• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

Fuel filler Mods

Tap a Tee into the top of the bend, so you can add a additive through the trunk. With a drain hole blocked off, it wouldn't be wise to pour an additive that might spill into the cavity. Or leave the drain hole and add a vent as well. Just my .02
 
what do you think of brazing a small tube on the inside so it would be hard to splash back but still drain?
 
what you need is a little check valve, a flap of metal that only lets gas down, and not back up. maybe a hinged door kind of thing. Probably way harder then your tube idea! :lol
 
"lethal289" said:
what you need is a little check valve, a flap of metal that only lets gas down, and not back up. maybe a hinged door kind of thing. Probably way harder then your tube idea! :lol
Click to expand...
yeah, as a drain it wouldn't have any pressure to open it. I was thinking the force of fuel coming back at the drain would be more restricted if it was a tube instead of just a hole but maybe not...
 
maybe just a tab set back a little from the hole, fuel could drain but it would block the hole directly from the back?!?
 
"tarafied1" said:
maybe just a tab set back a little from the hole, fuel could drain but it would block the hole directly from the back?!?
Click to expand...

As I was catching up on this thread, my thoughts ran along this line also. That will work.....about 1/2" below the drain hole. I will be glad to test it..... :vic
 
"AzPete" said:
As I was catching up on this thread, my thoughts ran along this line also. That will work.....about 1/2" below the drain hole. I will be glad to test it..... :vic
Click to expand...
All right! Yours will have the new and improved "baffle" !!!
 
:lol :lol :lol Just givin you a hard time. I only run a tank empty every 4-6 days right now so I don't have much filling opportunities.....
 
I want in on this deal. I'll send whatever I have out in the garage (need to do some digging, probably have 2-3), and if you get to the point of wanting/needing new ones, I can send you Dynacorn repros at wholesale.

Not looking for a freebie either, would be more than happy to compensate you for your time. I daily drove my fastback for a good 8 or 9 years, and spilled more gas on the taillight panel and bumper than I can quantify.
 
Craig, when you are ready, you can put me down for one each, 67 and 65.

The tube idea is a good idea!

I was thinking about this thread and after lurking around here, I think for some purposes you could "Y" the filler neck so that you could fill in the trunk if you want to. I was thinking of mounting my cap on the rear for looks and then putting a filler neck inside the trunk. This would allow me to lock my gas fill and avoid people stealing gas.

In the 70s I remember a spring device you installed in your filler neck that would not allow a tube to be inserted, thus not allowing the thief to steal your gas. what is you welded a cone shaped spring on to the restriction plate and a 1/8" hole with a tube at the bottom for a vent and drain. I know this would be complicated, but might be cool. I would be willing to give you my necks and pay you for materials and time. You should not just give your talent away. You should make something for your time.

I for one would like to lock my tank especially when in Vegas or CA with my car. I also hate the looks of the locking gas caps. On the 65 I am looking to put a pop open cap. So locking it is out of the question.

Oh, I am just thinking out loud. My ideas are not always good ones.

I hope some of my ideas help. Let me know when you are ready. I would be a terrible test case as I hardly drive my cars. I mostly add a tank or two a year. Besides the 65 is going to be taken apart for paint soon.

Thanks,

Mel
 
I have a 94 F150 and it has two filler necks that have the flapper and my 91 exploder has a flapper as well. If you go to a wrecking yard you can find either of these rigs sitting on a lot. Looking at my two rigs I noticed that they both have a hole drilled in them like you did but one of them has it drilled to the side of the fill hole while the other is on the bottom.
 
"guruatbol" said:
On the 65 I am looking to put a pop open cap. So locking it is out of the question.
Mel
Click to expand...

Mel, when I had my '66, I put a '69 pop-open cap on it. It was as simple as grinding down the curved part of the surround piece so it would fit somewhat flush with the rear panel. Looked great. '67 or '68 cap would work just as well, or possibly better. You can also modify the inside of the pop-open cap by removing the spring and seal and then you can use a Stant locking cap under the pop-open.

