It did come dangerously close to you though when it was pulled home. That proximity alone could have had something to do with this.
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1952 F1: The Garage Roommate
- Thread starter Horseplay
- Start date
Clear coat the heads and intake. That stuff is eye candy.
Mark
Mark
Dne'
Well-Known Member
OMG! that is the coolest old truck!! I love the flat heads and those "heads"! Anyway, I'm subscribed!!
dne'
dne'
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
Jealous! My wife and I often talk about buying/building a fat fender pickup.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fst Blk
Well-Known Member
Awesome stuff. Can’t wait to see the progress.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Man has time flown by this year. I don't think I've ever been away from home for work as much as I saw happen this summer. All good though as busy means successful and successful means extra money for the hobby. As long as SWMBO doesn't find out! Anyway...
I spent what little time I did have this summer enjoying the car. I doubt anyone would blame me for that. However, I did sneak off to the garage a bit the latter part of the week to prep for this morning's event. I pulled the motor out of the truck. Time to start in earnest on this project. Going to re-do the front suspension first and weld in a MII IFS. Not sure just yet if it will be bagged or coil-over but leaning to springs right now.
The engine was recently rebuilt and is not much more than an overbore on a stock set-up. I'm sticking to the plan to put a roots style blower on it. Going to tear it down and see about the next steps. Looking to save some coin here as even a full on crazy expensive build would only net maybe 300 hp. Might just do some basic stuff to keep the cost down and focus on spending the budget dollars across the whole build this time. Goal is to be driving this thing in a year or less.
Anyway, here's some pics!
I spent what little time I did have this summer enjoying the car. I doubt anyone would blame me for that. However, I did sneak off to the garage a bit the latter part of the week to prep for this morning's event. I pulled the motor out of the truck. Time to start in earnest on this project. Going to re-do the front suspension first and weld in a MII IFS. Not sure just yet if it will be bagged or coil-over but leaning to springs right now.
The engine was recently rebuilt and is not much more than an overbore on a stock set-up. I'm sticking to the plan to put a roots style blower on it. Going to tear it down and see about the next steps. Looking to save some coin here as even a full on crazy expensive build would only net maybe 300 hp. Might just do some basic stuff to keep the cost down and focus on spending the budget dollars across the whole build this time. Goal is to be driving this thing in a year or less.
Anyway, here's some pics!
So while I've not had much time for the truck I have tried to keep going on it as best as time allowed. I completely tore down the engine and have done a bit of work to the block prior to taking it to the machine shop for additional work. I'll be having it bored a bit bigger and having it cut for larger valves and seats.
I drilled holes in the lifter bores to allow use of a tool to prevent the lifter from spinning int he bore when adjusting the mechanical valve lash. There is a tool designed to hold the lifter from the top but it is a pain to use at best and at worst is a nightmare to get to work. This is the better way to go.
I've also marked the block for porting work. As the valves are offset form the cylinder milling a slight relief in the block surface between the valves and the cylinder helps to improve flow by as much as 30%. I'll be doing this relieving myself with a router and stone bit. I will also be doing both intake and exhaust porting here at home. Should be nice and dirty!
Pics are always fun
I drilled holes in the lifter bores to allow use of a tool to prevent the lifter from spinning int he bore when adjusting the mechanical valve lash. There is a tool designed to hold the lifter from the top but it is a pain to use at best and at worst is a nightmare to get to work. This is the better way to go.
I've also marked the block for porting work. As the valves are offset form the cylinder milling a slight relief in the block surface between the valves and the cylinder helps to improve flow by as much as 30%. I'll be doing this relieving myself with a router and stone bit. I will also be doing both intake and exhaust porting here at home. Should be nice and dirty!
Pics are always fun
One thing I can do on the project while on the road is buy stuff. Been doing that too. This month should be a productive one. I'll be basically building a whole new chassis for it. Aside from the two long rails the rest of the frame will be cut away and all new stuff welded in. I've cobbled together form various sources the bits and such needed to make a custom rear triangulated 4-link and up front a MII style tubular IFS.
Here's a clue to another big part of the chassis design
Here's a clue to another big part of the chassis design
crustycurmudgeon
Well-Known Member
So what was wrong with #1 cylinder?
As
often says, I'm an idiot. There was nothing wrong with the engine. Since I don't remember being high on crack that day my best guess is I didn't have the truck in neutral as I thought and the resistance I felt manually turning the crank was the"slop" running out of the drive train. Seeing as how I rolled it around that day not sure how that could be but anyway. The crank must have some serious amount of dwell occur at the bottom/top of the stroke because in a good degree of rotation that damn piston didn't move! That or maybe I was high on crack. Hard to tell. Out of the truck it spun free as a bird.Truth be told I'm glad I yanked it as a good part of me was hesitant to do much to it. Now that I pulled it I have started in earnest to get rolling on the chassis and engine upgrades.
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
It's going to be bagged?
