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Another Project - 71 Torino

Hey Jeff, it might just be the concerned old father part of me writing this but you really should rethink how you fastened those seats to the floor. The way you did it creates a much greater potential for the mounting bolts to shear off. In those rear little box mounts you made that bolt will likely develop fatigue as it can flex between the lower weld point and the top where it gets snugged against the factory seat rail. That clearance hole in the top of the box channel is an issue. I think in the video you mentioned maybe you should have welded up at the top as well. At minimum if using this design you should. At the front, that little round spacer is not good at all. The actual surface area to which the seat is clamped down is limited to the very small surface area of the top and bottom of that spacer. To make it worse, that tiny surface area is surrounding a hole in the rail (and floor panel) that the bolt passes through. These areas will likely fatigue crack quickly as well. In a stock situation, look how much surface contact the base of the rails makes with the floor. The mounting bolts clamp the two together spreading the load across a broader, stronger area. Just getting in and out of the seat will quickly challenge your set-up over time as lateral force is applied. Same with every turn, start and stop while driving. Safety first, as they say.
 
Hey Jeff, it might just be the concerned old father part of me writing this but you really should rethink how you fastened those seats to the floor. The way you did it creates a much greater potential for the mounting bolts to shear off. In those rear little box mounts you made that bolt will likely develop fatigue as it can flex between the lower weld point and the top where it gets snugged against the factory seat rail. That clearance hole in the top of the box channel is an issue. I think in the video you mentioned maybe you should have welded up at the top as well. At minimum if using this design you should. At the front, that little round spacer is not good at all. The actual surface area to which the seat is clamped down is limited to the very small surface area of the top and bottom of that spacer. To make it worse, that tiny surface area is surrounding a hole in the rail (and floor panel) that the bolt passes through. These areas will likely fatigue crack quickly as well. In a stock situation, look how much surface contact the base of the rails makes with the floor. The mounting bolts clamp the two together spreading the load across a broader, stronger area. Just getting in and out of the seat will quickly challenge your set-up over time as lateral force is applied. Same with every turn, start and stop while driving. Safety first, as they say.
So let me start by saying thank you for your concern. I didn't show it in the video but i did indeed go back and put welds at the top section of the bolt as well to reinforce them.

As far as the hole, and fatigue areas they are reinforced for the stock bench and at the end of the video i mention using the middle bracket across the tunned. Which also have a reinforcement in it for the whole. So that shouldn't be a big issue,

So i guess a bigger space does need to be made for the front that's about 1/4" to really spread the weigh distribution there, so i may fab something up there. Appreciate in the input and concern
 
Did some quick patches the keep the water out of the interior. Going to have to do quarters at one point so didnt want to get too details on the inner/outer wheel wells

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Previous Owner did some really bad patch work, put a piece over top of the rusty frame rail so I am cutting it out and patching it up as best I can to give it better structure. I already replace the bottom section before doing this part. Have a lot of clean up to do and some more patching of course

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bummer. I have never done a windshield like that. only 60's with the rope trick. Is it glued in? I think the 69 Mustang is like the Torino rather than my 67
 
bummer. I have never done a windshield like that. only 60's with the rope trick. Is it glued in? I think the 69 Mustang is like the Torino rather than my 67
yes sir, its a glue in style. I dont know if ill do it or have it done.....Just sucks breaking new glass and wasting money
 
Glue-in install is so much easier than the old school gasket and rope trick method. As long as the metalwork around the perimeter is right not much to screw up as the glass literally just lays down into the opening.
 
if I ever get to the 69, it will need a windshield. But that is one of the least of it's problems. After seeing Jeff's work on the Torino I am sure I can save my 69 but wow that's a lot of work!
 
Removed the AC controls for my 3d printed cluster and centered everything. Printing it in A grey carbon fiber PETG.
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