-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
Boom's Boosted Bullitt
- Thread starter Boom
- Start date
kb3
Well-Known Member
hence the word "theoretical" As in perfect world, no flex!
Got my exhaust kit in today. Very well packaged.
I do have a slight complaint, I wasn't super surprised since I saw one review that mentioned this, but nothing from Borla themselves. The kit is 2.5 except right at the connection with the mid pipes its 2.25. Thats what the factory pipes were.
Slightly annoying, but ill pick up a tailpipe expander and order new 2.5 connectors.
Even came with a hat!
I do have a slight complaint, I wasn't super surprised since I saw one review that mentioned this, but nothing from Borla themselves. The kit is 2.5 except right at the connection with the mid pipes its 2.25. Thats what the factory pipes were.
Slightly annoying, but ill pick up a tailpipe expander and order new 2.5 connectors.
Even came with a hat!
Got a few more packages today. A new crossmember that ties in with the front diff bolts, this was a change the factory did for the 03-04 models. My IRS is from an 01.
Got a handful of new hardware for mounting. I also got new urethane bushings for the subframe itself. More bushings to come!
I also started taking apart the IRS to get a better look at what needs replaced. I gave it a good pressure wash and went over some areas with a small needle scaler to remove some of the flaky paint. I need to hit it with a wire wheel or so to clean off the rust before painting.
Got a handful of new hardware for mounting. I also got new urethane bushings for the subframe itself. More bushings to come!
I also started taking apart the IRS to get a better look at what needs replaced. I gave it a good pressure wash and went over some areas with a small needle scaler to remove some of the flaky paint. I need to hit it with a wire wheel or so to clean off the rust before painting.
Removed the rubber subframe bushings today. Wasn't as bad as some people made it seem. I did have a special tool that came with the Maximum motorsports kit I got, so that definitely helped.
Here's the tool set up to remove the first bushing
The threaded rod died on the last bushing. Hopefully can make this work if need to install the new ones
The old bushings look dreadful, bit I guess they were forced out. (Bonded rubber into the sleeve)
Tomorrow I'll clean the sleeves put and start looking to install the new bushings!
Here's the tool set up to remove the first bushing
The threaded rod died on the last bushing. Hopefully can make this work if need to install the new ones
The old bushings look dreadful, bit I guess they were forced out. (Bonded rubber into the sleeve)
Tomorrow I'll clean the sleeves put and start looking to install the new bushings!
kb3
Well-Known Member
Good thing you had the tool! Even then those old bushings are well past their usable life.
Been slowly working on getting the new bushings in.
Got the lower control arms mostly sorted. I have to clean up the mounts on the subframe and shim the new bushings. Then the lowers are done. The old bushings came out pretty easy with the tool they provided.
Here's a shot of the old bushings and the snazzy delrin ones.
I also have a replacement for the rear diff mount. The aftermarket offers just new bushings as well as a modified mount that lowers the rear of the diff to allow for the oprimal driveline angle. I figured why not, plus this old mount looked as bad as the others
Still need to do the upper arms. They require some trimming to get the old bushings out.
I have the new diff bushings and a set of Bilstiens on the way. Then I just need some smaller items to finish assembly.
Got the lower control arms mostly sorted. I have to clean up the mounts on the subframe and shim the new bushings. Then the lowers are done. The old bushings came out pretty easy with the tool they provided.
Here's a shot of the old bushings and the snazzy delrin ones.
I also have a replacement for the rear diff mount. The aftermarket offers just new bushings as well as a modified mount that lowers the rear of the diff to allow for the oprimal driveline angle. I figured why not, plus this old mount looked as bad as the others
Still need to do the upper arms. They require some trimming to get the old bushings out.
I have the new diff bushings and a set of Bilstiens on the way. Then I just need some smaller items to finish assembly.
kb3
Well-Known Member
That should be a night and day difference on how it drives and handles!
Definitely looking forward to driving with this new setup!
Cut the old bushings removed from the upper arms. They were in bad shape too.
Had to trim a bit in order for the tool to fit.