More accurately, it will be an air suspension not necessarily "bagged" in the general sense of the term. "Bagged" would infer the use of basic air bags and shocks at each wheel. While not 100% locked in, I am leaning toward using Shockwave units. For those that don't know, Shockwaves are a unit that combines a shock and air bag in one. While much cleaner in terms of simple set-up and installation, they are PRICEY. To the tune of 4 times the cost or more of say a standard double-convoluted bag and separate shock. Still working it all out in my mind. While not intended to be a real performance build I still wouldn't mind getting the best handling I can out of it. A separate shock set-up might actually make a difference. Have to research more.
What I do know is it will all be controlled by an Air Ride Performance 3H system. This monitors both pressure and ride height at each wheel. From what I have learned this seems to be the best system out there in terms of technology and function. It will certainly do what I want. Love the look of a fat fendered truck laying on the ground and this will get it there and also allow the truck to be driven under any situation. Speed bumps won't be a problem!
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
Thanks kinda what I was thinking/meant.
The more I researched the more I realized just how broad the offerings and control systems are for air suspensions. A lot of it is marketed toward the younger crowd who run a zillion degrees of wheel camber and want their Hondas dragging on the pavement. Makes it kind of difficult to really find the real gold vs the fool's kind. Lots of crap out there. Even then, once you find quality manufacturers you then need to figure out just what types of equipment meet your specific needs.
I used to deal with a lot of pneumatic systems back in my industrial service days so I've got quite a bit of experience with values and such. Hell, some of the cheap stuff out there utilize Chinese variants of low end industrial valves I am used to for operating air cylinders. The system I went with seems to be very well engineered and thought out. I hope I'm right and the valve bodies and solenoids work well for along time. I really like their positioning sensors. Seem to be very high quality and good design.
Like my mustang I do not want to cut any corners on this build but at the same time, this go around my budget has a bit more restraint. Like the cost of a SBF as compared to a SBC, so it goes for a flathead vs a SBF. Actually, its closer to twice as bad. More pennies need to allocate in that area.
I used to deal with a lot of pneumatic systems back in my industrial service days so I've got quite a bit of experience with values and such. Hell, some of the cheap stuff out there utilize Chinese variants of low end industrial valves I am used to for operating air cylinders. The system I went with seems to be very well engineered and thought out. I hope I'm right and the valve bodies and solenoids work well for along time. I really like their positioning sensors. Seem to be very high quality and good design.
Like my mustang I do not want to cut any corners on this build but at the same time, this go around my budget has a bit more restraint. Like the cost of a SBF as compared to a SBC, so it goes for a flathead vs a SBF. Actually, its closer to twice as bad. More pennies need to allocate in that area.
kb3
Well-Known Member
I too have been contemplating the Shockwave units for a couple of my next builds, my 71 F100 and the yet to be named recent purchase. I like the idea that you still get normal dampening characteristics but have the ability to change ride height. "bagged" vehicles always seem to ride like crap. Glad you may be the guinea pig for our group!
Sure let me potentially waste all that cash!
The limiting factor with the Shockwaves is the available adjustment. It's only realistically a couple inches max (bag portion) from what I have found. So if you want to really "slam" something for show and then pump it up enough to drive home they may not work depending on all the other components and how you have it all set up. With a big fendered old ride you have a better chance of making it work with all that room for the tires. I'm going to put mine all together (sans bags) and see how things look before I decide.
The limiting factor with the Shockwaves is the available adjustment. It's only realistically a couple inches max (bag portion) from what I have found. So if you want to really "slam" something for show and then pump it up enough to drive home they may not work depending on all the other components and how you have it all set up. With a big fendered old ride you have a better chance of making it work with all that room for the tires. I'm going to put mine all together (sans bags) and see how things look before I decide.
kb3
Well-Known Member
You know how it works here, we are great at spending other people’s money. I don’t really want the dropped to the ground/dragging the ground look but do like the idea of dropping it a bit for the slow cruises and being able to raise it for highway/rough road driving. A perfect fit for my 71. The other project could go a different direction.
Well, we will have to wait and see which way I go. Dropping a couple grand on "shocks" is a tough pill to swallow. I could use bags and separate shocks all around for a fourth of that spend. That other $1500 would go a long way toward wheels and tires.
Christmas is early this year for me. Lots of goodies are starting to roll in. Last night the mailman dropped off some steel bits. I'm addicted to both the UPS and FedEx websites these days watching the tracking info on various shipments. I've got the wife thinking all this activity will be the result of my Christmas gift shopping. In a way it is. 
Hoping I will have all the suspension stuff in hand by mid-week. Between now and then I need to get the space in the garage cleared up a bit and the truck frame leveled and at a good height for all the work to come.
Steel bit porn!
Hoping I will have all the suspension stuff in hand by mid-week. Between now and then I need to get the space in the garage cleared up a bit and the truck frame leveled and at a good height for all the work to come.
Steel bit porn!
You’ll finally get to use the TIG.
Mark
Mark