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Progress

"lethal289" said:
it looks really good. what else does it currently need?
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Mainly, it needs the entire interior installed, minus the fiberglass panels. Seats need recovering; installation of the steering wheel, dash pad, gauges, body badges/emblems. A few things under the hood need cleaning up, loose wires, etc.
Most daunting is restoration and installation of the fold-down rear seat.

Not bad I guess except I’ve paid to have done.

Turns out that the only two people who were worth a damn at the old shop, the painter and mechanic, were the first to quit. Both called and warned me of the pending disaster, and they have decided to partner to help finish my car and others in the same situation.

The painter, at least, has been trying to open his own shop; this may just work to both our advantage; I need my car finished, and he needs advertisement...

Dave S. has also offered his help should I get in a bind to finish.
 
"daveSanborn" said:
Hell must be freezing over... it's a bout freakin' time they finished with it!
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An updated response to your comment from last April... It's still very warm there...
 
Dave S. has also offered his help should I get in a bind to finish.
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Without seeing the car firsthand, it's difficult to say for sure, but it appears to me that the car shouldn't have more than a couple days of work left before it's finished. The interior pieces that you've mentioned go together very quickly. Sam's website on the details of the fold-down seat should help anyone who has build-up/installation questions.

I guess the important thing is that your car is out of the "we need new business/money in order to finish other customers car's that have already been paid for" cycle.

Without thinking to much about it.... you do realize that a LOT of experienced classic Mustang owners are going to be assemblying in Myrtle Beach 2 weeks from now. I can't speak for everyone else, but I'm not opposed to spending 4-5 hours on Saturday afternoon (after putt-putt golf at Ron's house while we're all hanging around shooting the bull/drinking beer/eating pig) knocking out some/all of your interior installation. If all of the parts are there, I can see us crossing off a LOT of the remaining items on your punch list. Of course, you'd have to trailer the car down there, but you're a LOT closer to MB than me. I know you already have other plans, but it's another option (and free labor!)
 
"daveSanborn" said:
I can't speak for everyone else, but I'm not opposed to spending 4-5 hours on Saturday afternoon (after putt-putt golf at Ron's house while we're all hanging around shooting the bull/drinking beer/eating pig) knocking out some/all of your interior installation. If all of the parts are there, I can see us crossing off a LOT of the remaining items on your punch list. Of course, you'd have to trailer the car down there, but you're a LOT closer to MB than me. I know you already have other plans, but it's another option (and free labor!)
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Dave, that’s an extremely generous offer. However, I feel I owe a debt to the guys who kept me informed of the shop’s problems and status, and are now out of jobs due to those same problems. Two of these guys worked on my car for two days (without pay) to install as much as possible, and find parts they knew I’d need. As much as I hate paying for the same thing twice, I’ll give these guys as much of my business as I can. Being long-time paint/body/mechanic type guys I know they’re capable, just not classic mustang experts; that title was about the only thing legitimate about the owner…

Our biggest challenge now is identifying all the parts needed to complete the job. Mainly, all the little “mounting/attaching� items that can be purchased as kits from places like NPD, or worse yet, the parts not in reproduction. Do we buy all the specific screw or clip sets we can, or just find similar type items at hardware stores?

Help I may seek from you experts, not necessarily during your MB trip, is to look at the car and help me make a parts list.

Thanks again for the offer.
Gary
 
Re: Progress??

NPD's quote tells me it will cost an additional $2,223.87 to buy the parts I've already paid for once... That doesn't include the two items they don't stock; the "Horn Button Plate" NPD #13A808-1, and the "Air Duct Assembly" #01935-1A.

Anyone know if these items are sold by someone else?

Gary
 
Re: Progress??

"stump" said:
NPD's quote tells me it will cost an additional $2,223.87 to buy the parts I've already paid for once... That doesn't include the two items they don't stock; the "Horn Button Plate" NPD #13A808-1, and the "Air Duct Assembly" #01935-1A.

Anyone know if these items are sold by someone else?

Gary
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Not very knowledgable on the early models, do either one of these look like what you need?

Ebay link #1

Ebay link #2
 
Re: Progress??

"DougG69" said:
Not very knowledgable on the early models, do either one of these look like what you need?

Ebay link #1

Ebay link #2
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Don't know. #2 is also called a "contact plate" but doesn't match the picture in the NPD catalog. This e-bay seller may be as good a place to start, as any. Thanks!
 
