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Boom's 68 fastback

They likely aren't as slim as they appear in the pics as the tries settles into the shaped "ramp". Look about like mine but I can't make out the size from the pic. Just enough sidewall to provide a comfortable ride and plant the rear tires but stiff enough for hard cornering.
 
Thanks. A bit classier then cinder blocks or wood. Super lightweight.

I tried welding on the underside but ended up getting a bunch of slag burning me. Got a new full welding jacket on the way. Apron just wasnt enough.

Gonna clean up the welds on the underside with a grinder, and prep the tran tunnel for POR15.

I plan to do 2 more welding parts on the car. I want to add the MTF toolbar and SoTs frame connectors with the built in mount for the 3 link I one day plan to get.

Once the welding done I can finish coating the underside and start installing interior bits.
 
Boom said:
The tires are 235/45R17s up front and 275/40R17s out back
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ok so doing the math- a more traditional 235/60 R15 would have a 1.388" taller sidewall, or 33% more. Hmm, I guess I'm still stuck in the 60s, after all I have been looking at mine for over 50 years.
 
Mach1 Driver said:
ok so doing the math- a more traditional 235/60 R15 would have a 1.388" taller sidewall, or 33% more. Hmm, I guess I'm still stuck in the 60s, after all I have been looking at mine for over 50 years.
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Nothing at all wrong with the look of taller side wall tires. Most muscle cars look good that way. BUT, the modern combo of larger diameter wheels and short sidewall rubber makes a BIG difference in driving performance. 17" wheels are the best of both worlds on our old cars.
 
Horseplay said:
Nothing at all wrong with the look of taller side wall tires. Most muscle cars look good that way. BUT, the modern combo of larger diameter wheels and short sidewall rubber makes a BIG difference in driving performance. 17" wheels are the best of both worlds on our old cars.
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I don't doubt your reasoning, I just prefer the traditional look, and I've been driving on that type of tire all this time so I'm not missing anything when I drive my Mustang... but undoubtedly I would notice the difference if I put those big clunky tires on my C5.
 
Picked up a new tool for the garage today. Need to get a few more pieces before I can use it tho. Got a pretty good deal on it I feel.

20200301_192437.jpg

Haven't done much else to the car lately. Been slowly cleaning the under side where the new floors were welded. Welding the lip from the lap and such. I almost have the loan I used to buy this paid off too. Should be able to finish that off next month or so, no rush.
 
Been neglecting the car for awhile. Finally got around to working on it a bit.

I pulled the old C4 transmission out. Smoothest tran pull ever. All I had was my long reach low profile floor jack, so I was a bit concered; it went just fine though.

20200606_155637.jpg

Already got a buyer lined up to get the old C4.

I started a thread about the various manual transmission options. I'm all but certain I'm getting a tko, but haven't bought one yet. I did order a flywheel and block plate. Those will go with anything so I can still change if something comes up.

I need to clean up the underside where the transmission was. I also want to try and get the fuel lines run while I've got everything out.

More to come, hopefully not as long between updates!
 
Been clenaibg up the transmission tunnel and bellhousing area. I plan to clean it all up and coat with some por15. I alsi need to throw my subframe connectors on. Ive read some peopke say only to do it with the car fully loaded, i.e. trans installed. Do you think that'll make a big difference? The cars on blocks under all 4 wheels
 
I welded my whole chassis up when the car was a bare shell with it blocked up at four corners where the weight would be distributed as if sitting on wheels. I have experienced nothing that makes me think something is "off" with the car now. It tracks straight as an arrow and corners/handles excellently. I think you'll be just fine doing it with the trans out.

I'd do a a bit more than just POR 15. To me that's just a "substitute" for a 2K epoxy in many ways. What will actually make a noticeable difference is to spray on a semi-flexible material like a bedliner or a product like Lizardskin. They aid in reducing vibration and road noise and can beyond acoustic benefits actually help to shield exhaust temps too. They are relatively cheap and easy to apply too. You'll likely only ever do anything under there this one time why not do the best job you can for affect and lasting durability?
 
Boom said:
Been clenaibg up the transmission tunnel and bellhousing area. I plan to clean it all up and coat with some por15.
Click to expand...
I recently saw a video by a guy that made a small salt fog test tank in his garage and tested a dozen major brands, POR 15 among them. This is a good way to accelerate a paint life test- we had a big tank a work. What came out the best (by far) was Master Series Silver and their AG111. This video completely sold me on Master. I tried the link to the youtube video but it is now unavailable. It was a really neat test. Here's the link, maybe it will become available again;
.
 
I will look into some of the other options. I already have the back half done in POR15. I had planned to go over it with some sort of undercoating/bedliner once everything underneather is done.

I found a video similar i imagine to the one you linked, Mach. I have heard some mixed reviews on POR15, alot seems to be down to preparation. As is anything with chemicals.

I figured I'd be ok doing it with the trans out. Its just nice to hear others have done similar.
 
FWIW, one guys experience. I bought a small trial type POR15 kit way back when it first became the "rage". I used their metal prep stuff and followed the directions and used it on the inside trunk drop downs for the bottom couple inches. Used it on top of 2K epoxy primer. It went on and dried and is still there. I also brushed some on a test piece of metal so I could "test" it. I found the epoxy to be more resistant to efforts to scratch off mechanically. Not saying it won't be durable in a typical application, just that the sprayed on 2K epoxy seemed "better". I will say without a doubt that spraying the epoxy with a gun was a WHOLE LOT easier and delivered a better finish.
 
I'll look into some sprays. Now that I have a good compressor its an option.

I ordered the tko bellhousing and mounting bolts last night. I'm gonna need to get a dial indicator to check the runout. Hopefully everything is within spec.
 
Got the flywheel and bellhousing mounted up. Was able to borrow a dial indicator. I plan to check that out tomorrow.

I coated the bellhousing area in everyone's favorite por15. Looks good, just need to clean up the transmission tunnel some more and coat that, too.

20200618_185333.jpg

I need to look into why some of my pictures post upside down. They're normal on my phone and when I select them, but once it loads on the forum they flip upside down half the time.
 
Got my air cleaner lid back. Hes suggesting I have him do the valve covers too.

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My coworker has a powder cost set up at his dads place.

Also had him coat this random pony I had sitting around.

20200622_083939.jpg
 
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