WHAT!!! Camero parts on a mustang. Tell me its not true.
-
Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
Already a member? Login here then!
Horseplay: 1965 Fastback Restomod
- Thread starter Horseplay
- Start date
I wrote "like the type". I would never put a Camaro part on my ride.
Just having some fun with ya. That is sharp looking one though.I wrote "like the type". I would never put a Camaro part on my ride.
Last edited:
Grabber70Mach
Well-Known Member
It is looking really nice.
swpruett
Member
Really enjoying seeing your build progress! Keep those updates coming!
RyanG85
Well-Known Member
Here's what I did with my hydraulic clutch reservoir.
http://www.stangfix.com/index.php?threads/what-did-you-get-done-on-your-stang-today.14341/page-49
http://www.stangfix.com/index.php?threads/what-did-you-get-done-on-your-stang-today.14341/page-49
Looking good Moon Pie.
kb3
Well-Known Member
Started to build my rear seat delete tray on Saturday. The available fiberglass pieces don't do it for me. I want something better looking and functioning. The intention is to build something from scratch that will fill the void left by the fold down removal that has mounting for a full size spare (I plan on driving this often, far and hard) and also provide hidden storage for things like a tool kit, small jack, detailing stuff and such for shows. What little trunk space a FB has will be dressed out and not be much in the way of use for storage. Much of the material I ordered in has arrived so time to get serious. We got hammered with over a foot of snow on Sunday so I had to give up my garage workspace so I could pull the other cars in. Weather is to let up later this week so I can get back at it. Pics to come!
kb3
Well-Known Member
Snow? Pushing 70 here again this week!
I am curious to how you are going to build the tray. Take lots of pictures!
I am curious to how you are going to build the tray. Take lots of pictures!
Ok, so I am finally back to work on the delete tray. Had a crisis at work that forced me down to Miami last week. I know. Tough job. Anyway, back in the garage today. As stated earlier I am building a seat delete set-up. Aside from the earlier stated storage goals I am also hoping to offset the some of the weight of all the sound deadening and such I added. When I shipped my complete rear seat assembly and three piece fold down the stated shipping weight was 75 pounds. I figure packaging aside the actual removed parts likely weighed about 55-65 lbs (if anyone knows the actual weight I would love to know that number).
Lots of guys use MDF and plywood for such projects. Too much weight for me. I am using 18 ga 3/4" steel box stock for the skeleton and 1/4" hardboard for the skin. Carpet and such will dress out the surface. Got a few dress up ideas as well.
The frame is done and it not only fits/works perfectly, it is also very light but more than strong enough for the task. Next I will fab up a handful of mounting tabs that will be welded to the car that the frame will be attached to with screws/bolts. I left all the original seat mounting stuff in place so if I (or a future owner) ever decide to put a seat in, can. After that I get to pull out some of my woodworking tools and make a hardwood bullnose piece for the area where the tray drops off to the floor. I want a nice rounded edge there. It will also serve to locate the hardboard pieces to make mounting screw alignment simple. Those two large rectangle openings will end up being access doors. I will be using some modern hinges, latches and pulls as found in current automobiles. Debating making inner boxes to define the storage space or simply leave it wide open behind the doors. Opinions? The inside will be covered in a couple layers of Ensolite (high heat area above mufflers) and trunk carpet. Either way, I will include a fixed mount for the jack and an extinguisher so they aren't bouncing around.
Teaser pic. More to come as things proceed...
Anyway, back in the garage today. As stated earlier I am building a seat delete set-up. Aside from the earlier stated storage goals I am also hoping to offset the some of the weight of all the sound deadening and such I added. When I shipped my complete rear seat assembly and three piece fold down the stated shipping weight was 75 pounds. I figure packaging aside the actual removed parts likely weighed about 55-65 lbs (if anyone knows the actual weight I would love to know that number).Lots of guys use MDF and plywood for such projects. Too much weight for me. I am using 18 ga 3/4" steel box stock for the skeleton and 1/4" hardboard for the skin. Carpet and such will dress out the surface. Got a few dress up ideas as well.
The frame is done and it not only fits/works perfectly, it is also very light but more than strong enough for the task. Next I will fab up a handful of mounting tabs that will be welded to the car that the frame will be attached to with screws/bolts. I left all the original seat mounting stuff in place so if I (or a future owner) ever decide to put a seat in, can. After that I get to pull out some of my woodworking tools and make a hardwood bullnose piece for the area where the tray drops off to the floor. I want a nice rounded edge there. It will also serve to locate the hardboard pieces to make mounting screw alignment simple. Those two large rectangle openings will end up being access doors. I will be using some modern hinges, latches and pulls as found in current automobiles. Debating making inner boxes to define the storage space or simply leave it wide open behind the doors. Opinions? The inside will be covered in a couple layers of Ensolite (high heat area above mufflers) and trunk carpet. Either way, I will include a fixed mount for the jack and an extinguisher so they aren't bouncing around.
