

Thanks.
 
"buening" said:
I've also taken some fine sandpaper to the dowels and shinned them up, then apply a bit of lube to them to aid in getting them in. Sometimes the dowels get rusted or dirt stuck to it, making it a tight fit.
Click to expand...

I will do that as well. The block dowls do have some new black paint on them... but I doubt that is the main factor.
 
"70_Fastback" said:
I think making some threaded dowls will aid significantly.

And the flywheel has 4 large holes, one clocked next to each bolt holt for the drain plug to reside. So orientation of the converter shouldn't matter. The only one unknown is the snout to crank size.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
the sizes IIRC are 1.850" and 1.835" if you have a caliper you can measure the shout on the TC and the ID of the crank.
 
"tarafied1" said:
the sizes IIRC are 1.850" and 1.835" if you have a caliper you can measure the shout on the TC and the ID of the crank.
Click to expand...

If...? IF.. Craig? :wtf

LoL - or course I have calipers. I will check tonight.
 
Question is; can he FIND the calipers? J needs a bigger shop!
 
Is the converter fully seated on the flywheel? Some converters have a "nub" that needs to fit into the crank. If this is too large then the converter will not seat into the crank.
 
Yep, fully seated. I didn't get a chance to mic' anything last night. I ended up heavily drinking beer instead, due to some bad news.
 
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