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Anyone know how to make Dynamite sticks?
- Thread starter tarafied1
- Start date
tarafied1
Well-Known Member
I don't need adjustable unless that makes it easier.
apollard
Active Member
"gotstang" said:
When turning with brakes on, it operates exactly as you stated, one side continues to sequence, while the other sequences once and holds. This is controlled by the car's flashers and turn signal switch, so the boards (one for each side, although Craig only needs one).
Use electrolytics for everything but the small bypass caps (pins 3&11). Pretty much the only way to get large values cheaply, and they work better in timing apps due to the low equivilent resistance.
Cap Values:
Pins 6&8 - 1 uf electrolytic
Pins 1&2 - 10 uf elec.
Pins 12&13 - 10 uf elec.
The original circuit I started from used the 100k pots rather than resistors, so when I breadboarded it, I left it like that. I didn't change to resistors when I built the boards, because I could then change the timing if I wanted. Also, the timer is very sensitive to minor variations in caps & resitors in the timing circuit (unless you use high dollar 1% jobs), so trimming it in is usually required to make the two sides match. Buy good timmers, rather than the el cheapos. They'll withstand the rough enviroment.
I thought I had posted the link to the guy I got the original circuit from, but see that I did not. Anyway, it might be easier to read, although it doesn't have the MOSFET mod:
http://www.gofastforless.com/electrical/lights.htm
That guy built his own flasher also. I found I could mod an off the shelf electronic unit to get he timing I needed for my LEDS (the acceptable rate is 60-120 flashes / minute, I wanted the low end, rather than the middle rate where most units flash)
I would leave the one you do for Craig adjustable, because he has to adjust it to match the one good side he has now. Look pretty funny if the brake lights sequenced at different rates.
apollard
Active Member
"gotstang" said:
Noticed a few things:
the drawing doesn't have the triggers connected between R1 & C1. With out this, the timer won't start at all.
Pins 12&13 s/b connected between R3 & C3
Also, for the 556, I bought the higher temp versions. Trucks can get pretty hot, and auto OEMs always spec 100-125C for thier chips.
One more thing - while mine are out, I hooked it up to some 1157 bulbs. Even with the brake lights on for a few minutes, the MOSFETS only heated up a little, still able to touch them. BUT, it was 60 degrees in my shop, so when it's 120 in the trunk, they'll still need a heatsink. A few square inches should do it though.
I love MOSFETS, also using them in my fan controller I built. I'm a DIY freak. Wonder why my projects take so long?
daveSanborn
Active Member
This is some really amazing work guys.... How much money is involved in building one of these sequential flasher units?
apollard
Active Member
"daveSanborn" said:
Not really sure, since I had a lot of it already, but I'd guess the two boards I built run < $20 in parts. If you want to run lights instead of LEDs, you need a heatsink, probably 1-2 per board. So, likely <$25 for two 3 bulb units.
Then you need a case, unless you go my route and put in LED arrays and use the taillight housing as the case. A case runs ~5 bucks apiece. Then if you want fancy conncetors instead of splices... you get the idea.
Labor is the big cost here, takes about 30 minutes to build and test each board, if you are an experienced builder. 1-2 hours if not.
Between the boards and my homebuilt LEDs (the LEDs alone were $50), I don't want to calculate how many hours I've spent. Could've bought the parts vendor ones and saved myself mucho time. But, I really didn't like the look of thiers, and wanted more control. My LEDs are equidistant from the lens and aimed at the line of sight. Gives a more uniform look. I also chose the LEDs to avoid that polkadot look, which is the result of using low brightness, narrow beam LEDs (read: cheaper). I'll try to borrow a video camera so you can see the finished look.
I started looking at LEDs for safety reasons - and while I was at it...
"daveSanborn" said:
That's the cheap (and halfway easy part). So long as you order from an electronics supply house, the parts for a pair would only run you $11. The really stupid thing about it is that project boxes to put them in are $6 each or so, and the bare circuit board to put it all on was $8 (only thing I'll buy at RadioSh!t). Why the miscellaneous crap is 10x the price of the electronic parts baffles me.
All done, it's a ~$40 project for us electronics types.
I don't know if this is opening a can of worms on myself, but what the heck...if you guys are interested, speak up, now's the time for me to order stuff in mass quantity.
Sluggo
Active Member
Lemme know when a turnkey setup is ready for purchase. Gonna go take some advil.
apollard
Active Member
OK, tried out the SCR circuit that Craig posted. It works, but it has a narrower adjustment range (based on the SCR trigger voltage and current). It also has a higher voltage drop across the SCR, since the on resistance is 10x higher (unless you get mega$$ SCRs).
It's equal or greater cost (SCR & SIDIAC are expensive). So, overall, if you were starting from scratch, either would be a good choice bulbs. For LEDs, I'd stick with the 556/MOSFET circuit for the low voltage drop (high brightness LED output is very voltage sensitive).
Yeah, it's :dh , but I wanted to see if I could get it to work.
It's equal or greater cost (SCR & SIDIAC are expensive). So, overall, if you were starting from scratch, either would be a good choice bulbs. For LEDs, I'd stick with the 556/MOSFET circuit for the low voltage drop (high brightness LED output is very voltage sensitive).
