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Abrahamfh....da welder

Yesterday, I welded my catalytic converter back into the Magnaflow exhaust on our 2003 F250 Diesel truck so I can pass smog - yes, they are smogging diesels! No tailpipe emissions (yet) but look for all the pieces.

I mig welded the cat into the existing exhaust and it went very easily. Minimal spatter.
Here are a couple of pics.
 
"opentrackerSteve" said:
Yesterday, I welded my catalytic converter back into the Magnaflow exhaust on our 2003 F250 Diesel truck so I can pass smog - yes, they are smogging diesels! No tailpipe emissions (yet) but look for all the pieces.

I mig welded the cat into the existing exhaust and it went very easily. Minimal spatter.
Here are a couple of pics.
Click to expand...

That's sweet Steve. Great job.
 
Tony from RPS called that my front RS apron came in so I thought I should practice.

a6cd8a9e-8ea5-b15d.jpg


a6cd8a9e-8eb3-f6a4.jpg


I think I'm ready.
 
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You need to get some very large jaw welding vice grip claps also. Clamp it down nice & snug at each spot weld before welding. Make sure the panels lay flat together for best results.
 
Those are nice abe, but you will need some like this too:
pe165.jpg


And even larger


159205.jpg
 
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"70_Fastback" said:
You need to get some very large jaw welding vice grip claps also. Clamp it down nice & snug at each spot weld before welding. Make sure the panels lay flat together for best results.
Click to expand...

+1 here. Very important !!

If you don't have the clamps or there is no way to clamp the sheetmetal together , ask someone that can push the sheetmetal together with The wooden handle of your hammer for example.Make sure that the sheetmetals lay flat together before welding anything.
 
Abe,
If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they carry a pretty good selection of various styles. The best part is they're pretty inexpensive and you can stock up on a bunch for little cash. They're not the best quality for other things, but they're just fine for welding. You can also cut and modify them for various holding duties and not be worried about ruining them like you would with a more expensive set!
 
You guys are funny:)

After just completing my 2nd welding course (Mig/Tig/SS/GS) at the local JC, I'd never even attempt to use flux core on sheet metal. It's great for thick plate where you need penetration, but doesn't work well on sheet metal. The heat input required to keep the slag on top will quickly warp thinner sheet metal. On the other hand, while mig works great on sheet metal, it doesn't penetrate enough to make structural welds until you get into spray mode, which again has too much heat input to be affective on sheet metal.

Looking at the pictures, it looks like you either didn't have the settings right, or didn't have a good gun angle or stick out. You do need to drag flux to pump heat into the weld bead, otherwise you get all sorts of spatter and porosity. Problem is, all that heat input results in the aforementioned warping of the work piece.

Stick with mig or tig for body work; you'll be happy with the results:)
 
Abe, even with the vise grips & magnets, I still find times I can't get a good clamp. Last time was welding a patch into the area between the rear seat pan and the rear axle tunnel. No way to get a clamp there, and the magnets wouldn't hold well on the angles there. Sorry, no pics.

For times like these, you can go old school, and use sheet metal screws to hold the patch in while you plug weld. Weld, remove the screws, and weld up the holes.
 
Someone mentioned using sheet metal screws.

I have ran around a 20 mile radius looking for that huge clamp pictured in a previous post.

My question is, is it safe to use sheet metal screws to fasten the lower part of the front RS fender apron to the frame rail?
 
i doubt sheet metal screws would bite into the frame rail, and im not sure if i would want to create holes in either. Can you wedge it tight with a block of wood?
 
"abrahamfh" said:
Someone mentioned using sheet metal screws.

I have ran around a 20 mile radius looking for that huge clamp pictured in a previous post.

My question is, is it safe to use sheet metal screws to fasten the lower part of the front RS fender apron to the frame rail?
Click to expand...

Negative...you must weld it together for structural integrity.
 
I think his intent is to use the sheetmetal screws in place of clamping the panel for welding... I've used self tapping sheetmetal screws to secure the bed of my chebby on to 0.060" thick bed supports without issue. I think I used #10 screws with a 5/16 hex head. I don't think the frame rail is much thicker than that, so they could work. Wouldn't the large C clamp from harbor freight work... lastly you could make your own by welding some scrap steel to an existing pair of crappy locking pliers to get you out of a jam...
 
"Midlife" said:
Negative...you must weld it together for structural integrity.
Click to expand...

Sorry Mid, I should have explained myself better.

The intent of the screws was to pull the material together in order to spot weld every other whole then remove the screws to finish her off.
 
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