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Boom's 68 fastback

Did you make the pony, I'm looking for the codes to cut one out on our work's Laser table or my son's plasma table.
 
No it was picked up at a swap meet a few years back. The buddy that coated these has a cutting table, too.

Picked up an extension for the dial indicator, might get around to that tonight.
 
Been lazy lately. Did manage to snag a new project engine. Been cleaning it up. Lots of interesting features.

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I certainly hope you are not to going to swap that into a Ford! Yes, they are cheap and easy to create good horsepower numbers, but man they have to be one of the ugliest engines ever built! Fortunately the aftermarket has come up with some cool ideas to hide those coil pack.
 
No theres not a chance this is going into a Ford. I have toyed with putting it into my Iroc, but I'd need a new transmission.

I had been watching it on craigslist for awhile and this weekend when I checked they had lowered it to $250 complete with harness and ecm!! I felt I couldn't pass that deal up.

Plans are to clean it up and put it on a cradle for now.
 
I sure wish Ford would make a traditional small block like the LS. All the modern metallurgy combined with great architectural webbing support like done in the LS makes an unbelievably rugged and durable block. Damn near impossible to break 'em with boosted power. Instead we get the Coyote which is like it in many ways but so much larger in physical size and expensive to build. The new 7.3 is nice though.
 
Finally got around to working on the fastback again.

Drilled out the holes for the fuel tank and mounted it using 1/4" nuts and bolts. Sealed it with a strip of window weld around the opening.

Found out my pop open gas cap isn't gonna work :mad: Apparently there was a run of these made in Chimexicowan that had a 69 base instead, which is too big for the 68 panel. Might order another one and hope this guy can read numbers when assembling it. I bought it so long ago theres no chance of a return.

I also got around to melting on the subframe connectors ive had sitting around for a couple years. Global West tubular ones. Gonna clean the welds up a bit and recoat those areas with por15.

I'm looking at that newfangled TKX. Anyone play with that yet?
 

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Coated one half of the underside and trans tunnel with por15 up to the trans bracket. Plan on doing the other side in the morning. Was looking at how to route the fuel lines. Need to get some 45* fittings and run it inside the subframe connector. Might go through the transmission bracket like the drivers side originally had.

Need to get a vent line sorted also. Might see about making a hose at work if we have the fitting.

Once the fuel lines are sorted up to the engine, it'll be battery and cable time.
 
Ordered a roll of that copper alloy tubing to run for the fuel lines. Got a couple 90* fittings for the other side of the bulkhead where the lines pass to under the car.

Also picked up a flaring kit for 37* flares. Always nice to get a new tool.

Small update, but its progress.
 
Someone left some goodies at my door. I already started routing the one hardline. Gonna route the other one tomorrow hopefully.

Spent most of the evening counting my pennies to make sire I had enough to order everything else needed to finish the fual system. AN fittings and hoses add up quick. Then throw in a fuel filter and a good regulator :eek:

I'm running the feed line from the tank up to where I'm gonna mount the filter on the inside of the passenger front subframe. Itll be AN hose from there up to the Y fitting just under the export brace.

I plan to route the return hardline next to the feed line and have it connect right into the regulator which I also plan to mount under the export brace.

Have to wait for more parts again :(
 

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It's no joke how quick things add up when buying that stuff. AN fittings basically start at $10 for the simplest, most common and rocket up from there. I found it cheaper in the end to buy bulk on a lot of them (45, 90, etc.). Shop around and you can get bags of 5 and such.

You've reminded me I need to order a kit from Eastwood for my (their) flaring tool with the head and blocks to do 37 fittings. Anyone doing hard lines needs to buy their tool. Like their fender rolling tool, the double flaring tool price has dropped considerably. It is a "must-have" in my book.
 
I've been looking at their flaring kit. Its super nice looking. I got the cheap kit for now since I'm using the copper alloy lines that are super easy to bend.
 
I've been looking at their flaring kit. Its super nice looking. I got the cheap kit for now since I'm using the copper alloy lines that are super easy to bend.
I get it. I have made the switch and do everything in SS now and those handheld tools just can't do the job. It is really nice to clamp the tool in a bench vise and just walk up, insert a bit of tubing and wham bam double flare done like that. Add in my homemade tubing straightener set-up and I can crank out some lines! Now if I can only remember to put the damn fittings on before flaring every time! :mad:
 
Yeah, ive made perfect flares and then realized I forgot to put the fitting on....so many times.

Only thing I don't like about that eastwood tool is it can't be done on the car and the sleeve/doe is pretty long so won't work on small curvy bits.

Summit says Saturday my junk should be here. Thatll be a nice surprise.

This should be everything to completely finish the fuel system.

Then on to wiring :rolleyes:
 
Making the flare and forgot the fitting...sounds so familiar.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A605FN met Tapatalk
 
Only thing I don't like about that eastwood tool is it can't be done on the car and the sleeve/doe is pretty long so won't work on small curvy bits.


Then on to wiring :rolleyes:

I have a nice handheld Mastercool hydraullic flare tool that makes very nice flares and is portable. It can't flare on tight curves however.
 
You've reminded me I need to order a kit from Eastwood for my (their) flaring tool with the head and blocks to do 37 fittings. Anyone doing hard lines needs to buy their tool. Like their fender rolling tool, the double flaring tool price has dropped considerably. It is a "must-have" in my book.
That's a fine tool and I was set to buy it until Zray (a high profile poster on another forum) suggested the Mastercool 71475 flare kit. It can be used on the car whereas the Eastwood needs to be in a vice. I'm not sure whats shakin' as far as price goes recently, but I'm guessing the Mastercool is more expensive.
 
Let's keep the thread hijack rolling!

That Mastercool kit is nice. A lot for the money but its a good amount of money. About $100 more. The 37 degree AN fitting bits are about another $70. If you catch Eastwoods frequent sales (I get random sales emails literally everyday now. Usually multiple) you can save 10% of more on their stuff and come away with the unit and AN bits in total for about $250 vs Mastercool at around $350.

If you see yourself doing some on car stuff I can see an argument for the Mastercool but for a hobby guy restoring or modifying cars like me I'm making all new lines each time so using a bench set-up is not a detriment. I've yet to run into situation where I couldn't fab the line and then take it to the car and install it complete. Besides, I can use the workout flaring SS manually provides!
 
I looked up that master cool one. They have multiple versions of that kit. The one with just the an fittings is about $265. It comes with a case too, which is always nice.

Summit is shipping everything here today except for the regulator which won't be here till Tuesday :rolleyes:.

I'm thinking of making a small "L" bracket and hanging it from the export brace bolts to mount the regulator and the "Y" vs drilling holes in the firewall. What do you guys think?
 
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