66gt350
Active Member
"Fast68back" said:
Ooops...sorry. Here's the pics of my new setup:
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What did you get done on your Stang today????
- Thread starter cmayna
- Start date
Ooops...sorry. Here's the pics of my new setup:
SELLERSRODSHOP
Well-Known Member
made some heavy duty engine lifting brackets today.
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One_fast67
Member
I WAS going to rebuild the driver's side door hinges. Only problem was that when I ordered parts, I was referencing the passenger side hinges and it turns out that I have '66 style hinges on the passenger side and '67 style hinges on the driver's side so the parts I ordered won't work. Anyone know if they sell a rebuild kit for the '67 style hinges? I am in need of replacing the two wheels that ride on the torsion bar along with the bushings and pins.
I finally found the correct County Y.O.M. tag for my car and got it put on today. Already had one from a different County and spent the last 4 years trying to find a 14 ( Marion County) on a Blue and White '70-'71 tag with no luck at all ( E-bay, C-List, want ads etc,etc) and last month at a car show outside of town a guy from Port Richey showed up and had N.O.S. unissued tags. Hot Damn, I couldn't pay him fast enough. Just got it back from Tallahassee and installed. As far back as I can remember all of our family vehicles (all Fords inc. my brothers 3 '69 fastbacks) had the 14 tags. So since I was born here, live here and will die here someday I really wanted one for my car. Mission complete..Yee Frickin' Haw !! :yah
Larry G
Member
Yesterday April 17th my Mustang plate
expired so today I put on my new/old 1970 authentic plate.
I bought this plate last year at a show with thoughts of switching from the personalized. Here in Michigan registration fees aren't to high, $45 for the personalized plate a year but the authentic plate is a real deal at $35 for as long as I own the car. There are some restrictions but I can live with them.
I bought this plate last year at a show with thoughts of switching from the personalized. Here in Michigan registration fees aren't to high, $45 for the personalized plate a year but the authentic plate is a real deal at $35 for as long as I own the car. There are some restrictions but I can live with them.
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tarafied1
Well-Known Member
nice
David,
It looks great!
It looks great!
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
Finally got off my behind and took my new (Granada), rotors down to the machine shop to have the hubs turned down .300 to fit my rims. I also decided to go with the shorter late model 4 cyl power brake brake booster in order to move the master cylinder a little close to the firewall. The longer V8 version fits fine, but it sticks the m/c too far forward for my taste (cosmetically). I also got the "new" 4cyl booster all cleaned/detailed and ready to go in.
DougG69
Member
Got my driver's side door unstuck so I don't have to crawl in/out the passenger side... note to self: don't lock the door again until you replace those latches!
Attempted to take my '66 to car club meet last night. I hadn't driven her in like 2-3 wks. Well that plan didn't work out. She started up.. but the starter stayed engaged and made that whining noise. Turned the battery kill off. Left it alone for a few, turned battery back on... starter still trying to start. :rant Turned it back off.
Found my original ignition switch, and put it back in since I remembered it mentioned at one point possible bad ignition switch. Battery turned back on.. nope. Still trying to start. Umm OK, took the key and try to turning the key cylinder thinking maybe that might do something. Nada.
Unhooked the starter from the solenoid. It stopped finally. Ok. Tried starting her up again, she started... holding gas pedal down a little to keep her juices flowing and warm her up... then I noticed smoke from the engine bay.
Turned her off immediately and started looking. The top of the passenger side valve cover looked wet around the cap. Touched it. Sniffed it. Oil. Looks like it leaked a little down the side of the heads onto the headers causing some smoking.
So now I need to replace starter with a mini since I can't seem to find any other reason for the starting issue and figure out why there was oil on top the valve cover.
will it ever end .... :shrug
Found my original ignition switch, and put it back in since I remembered it mentioned at one point possible bad ignition switch. Battery turned back on.. nope. Still trying to start. Umm OK, took the key and try to turning the key cylinder thinking maybe that might do something. Nada.
Unhooked the starter from the solenoid. It stopped finally. Ok. Tried starting her up again, she started... holding gas pedal down a little to keep her juices flowing and warm her up... then I noticed smoke from the engine bay.
Turned her off immediately and started looking. The top of the passenger side valve cover looked wet around the cap. Touched it. Sniffed it. Oil. Looks like it leaked a little down the side of the heads onto the headers causing some smoking.
So now I need to replace starter with a mini since I can't seem to find any other reason for the starting issue and figure out why there was oil on top the valve cover.
will it ever end .... :shrug
That cap is the breather. Are you running a PCV? That allows the pressure in the bottom-end to vent back into the intake. Otherwise you get internal pressure pushing oil out through your breather(s)."Kats66Pny" said:
rollinsmoke65
Member
Well I have been working on cleaning up the engine compartment. It started out as replacing the water pump due to making noise. After 2 bolts snapping that turned into pulling the timing cover also. So while I have everything out and apart I started to clean up the motor and compartment. Here is a pic of the compartment when we picked up the car, and a picture of it where I am at now.
Before
After
Before
After
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Sluggo
Active Member
"Kats66Pny" said:
Your solenoid is sticking. Smack it with a ratchet or something next time. Or, replace it with a better quality part.
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
"Kats66Pny" said:
Kat did you buy O'Reilly's Master Pro solenoid? If so, they also carry a genuine Motorcraft solenoid. The biggest reason I shop at O'Reillys (when I do), is because they carry a pretty extensive amount of Motorcraft stuff. It's the only place I can find it easily (other than the (overpriced!) Ford dealer).
Ponyman66
Yak, yak, yak
Gotcha. If it was about $14, then that's the brand they sold you. If it was between $18-20 then you got a BWD brand. The Master Pro is their "house" brand and has a 1 yr warranty. The BWD's have a lifetime warranty. Not that a warranty means diddly if you get stuck along the road! The Motorcraft solenoid will run about $30, but it can generally be counted on to be a quality solenoid. The cheaper ones can burn the contacts inside pretty easily. When that happens either a) it won't turn over at all; or b) they fuse closed and the starter keeps turning (like in your case).