One of the bushings was separated from its shell too. Look how much the tool deformed! These things were not wanting to come out.
I have the subframe ready to try and test fit the arms. The lower needs shimmed, but it seems to be a pretty straightforward process.
Cut the old bushings removed from the upper arms. They were in bad shape too.
Had to trim a bit in order for the tool to fit.
One of the bushings was separated from its shell too. Look how much the tool deformed! These things were not wanting to come out.
I have the subframe ready to try and test fit the arms. The lower needs shimmed, but it seems to be a pretty straightforward process.
Got the new bushings installed onto the arms. I had them chilling (literally) on the freezer. I was able to Heman them into place most of the way by hand. Tap with a rubber mallet finished seating them.
Got the upper arms mounted. Idk how loose they supposed to be. One place seems to suggest they should fall under their own weight, another says if you can adjust them easily with one hand they're good.
I can adjust them with one hand. I imagine with the rest of the weight on they'd fall freely.
Next up is the lowers. Need to adjust the tabs abit on them to allow the sleeves to fit freely.
New diff bushings and shocks are set to arrive Monday.
Thinking about putting on a coilover kit thay mounts on the shock. Seems like a popular option. Need to see since I may need to get a new driveshaft and the one I need seems to he the most expensive
Got the upper arms mounted. Idk how loose they supposed to be. One place seems to suggest they should fall under their own weight, another says if you can adjust them easily with one hand they're good.
I can adjust them with one hand. I imagine with the rest of the weight on they'd fall freely.
Next up is the lowers. Need to adjust the tabs abit on them to allow the sleeves to fit freely.
New diff bushings and shocks are set to arrive Monday.
Thinking about putting on a coilover kit thay mounts on the shock. Seems like a popular option. Need to see since I may need to get a new driveshaft and the one I need seems to he the most expensive
Been working on assembling the arms. The lowers require shims, so you have to take them on and off a handful of times. I need to use their tab straightener tool some more. The lower arms don't like to move very freely. Called tech support and they said it needs to almost fall under its own weight or as close to it.
Got the diff cover off. Made a mess since there was still a good bit of fluid in there surprisingly. Factory 8.8 trac loc, I'd like to swap it out for a torsen unit but that may be a future project.
Ordered new seals and halfshaft bearings for the diff housing. Wiped the diff out. Looked blah, but no shavings. Cleaned the lid up. Have a lubelocker gasket coming. Used them on other projects, seem to work very well and not require rtv or silicone.
Got the diff cover off. Made a mess since there was still a good bit of fluid in there surprisingly. Factory 8.8 trac loc, I'd like to swap it out for a torsen unit but that may be a future project.
Ordered new seals and halfshaft bearings for the diff housing. Wiped the diff out. Looked blah, but no shavings. Cleaned the lid up. Have a lubelocker gasket coming. Used them on other projects, seem to work very well and not require rtv or silicone.
kb3
Well-Known Member
You have to love the smell of used gear oil....it just seems to linger. That 8.8 Trac Loc can take a pretty good beating.
I'm hoping so. I know I'd kick myself if I get this all back together and it's bad. I just want to try to limit the scope of this project until it's in the car and driving.
Need to sort out a few smaller items. Still.
Need to decide if I just want to buy new calipers or reuse old ones. They aren't too expensive. Love to sort out a nice Brembo calipers that'll work, but seems that I'd lose the parking brake or Need to run a second caliper for that.
Need to get adapter for the exhaust. Was debating trying to expand the Borla pipes from 2.25 to 2.5 to fit the existing. But not sure if it'd take that. Could get 2.25 adapter for now and switch if I redo headers/mid pipe down the road.
The biggest and potentially most expensive part I'm not solid on is the driveshaft. I see some posts saying the stock will work, just swap the flange. Others are saying it needs to be changed put. There are aftermarket options specifically for this swap, but they aren't cheap. Literally seem to be one of the most expensive years to swap (01 Cobra)
Got the rear control arms on and greased up! I mounted the spindles on and added the rotors to give some weight to see if the arms were binding or if they fell freely. Seems to go up and down smoothly.
