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2001 Cobra No Start

Nice!

Though you did go from needing new coils to dropping engine and talking valve job. Did I miss a chapter somewhere?

Tokicos and not Bilsteins? Bilsteins are pricey and seem to be low in stock everywhere right now.

Doing anything with the rear suspension? That's what I'm elbow deep in right now.

Also, they offer coilover kits that fit onto the struts for these cars. But they aren't super cheap.
 
Took her for her maiden voyage and it was way down on power. Decided to do a compression test and found cylinder 8 all but dead at 75-90 PSI. Shot some oil in the piston and repeated with no change. Writing was on the wall after that. Either a burned valve, broken valve spring, or something valve related. Heads don’t come off in the car so decided to do an engine out and see what I really have. If the cylinder walls look good then a valve job and make a nice cruiser. If it needs bottom end work then I’ll have to make the decision of whether to rebuild or part the car.


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Boom said:
Nice!

Though you did go from needing new coils to dropping engine and talking valve job. Did I miss a chapter somewhere?

Tokicos and not Bilsteins? Bilsteins are pricey and seem to be low in stock everywhere right now.

Doing anything with the rear suspension? That's what I'm elbow deep in right now.

Also, they offer coilover kits that fit onto the struts for these cars. But they aren't super cheap.
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I wanted Bilsteins but found these adjustable Tokicos for 115 a piece. Couldn’t pass it up. Gonna put new Bilsteins in the rear and cut the coils. What should I expect to find maintenance wise back there other than doing new rotors and pads? I think I have a sticking caliper back there so probably do a caliper rebuild.


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Seems like only yesterday you were building that shop. Now it's not only done but has that "worked in" look and a damn lift! When did that show up?
 
There isn't too much for maintenence other then looking at all the bushings. They sell urethane kits for pretty cheap if some are bad.

The cross axis bushings on the spindle/knuckles can be replaced if the bearings are good.

Give a good look over the rear diff cover. It also acts as a mount for the rear of the diff, but is known to crack.

I went all the way into rebuilding the rear subframe. Probably would've been ok with less, but doing any real work requires dropping the unit out of the car.
 
Horseplay said:
Seems like only yesterday you were building that shop. Now it's not only done but has that "worked in" look and a damn lift! When did that show up?
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Best money I have ever spent!! Love my shop. Found a lift from a local guy that had 2 in a semi trailer he had bought. He helped me install the lift and I made a new car buddy in the process lol, it most certainly is a game changer for the shop.


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Boom said:
There isn't too much for maintenence other then looking at all the bushings. They sell urethane kits for pretty cheap if some are bad.

The cross axis bushings on the spindle/knuckles can be replaced if the bearings are good.

Give a good look over the rear diff cover. It also acts as a mount for the rear of the diff, but is known to crack.

I went all the way into rebuilding the rear subframe. Probably would've been ok with less, but doing any real work requires dropping the unit out of the car.
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Yeah, haven’t made it back there yet. Poor car has sit for years so definitely needs to be gone through.


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First time I’ve dropped an engine out the bottom. Phew, bet I could do it 3x faster on the next round… went slow trying not to forget anything.

Trans slipped off the jack and made a mess, but other than that fairly uneventful.

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Looking for tips or tricks or pitfalls on removing the heads. I know I have to remove the timing cover to remove the timing chains. Do I need to line anything up or pin anything?


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That looks like a lot of work. I pulled the valve covers off our 2003 Mach 1 to fix the stripped spark plug issue, I knew then the heads would not come off in the car. Good luck. I am sure there are plenty of Youtube videos to make it go much easier!
 
I don’t know how you got the valve cover off on the drivers side. I tried, but wouldn’t come past the brake booster.


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Think I may have found the issue with the valves sticking. Looks like something had a home here. Gotta get a balancer remover and I’ll get the heads off today to look at the cylinder walls/pistons but I’m optimistic it’s going to be ok.

I pulled out a small piece of fabric and there is a lot of sandy deposits. I’m sure this was keeping the valve open and not allowing it to seat.

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That is quite a bit of dust. Hopefully cleans up without too much hassle.

I don't have a sweet dohc engine like you guys, but even the sohc engine is definitely very snug in the bay.
 
Both heads are off and cylinder walls look great. I can still see the factory cross-hatching. Looks like a valve job and back together.
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Trying to compile a list of must replace while in this deep. Any suggestions?


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I'd probably take a look at the motor mounts. I hear that you need to drop the motor for headers, so if you wanted new exhaust, nows a good time.

Wouldn't be a bad time to consider new cams if you're redoing the heads already. If you're wanting something different.
 
Headers, Cams… man those things are astronomically expensive. 2k for cams… 2k for headers… unreal.

Probably do some underdrive pulleys and call it a day. If I’m spending money like that, I’d go forged rods/pistons with an Eaton swap in mind.


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Yeah, I feel you on the prices. There are 4 cams on your which doesn't help with cost.

I have been eyeballing American Racing Headers, they come with a catted x pipe but are pricey.

I'm really wanting to do a Kenne Bell on my sohc. Theres a company that makes an intake to mount the Eaton to the sohc, but makes you run an aftermarket hood. So that eats up most of the savings vs a KB kit.
 
Fst Blk said:
I don’t know how you got the valve cover off on the drivers side. I tried, but wouldn’t come past the brake booster.


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The brake booster had to come out to get the drivers side cover off. It was not a fun job but there was no way I was going to drop the engine just to install some helicoils!
 
kb3 said:
The brake booster had to come out to get the drivers side cover off. It was not a fun job but there was no way I was going to drop the engine just to install some helicoils!
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I considered moving all that stuff to pull the heads as well. Ultimately, as neglected as the car had been in the last 6 years, I felt engine out would allow me the opportunity to clean the engine and bay and rebuild the suspension and replace the clutch and spend a fortune and… you get the point lol.


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