Yeah, it's :dh , but I wanted to see if I could get it to work.
Well, here's the latest revision I got the triggers re-wired, R1 & R2 replaced with pots, pins 12 & 13 re-wired, and decided that the layout needed to be tweaked just a hair, because I'm OCD. :dumas
apollard, I can't thank you enough...thanks especially for taking the time to test it with 1157's and the advice about the high temp 556, I know this took quite a bit of effort on your part and I owe you a beer or 3 at the next SF bash. :wor
I went ahead and started a BOM with all high-temp, 25V-rated, HD components, heatsinks for everything and an IC socket...got to have at least a little bit of overkill or you wouldn't know I was involved.
The results of the SCR circuit are interesting...I told my dad about this whole deal and he said that's how he would have done it 30 years ago, then immediately suggested that MOSFETs ought to work better, lol.
Without further adieu, the main attraction:
Adieu,
Kyle
PS: Sluggo, how bolt in do you want it? This is pretty much down to hooking up 5 wires and hiding the boxes...it could certainly be prettier and a more direct install but not having seen the stock Shelby setup, I cain't begin to figure out how to copy it. FWIW, with the exception of what will probably be an ugly-a$$ container, the install will be the same as most of the commercially made electronic units; they require splicing too, as far as I've seen.
PPS: These smileys ain't exactly perfect, if ya know what I mean...
apollard, I can't thank you enough...thanks especially for taking the time to test it with 1157's and the advice about the high temp 556, I know this took quite a bit of effort on your part and I owe you a beer or 3 at the next SF bash. :wor
I went ahead and started a BOM with all high-temp, 25V-rated, HD components, heatsinks for everything and an IC socket...got to have at least a little bit of overkill or you wouldn't know I was involved.
The results of the SCR circuit are interesting...I told my dad about this whole deal and he said that's how he would have done it 30 years ago, then immediately suggested that MOSFETs ought to work better, lol.
Without further adieu, the main attraction:
Adieu,
Kyle
PS: Sluggo, how bolt in do you want it? This is pretty much down to hooking up 5 wires and hiding the boxes...it could certainly be prettier and a more direct install but not having seen the stock Shelby setup, I cain't begin to figure out how to copy it. FWIW, with the exception of what will probably be an ugly-a$$ container, the install will be the same as most of the commercially made electronic units; they require splicing too, as far as I've seen.
PPS: These smileys ain't exactly perfect, if ya know what I mean...
Last edited by a moderator:
apollard
Active Member
Drawing looks good. Go with the IC socket for sure - if you're like me, at least one solder bridge or miss wired resistor will get through. :wm?
The standard 556 is pretty tough, but trying to replace one is even tougher.
Intersting about the SCRs, I had no idea they had that kind of resistance, not much better than a std bipolar trans. MOSFETs are used in so much these days it's really driven the advances in them.
The standard 556 is pretty tough, but trying to replace one is even tougher.
Intersting about the SCRs, I had no idea they had that kind of resistance, not much better than a std bipolar trans. MOSFETs are used in so much these days it's really driven the advances in them.
daveSanborn
Active Member
???????????
I'm having a hard enough time following you guys..... and now you've switched gears and have started talking about sexually infected mental illness suffering cross-dressers?
WTF? Did I miss something?
apollard
Active Member
"daveSanborn" said:
:lol
As soon as I hit the post button, I thought uh-oh, that's gonna get some interesting repsonses.
op opNo surprise yours was the first, tho-
annnd...the soldering, it hath commenced! This has turned out to be a really nice project for days when we've got a 40mph wind blowing sideways.
I'd like to take a moment to give a shout out to Radio Shack with a heartfelt F-YOU...hookup wire is supposed to be SOLID, if I knew I wanted to spend hours trying to cram regular (stranded) wire into little holes, I wouldn't have paid $7 for the privilege. :rofl
On the flip side of that, I'm real d#mn good at tinning wire now. :rpmg :craz
I'd like to take a moment to give a shout out to Radio Shack with a heartfelt F-YOU...hookup wire is supposed to be SOLID, if I knew I wanted to spend hours trying to cram regular (stranded) wire into little holes, I wouldn't have paid $7 for the privilege. :rofl
On the flip side of that, I'm real d#mn good at tinning wire now. :rp
mg :craz
apollard
Active Member
"gotstang" said:
Buy high quality telephone wire. Different colors, easy to strip, and solid core.
You can use good quality cat 5 /6 wire in a pinch. But, it's is twisted badly- so I usually buy telephone wire.
apollard
Active Member
"apollard" said:
Well, the insanity of the holiday season got in the way, but circuit board #1 is basically complete now. I need to inspect it again, but I think I should be able to put power to it at my first opportunity.
Only thing is, I pulled a big bonehead and as a result, it's UUUUGLY, but it ought to work, I hope.
I hope I don't let the magic smoke out.
PS: There will be proof, even if it turns out to be proof of how dead it is, LOL.
Only thing is, I pulled a big bonehead and as a result, it's UUUUGLY, but it ought to work, I hope.
I hope I don't let the magic smoke out.
PS: There will be proof, even if it turns out to be proof of how dead it is, LOL.