I will most likely pull the spindles off to replace the cross axis joints (basically the ball joint piece that affixed it to the control arms. The bushings are shot and replacements are hard to find.
I also got new Moog sway bar endlinks. Much beefier then the stock ones that were completely shot.
The rotors I have there are 2014 GT500 rear rotors. Got a caliper bracket to run these with the stock caliper. They're massive.
Also got the new shocks in today. Good old Bilsteins. They're grooved to accept a coilover kit that's on the way too.
I will most likely pull the spindles off to replace the cross axis joints (basically the ball joint piece that affixed it to the control arms. The bushings are shot and replacements are hard to find.
I also got new Moog sway bar endlinks. Much beefier then the stock ones that were completely shot.
The rotors I have there are 2014 GT500 rear rotors. Got a caliper bracket to run these with the stock caliper. They're massive.
Also got the new shocks in today. Good old Bilsteins. They're grooved to accept a coilover kit that's on the way too.
kb3
Well-Known Member
Looks like it is starting to come together. I am surprised those cross axis joints are difficult to source. I would definitely replace any and all wearable pieces before I put it back together.
The stock cross axis joints are pretty much non existent on most sites. There's a couple flavors of aftermarket ones that I'm looking at.
Replaced the axle bearings and seals on the sides of the diff today. Came out without too much trouble using a slide hammer.
Got the diff positioned on the subframe. Just need to get the new front crossmember installed and position the shims for the front mounts of the diff.
Replaced the axle bearings and seals on the sides of the diff today. Came out without too much trouble using a slide hammer.
Got the diff positioned on the subframe. Just need to get the new front crossmember installed and position the shims for the front mounts of the diff.
Got the diff mounted and torqued down. I'll have to check the pinion angle once installed, but hopefully no adjustments are needed.
I found the fancy zipties that hold the traction control wires on at the local Advance. They didn't even know they had them. Little zipties with a Christmas tree style push pin to mount it.
Got the control arms torqued down too. I'm skeptical on how tight they are. Hopefully it'll be fine with the weight of the car and the springs pushing against it.
I ordered new cross axis joints but the company is waiting for the parts to make them from a machine shop.
Got the shocks and coil overs assembled today! Not too difficult.
Waiting on a package with the new hardware to mount the coilovers to the lower control arm.
Have new IRS specific brake lines coming and finally I decided to order the 01 Cobra specific aluminum driveshaft.
The only part that hasn't be rebuilt at this point is the wheel bearings. I just don't have access to a press currently. Very annoying. Might order them and try to find one I can use.
I found the fancy zipties that hold the traction control wires on at the local Advance. They didn't even know they had them. Little zipties with a Christmas tree style push pin to mount it.
Got the control arms torqued down too. I'm skeptical on how tight they are. Hopefully it'll be fine with the weight of the car and the springs pushing against it.
I ordered new cross axis joints but the company is waiting for the parts to make them from a machine shop.
Got the shocks and coil overs assembled today! Not too difficult.
Waiting on a package with the new hardware to mount the coilovers to the lower control arm.
Have new IRS specific brake lines coming and finally I decided to order the 01 Cobra specific aluminum driveshaft.
The only part that hasn't be rebuilt at this point is the wheel bearings. I just don't have access to a press currently. Very annoying. Might order them and try to find one I can use.
kb3
Well-Known Member
It is coming together nicely. A press is a nice add on to the shop, even a cheaper Harbor Freight unit will find tons of uses.
Yeah, I looked at the 20 ton one harbor land has. Smaller then most I've seen.
I know how useful they are. Been used to seeing the huge ones. Since I move around alot I didn't want another huge, heavy piece of shop equipment to lug around. Least the hoist has wheels.
Maybe I'll see if there a coupon for harbor land around.
I know how useful they are. Been used to seeing the huge ones. Since I move around alot I didn't want another huge, heavy piece of shop equipment to lug around. Least the hoist has wheels.
Maybe I'll see if there a coupon for harbor land around.