Re: Progress??

"stump" said:
Don't know. #2 is also called a "contact plate" but doesn't match the picture in the NPD catalog. This e-bay seller may be as good a place to start, as any. Thanks!
Click to expand...

No problemo.

If that doesn't pan out, you might try this guy:

All Classic Motors

He seems to have quite an inventory of used parts.
 
Checked on the car last night and saw more accomplished in 2 days, at this shop, than in 6 months at the other...
 
Well, I'm up to $2,800.00 in parts. The last $600.00 or so are parts that either where new items I got back with the car that are incorrect, or old parts reinstalled that should have been replaced. Included are the two new wiring harness that melted because a hot wire run through the dash (without a grommet) shorted... DAMN!!

We left it out in the rain the other day and found out that everything leaks; front and back glass, side vents. Not to mention the many places that should have had seam sealer applied...

There goes the money set aside to finish the coupe.
 
Do you have any more details on how you did this? I've had a similar idea in my head for a while (also with Cobalt gauges, since my car has a blue interior), but I assumed I was going to have to trim off the silver bezel on the panel and drop the gauges in from the front. I looks like you've got them mounting from "underneath." I'm not generally in love with the bezel designs I've seen on ebay & elsewhere. The stock panel looks perfect (imo), but everybody wants to try and improve on it.

"stump" said:
Final configuration, using original bezel.

gaugecluster004.jpg


gaugecluster003.jpg
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I have read so many horror stories about guys taking their cars to a shop only having to move it to another one and ending up paying more money for the same repair and or restoration of the same area of the car.

I too had to move the 67 from one shop to another one. I have some things that may be aver my head on the 65, but based on what I've read in several threads and what happened to me, I am determined to do as much of the work as I can on the 65.

There is a shop we do loads of business with in Salt Lake I will likely have repaint the 67 and maybe paint the 65.

Your car looks awesome. I am not a fan of green, but your color choice will really get people's attention and does look good.

Mel
 
"hbar" said:
Do you have any more details on how you did this? I've had a similar idea in my head for a while (also with Cobalt gauges, since my car has a blue interior), but I assumed I was going to have to trim off the silver bezel on the panel and drop the gauges in from the front. I looks like you've got them mounting from "underneath." I'm not generally in love with the bezel designs I've seen on ebay & elsewhere. The stock panel looks perfect (imo), but everybody wants to try and improve on it.
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Those are mounted from the front. The gauges were too hard to see from the rear, and besides, the mount cost an additional $75 of so. I didn't do the work myself but I know it was done with a dremel tool, a little at a time. Sorry I don't have more details...
 
"guruatbol" said:
I have read so many horror stories about guys taking their cars to a shop only having to move it to another one and ending up paying more money for the same repair and or restoration of the same area of the car.

I too had to move the 67 from one shop to another one. I have some things that may be aver my head on the 65, but based on what I've read in several threads and what happened to me, I am determined to do as much of the work as I can on the 65.

There is a shop we do loads of business with in Salt Lake I will likely have repaint the 67 and maybe paint the 65.

Your car looks awesome. I am not a fan of green, but your color choice will really get people's attention and does look good.

Mel
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I'd like to take credit for the color, but to be honest, I wanted a white car... I am, however, coming to like it more as the chrome goes on...

The shop finishing the car now is doing a great job, and I had intended for them to complete the '65 Coupe. However, as I'm paying twice for the Fastback, there's not much left to spend. I may end up doing the same thing; having them paint, and I'll reassmble...
 
"guruatbol" said:
I put cobalt gauges in my 65. I got the Billit bezel. I like having my tach in the dash.

Mel
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Dave S. suggested the same thing with white faces, but I already had the cobalt and a Rally Pac. I didn't want the change anything for fear of causing delays; if I had only known...
 
I need some help finding a way to cover up holes in the taillight panel. I have no idea why they weren't covered when the body work was underway, but they weren't. Anyone have suggestions on a badge, or emblem that would not look to far out of place? The only thing I've come up with is a "289" fender emblem backed by a "High Pro" or "High Output" "V". I hate to do that because it's not a Hi Pro, and I don't even know what the Hi Output is... By chance does anyone make a "2+2" emblem that would fit?

The holes are 4.25", center to center, so it would take at least 4.5" to cover.

Newshop003.jpg


Newshop004.jpg
 
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