Teaser pic. More to come as things proceed...
RyanG85
Well-Known Member
I like it! If you're finishing the floor off under it, I would leave the storage area wide open. Will give you more storage options than a square box.
Been traveling a lot for work so progress has been slowed. I did finish up the metal work on the tray and moved into the next phase of construction. Hoping to get off early today and get out to the garage. I promise many more pics will get posted this weekend.
I bought a parking brake handle for my emergency brakes that I am also fabbing up a mount for at the same time. Using a set of Lokar (Explorer style) cables with it. Need to get it all "understood" before I get too far as it, the home built center console and tray kind of all need to play nice together.
Best part is once all this gets done the interior installation can start! Cannot wait.
I bought a parking brake handle for my emergency brakes that I am also fabbing up a mount for at the same time. Using a set of Lokar (Explorer style) cables with it. Need to get it all "understood" before I get too far as it, the home built center console and tray kind of all need to play nice together.
Best part is once all this gets done the interior installation can start! Cannot wait.
kb3
Well-Known Member
once again I will be watching with interest. I have yet to install the E brake system in the fastback. It did not have the original one when we bought it and I have yet to come to terms with mounting one on the tunnel.
My dad and I installed a rear seat delete fiberglass tray in the 66 FB racer we made in the mid 1980's. It worked but rattled and didnt seem finished enough for my liking. Although I was all about going racing I wanted a well sorted car. I have to say Terry that I really like how youve engineered your rear seat delete. Keep up the great work. More pics too !!
OK. Quick update. Had to fly out on Sunday unexpectedly so didn't get as much time on car this past weekend as I wanted. Spent most of the available time on the parking brake set up. I wanted to understand it's positioning relative to the shifter, seat and tunnel. All this comes into play in the custom console I will build which in turn plays against the tray.
I am using a circa 1990 mustang brake handle assembly. The way it mounts and the overall design work well for my intended use. I modified it slightly as it has a self-tensioning feature that I did not want or need with my emergency brake set-up. I simply clipped the spring and welded the tang to the "sprocket" to make it a fixed device.
I made a small hole in the tunnel and fabbed up a recessed "box" out of 1" box stock into which the cable routes so that it comes off the brake assembly at the proper angle and routes horizontally into the tunnel for connection to the rear cables very neatly and high above the drive shaft. A portion of the stock rubber guide is retained which keeps the dirt off the cable and seals the exit hole around the cable.
The actual handle mount is made of 1" x 1/4" steel stock which is shaped to match the contour of the tunnel. It will be welded in when complete. It firmly positions the unit and also established a comfortable operating height.
A few pics for now. I still have to make the underside mount and connections. Should be able to post that up a little later this week when I finish up.
I am using a circa 1990 mustang brake handle assembly. The way it mounts and the overall design work well for my intended use. I modified it slightly as it has a self-tensioning feature that I did not want or need with my emergency brake set-up. I simply clipped the spring and welded the tang to the "sprocket" to make it a fixed device.
I made a small hole in the tunnel and fabbed up a recessed "box" out of 1" box stock into which the cable routes so that it comes off the brake assembly at the proper angle and routes horizontally into the tunnel for connection to the rear cables very neatly and high above the drive shaft. A portion of the stock rubber guide is retained which keeps the dirt off the cable and seals the exit hole around the cable.
The actual handle mount is made of 1" x 1/4" steel stock which is shaped to match the contour of the tunnel. It will be welded in when complete. It firmly positions the unit and also established a comfortable operating height.
A few pics for now. I still have to make the underside mount and connections. Should be able to post that up a little later this week when I finish up.
Finished up the parking/emergency brake stuff. Have to go back under and touch up a bit of the bed liner where welding melted a bit and to cover up the cable recess extension. Used a set of Lokar cables to connect things together. Had to modify the parts a bit but nothing major simply to conform to the tunnel shape and to work with the metric end of the Ford brake cable. Turned out pretty good, I think. As a bonus it works!
Awesome!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Fst Blk
Well-Known Member
Nice work. I've been studying how to accomplish this. On the Explorer 8.8 I've got I just need a cable to tie into the existing cable as I just unhooked it at the pedal on the donor. I even got all the brackets. This should be straight forward with what you've shown. Thanks.