AzPete did the filler neck mod you mentioned (the filler inside the trunk). He's posted pictures previously.

Frank
 
"guruatbol" said:
I was thinking about this thread and after lurking around here, I think for some purposes you could "Y" the filler neck so that you could fill in the trunk if you want to. I was thinking of mounting my cap on the rear for looks and then putting a filler neck inside the trunk. This would allow me to lock my gas fill and avoid people stealing gas.


Mel
Click to expand...

I did this on my last '66 Coupe, about 3-4 years ago. Worked great. Sealed the inside cap so no fumes, used the outside one for the vent.

100_9362.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The way the flap works (I believe) is if you place a nozzle too large in the filler, it won't open the flap. The nozzle is designed to auto shut-off if fuel splashes back into the nozzle. Therefore the flap prevents too much of the wrong fuel from entering the tank. I rent cars every week and have noticed more and more no longer have the flap. I guess this is because there are no longer unleaded nozzles with the larger diameter and not using the flap saves money. I have considered salvage yard hunting to get flapper parts but I don't think the flap is needed. I have purchased a hole saw the correct diameter for the unleaded nozzle so it is pretty snug when filling. I'm having trouble visualizing the spring idea but will give it some thought. Right now my belief is that the splash is coming from the drain hole which I feel is needed. I have set the depth of the plate based on my F150 depth. I don't want to get it too far in or the nozzle may be difficult to get in the hole. I may push it back some more however. I started with mig welding these but burning holes was an issue. Especially on Frank's where we used a washer that was thicker than the neck. Rick's was the first one I brazed and that went better. I think in Pete's (he sent me a neck a long time ago) I am going to try the deflector just behind the drain. I thought the tube was a good idea but I don't know if I can braze inside the neck to attach the tube. The way I am making these is to slice into the neck and slide the plate in the slit and braze it on the out side. I wouldn't be able to slide the plate in with a tube brazed on it and holding the tube and brazing it inside the neck seems to difficult. My other option would be to completely cut the neck in half, put the plate/tube assemble in and braze the three pieces together. But first I want to try the deflector. I don't have much invested yet, some brazing rod, a hole saw and some time. It's been a fun project and I have learned a lot. I am grateful for those who have tried them and given me feedback.
 
I think the deflector will work good. I was also wondering if you were to put the nozzle hole a bit lower than center, if that would give a better shut off control when full......just thoughts......
 
"AzPete" said:
I think the deflector will work good. I was also wondering if you were to put the nozzle hole a bit lower than center, if that would give a better shut off control when full......just thoughts......
Click to expand...
I'll try it with yours and we'll see. I'm planning to make your tomorrow.
 
Pete,
I got yours done today, it will ship Monday. Your's turned out the best so far I think and it has the deflector in it about 3/8" behind the unleaded nozzle plate. It was kinda cold when I painted it so I hope the paint dries. I painted it with high temp semi gloss black engine paint on the out side only. This is the first 65/66 neck I've done. It was not really round like the 67/68 necks. I went a head and centered the filler hole because if I offset it, it would be too close to the drain hole and look funny I think. When you get it installed let us know how the deflector works. The angle is less than 90 degrees or at least less than the 67/68's. I think it will work good. I will pull mine back out and add deflector to it also.
 
"tarafied1" said:
The way the flap works (I believe) is if you place a nozzle too large in the filler, it won't open the flap. The nozzle is designed to auto shut-off if fuel splashes back into the nozzle. Therefore the flap prevents too much of the wrong fuel from entering the tank. I rent cars every week and have noticed more and more no longer have the flap. I guess this is because there are no longer unleaded nozzles with the larger diameter and not using the flap saves money. I have considered salvage yard hunting to get flapper parts but I don't think the flap is needed.
Click to expand...

I have a pop-open gas cap. I think they're the bee's knees, but I've never been sure about how well they seal. The new ones use a regular cap inside and the pop-open part is purely cosmetic.

Point is, I think the flap would cut down on splash against the actual cap, cutting down on any leakage that may be occuring. I think the flap should be incorporated if feasible.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top