• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Back for re-restoration;)

Thanks again Terry!, Funny, the extent of our driving is usually to a local car "show", however the tollway that we use is 75 mph, I don't think I'd be doing that speed(never know), so I guess low end is equally as important for take off, for once I'd like to be able to smoke the tires! that may sound silly and I probably wouldn't do it very often if at all, and I'd like for both tires to burn! lol I had a GTO clone in my younger years with a posi, but if I got on it, the rear wheels would hop; never figured that out, but I didn't much then. So, maybe positrac is overrated for a daily driver, just something else to go wrong. I'm going to have to think about this~ ;)
 
Oh no. You need to be able to lay down twin strips of rubber when needed. That is a given. A 3.50 gear with a good differential like that TruTrac will have you smokin' those hides whenever you feel the need. Anything less is simply not acceptable.
 
I have the stock gears from a C code 3 spd car behind my T5. I had a TKO 600 in my 65 with 373 gears and both are comfortable on the highway. The 67 is a bit slower off the line.

Mel

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
Naw, they're just regular every day 67 Mustang brakes, nothing special, but the old drum brakes work just fine;)
 
Agreed that with those ratios you probably want to stick with 3.50-3.55. I have the Modern Driveline t5 with 2.95 1st and .63 OD and a 3.55 rear gear. I wish I had gone a bit higher numerically on the rear, but it may be just right for yours.
 
Thanks Crusty, looks like I'll be using one of your ratios.

With thinking about the diff out of the way, Now, I've been on the computer off n on looking at clutch pedal, you know, hydraulic vs cable decision. Modern driveline seems to have good prices and everything at one store. I've read pros n cons on each. I'm still going to use my long tube headers for now, so clearance could be an issue? I like the looks of the hydraulic, but would like to hear/see what the consensus is? So, what say you~ guys? ;)
Of course my Stang is gutted and have the brake clutch assembly on my workbench. Still need to order a clutch pedal and the bearing kit from Mustang Steve.

Whatever decision; hydraulic vs cable, is whatever coming through the firewall going to interfere with the wiring looms coming through?
 
Clutch pedal doesn't come close to the wiring ports on the firewall.
 
Using the MOD hydraulic master things get pretty tight up in that corner of the firewall. Both Ken and I went this route but I don't have a brake booster to complicate the matter. Not sure about Ken. He will chime in I'm sure.

I used a hydraulic throw-out bearing instead of a slave cylinder set-up and like it. The slaves add to the complexity and can be a real pain with header clearance etc. I used a Tilton 6401 (I believe) which is what MOD sells too. After this time on the road I'm thinking the volume of the MOD master is close to just enough for this bearing. I plan to swap it out for a Wilwood that will push just a bit more fluid for next season. I want limited pedal travel. Quick shifting don't ya know.
 
As Terry said, I went with all Modern Driveline components. They were great to work with and everything fit as described. Bruce (at Modern) talked me out of the hydraulic throw-out unit as he felt the external slave was a better choice at that time. Mind you it was 9 years ago. I have experienced zero issues with the set up over the years and am quite happy with the way the clutch operates. I do have shorty headers so I can’t speak to any interference between the external slave and long tube headers. I do have a power brake booster, all fits well.

79550332c0b56e7023a20c48c5a03c7a.jpg
 
Thank you for the pic kb3~ yeah, woohoo, looks pretty tight alright. OK, I'll order all the stuff after Christmas, heading to Philedelphia to see our daughter attending PCOM (med school), when back can order a boat load of parts.

So, in that pic, are is the wiring loom still coming through the same original holes. One hose for the washer fluid and the other the front wiring harness.
be back!
 
I don't remember if we used the stock wire hole or not....been way too long for me to pull that from my brain. I do not have a washer fluid line as this is a 65 and did not have the foot pump like the 67. While it looks tight, everything fits and is fairly accessible.
 
I probably wouldn't remember either about things I've done on my projects, or anything for that matter~;) I'd like to do away with the foot pump, mine never worked anyway, perhaps an electric washer system, no worries for now about that.
thanks;)
 
Dne' said:
I probably wouldn't remember either about things I've done on my projects, or anything for that matter~;) I'd like to do away with the foot pump, mine never worked anyway, perhaps an electric washer system, no worries for now about that.
thanks;)
Click to expand...
I did away with the whale washer system. I drive it so seldom when the weather is bad. A lot less clutter. I also filled in my cowl vents but I know you are not doing body work.

So were all your suspension components OK?
 
Thanks John, feelings mutual about the "whale washer", I'll just away with it. I didn't drive it very often even at its peak~ lol "Ok, it's 72 outside, no chance of rain, let's go for a spin!" LOL
 
Sent all my electrical wiring to Midlife today, nice to know it's in good hands! He obviously keeps records of everything! I'm terribly at record keeping! Nov. 13, 2008 is when he went over my under the dash wiring the first time! This is the longest I've ever had a car of any kind!
What a guy!!! ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top