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Discussion in 'Member's Build Threads' started by Boom, Apr 28, 2017.
Good location for the ECU
Thanks! I didn't want to have to modify the harness and that was just an empty area so I figured it'd be a good spot. I got my air cleaner in. I'm very impressed, especially since it was only $66 with free shipping. I need to have a machine shop mill off the raised lip on the bottom so the assembly sits a bit lower. Probably about 1/2".
20180120_160640 by Brett, on Flickr
20180120_161021 by Brett, on Flickr
20180120_161048 by Brett, on Flickr
20180120_161105 by Brett, on Flickr
That air cleaner is really impressive. I like that there is nothing but smooth, polished metal. Very nice.
Got the 2 lines made and installed for inside the trunk. They are connected to bulkhead fittings there on the side of the trunk floor. I plan to connect them to hardlines which will run up probably through the trans tunnel up to the firewall where I plan to use braided lines again to connect to the regulator and rails.
20180131_194441 by Brett, on Flickr
Who's tank and which pump did you go with?
I consider myself to be fairly safety conscious when I put things together... I did run hard fuel lines up the tunnel thinking safer there than near the rockers incase of side collision, but if a u joint ever lets go, not sure it would be a good idea to have high pressure fuel spewing all over the hot exhaust should the driveshaft take out either of the lines. I hope to relocate mine this summer.
It's all from Aeromotive, they use a Tanks Inc tank and their pump assembly.
I could run them along the rocker, nothing set in stone yet. I know the trans tunnel is already tight due to exhaust and of course the danger of a u-joint letting go. I had this happen on my coupe. After that incident the coupe immediately got a driveshaft safety loop, the fastback will def have one as well.
This is made by "stiffler's" for a fox body. These pics are of my coupe.
20150612_162715 by Brett, on Flickr
20150613_104842 by Brett, on Flickr
20150731_211055 by Brett, on Flickr
Thanks I'm just trying to figure out the best route for me to take when I decide to pull the trigger on doing an EFI swap. I'm down to the Sniper EFI or the MSD. I'm already running a MSD distributor and 6AL box. I bought a syandard stainless tank years ago but have never installed it. That's where I'm having a little trouble figuring the best route to take.
Sorry to muck up your build thread with my questions.
No worries about the questions, thats why we're all here.
Holley makes a drop in tank with an EFI pump for our cars and the Sniper set-up.
Alternatively they also make a special pressure regulator that mounts just outside the tank and sets the pressure right there and has a return port so you only need to run one line the length of the car.
Here is the tank I got, they offer 69-70 too.
Thanks. I was hoping to find a good solution to use my existing new stainless tank that was affordable. Seems that the internal baffles would be the issue. Definitely want an in-tank pump setup.
As long as we're in the muck...
I went with Tanks Inc for my set-up. Less expensive but same quality. Walbro pumps from them too. Powder coated as well. You'll notice that the Holley link shows the EXACT same picture as the Tanks Inc site. Hmmm. Yep, they supply Holley with the component(s). They now offer a floatless sending unit (albeit GM ohms style) that will work with aftermarket gauges which is pretty cool and likely much more accurate and easy to set-up.
Absolutely go with a baffled tank with an internal pump. EFI systems move a lot of fuel fast (return style). Very easy to run a pump dry in a low fuel tank without the baffles which, if done correctly, keep the internal pump pooled in fuel. Plus, by having the pump submerged it runs cooler which extends its life. And typically they run SO MUCH quieter than a pump bolted to the car sheet metal (insulators or not).
I need to install a fuel pressure regulator, plumbing this EFI stuff is a pain. Aeromotive (most all the main bits of the fuel system besides Holley) recommend that the fuel line comes from the tank though a filter and then split and go to the rear of each fuel rail, then the front ends of the rail come out and go into a regulator. The return line comes out the bottom of the regulator and goes back to the tank.
I am looking at getting one of their compact regulators and making a bracket that mounts to the front 2 Carb/TB studs and positions the regulator basically where I have the crossover line at now. Plus I could put a gauge in the port on the regulator and easily verify fuel pressure. Regulator has in/out ports on either side and return out the bottom, gauge fitting is brass in picture. Do you think I'll have room? I know its kind of tight.
Regulator I'm looking at:
20180203_220250 by Brett, on Flickr
20180203_220309 by Brett, on Flickr
It might fit but it won't be pretty, IMHO. That seems a weird way to plumb the system. Using the regulator to hold the pressure back post injectors like that.
Yeah I thought it was strange but thats how bypass regulators work I found out. They only control the pressure between the pump and the regulator, any excess pressure goes out the return line.
The only other option I can see to plumb it is to have the supply line go into one rail, that line comes out like I have it and goes into the other rail, then have the line coming out the second rail into the regulator behind the engine.
Similar to this, only having the crossover line come out the front of the rails instead of a "T" like they have it here:
I got a big box in today from CVF Racing. Shiny I also got a new timing cover from Jegs. I opted not to get the Ford Racing one, hopefully it doesn't bite me in the ass. Now I need a billet fuel pump cover.
20180227_171316 by Brett, on Flickr
20180227_171038 by Brett, on Flickr
Thanks. I'm pretty excited to get started on it. I have to remove the timing cover I have currently on the engine and get a new gasket.
That's a good looking setup, I think it's going to look sharp.