• Hello there guest and Welcome to The #1 Classic Mustang forum!
    To gain full access you must Register. Registration is free and it takes only a few moments to complete.
    Already a member? Login here then!

New Project! 1968 Volvo P1800 "Bullwinkle"

The shock tower bracing is done. Pretty much ready to come home for me to work on it. I can’t wait to get my hands dirty again.

dcafa3c256ea7d976701b9c73c327498.jpg

54f7a6f74524235002c4efdf56793081.jpg

aa7a2c2086251a742cc53a6f0c458a3a.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Gee, those are just simply superb~!!! I responded to the headers, now the engine~ OMG!!!!
 
Last edited:
So I can't see from the pics well enough. Is all that bracing welded into the chassis? The engine has to drop out through the bottom now?
 
Great write-up, it's going to be a benchmark car.

_____________________________
Never argue with a Moron. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
 
Great write-up, it's going to be a benchmark car.

_____________________________
Never argue with a Moron. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
 
I was able to make some progress this weekend on a couple items. I had to remake a transmission cooler bracket. There wasn’t sufficient space to hook up the lines to it. Retry boring stuff so no pictures there.

I was able to work out my emergency brake mount. I will be using an Estopp electric setup. I mounted it to the driveshaft tunnel and routed the cables from the rear end. The big benefit to doing it now was access to the rear end. It helps not having all the sheet metal there. LOL!

View attachment 158618View attachment 158619View attachment 158620
View attachment 158621

I also started to fabricate a bracket to hold the Bosch ABS setup. It will be mounted behind the front drivers wheel. It will be bolted into the wheel well in two pieces. Rivnuts make the job pretty clean. I will post some pictures of that at it progresses.

I also was able to layout the brake and cooler lines. The little things are starting to come together but there is a ton of work to do before it goes in for paint.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My rear end and hubs are still off at the machine shop having tone rings installed. I hope to have them back in the next couple weeks.

In the meantime, I have been working on some small items. I have the Restomod heater box mounted, Accusump mounted in front of the radiator, ABS mounted under the fender, modified the firewall for more u-joint and header clearance and mounted the nozzles for the fire suppression system.

I also have the wiring layer out. There was a lot of items there. I have a Haltech ECU that needs to talk with the Bosch ABS, traction control, Compushift transmission controller and the AIM data logger. It also has to talk with the shifter and paddle shifter. Seems like a lot of moving parts and communicating parts to deal with.

I am still waiting on my Lokar electronic sport shifter to arrive. Once that shows up I will mount it and and reinstall the engine and transmission. Getting pretty close to heading back to the body shop for paint.
Accusump mounted along with the condenser and power steering cooler.
3e1cc78cd89338420aa8bcd54161e7e8.jpg


The air pressure port extension for the Accusump.
05f2c10fd89612ac7b02ce7db83e346d.jpg


Bosch ABS mounted
7dbf85c823a1e2d03e904e54a613b8fc.jpg


The powder coated fuel tank is back in.
f1fea385ec3a954546be2e448cc4bf95.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
INCREDIBLE!! my oldest brother is amazed at what I can do! haha! I'm amazed at what you're doing!;)
 
I was having a very hard time finding a shifter that would work. There really isn’t much space between the transmission and the transmission tunnel so I had to use a cable operated shifter. Lokar has a really neat Electronic Sport shifter that will work great with my Twist Machine paddle shifter.

a1aa1b8ee5bc611cb2cee864c4649fca.jpg

6f9c29e8aea7b7f86182d50580da847a.jpg

238d1f6556a20d0d2173abf4b7dac2c9.jpg

65939ad0417ea4a17b96f7cbc73f527a.jpg

d49ffbe89f4a64dddb80b5d5bb4aa054.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That is one cool shifter!! What's your plan for the console? you know, to hide all the mechanism which is really neat!
 
The shifter is pretty cool and more importantly fits what my needs are. The space was so tight and hard the come up with a viable option.

A center console will be built to cover the shifter. I may have to get the next size longer shifter. I will see what my interior guy comes up with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have been working for a few years now on my Volvo 1800 project. It has been so long my rotors have surface rust. LOL! I am getting really close to paint but I wanted to add a couple items to my car before that happens. I will be using a Haltech ECU that will allow me to have traction control and a Bosch ABS setup. Both of those require me to run wheel speed sensors.

My biggest problem was to figure out a way to put on tone rings. The rear setup was easy enough. I called up Strange Engineering and ordered their Pro-Touring Floater hub kit with the optional tone rings that would allow me to run 2005-2010 Mustang sensors. I will be using the sensors from the Bosch kit instead of the ford sensors so I will have to fabricate some mounts. That shouldn’t be too bad.

The more challenging part was the front hubs. There were no provisions or options for tone rings and there isn’t much info out there with measurements for the rings. Well it turns out that the same rings from the Strange kit are almost a perfect fit. The hubs had to be machined slightly and we left a .002” pressure fit. Another mod I did was to change the hardware on the bolts for the hat to hub. Wilwood had a good alternative. I still need to safety wire the bolts but clearance is good. The wires will have to be low and tight though.

Here are a couple pictures and a link to the Strange kit.

https://www.strangeengineering.net/...s-1/pro-touring-floater-kit-axles-brake-kits/

2b5d42dc6f68a7e4a3a6f829d7ced6f5.jpg

ab4e0e83ac25486b52a164cef4e72b6b.jpg

8c263b34372e7b24081de1f850ba97d9.jpg

f5753972f737f66ab17b8bbfe706a7b6.jpg
 
Last edited:
I was planning on a Aston Martin Grey but my daughter keeps on telling me "NO! It needs to be more colorful." I think it will be grey but I may have a last minute change of heart. I have never owned a blue car. Maybe Porsche Miami Blue or Huntington Beach Blue would look nice?
 
That car should not be colorful, all apologies to the daughter. Too much effort has gone into the body lines to hide it with something bright like red or blue. Your initial instincts are right. A metal color like dark silver or a grey would be best. And it needs just enough metallic to allow the light to show off the lines.
 
I was just going through original colors, not that you want original, sometimes cars from the past look 'wrong' with updated colors, say, for instance, candy apple colors?
Is it going to have bumpers?


I was kind of cheap and didn't want to buy expensive chrome bumpers. I painted my old worn out chrome bumpers to carry on the rally stripes and of course the British Racing green. I get a lot of compliments.
 
That is a nice looking TR6! Good color combo.

My car will have the bumpers chromed. The more I think about it and the more feedback I get I am pretty certain it will be the Grey color. I really want the workmanship and details to stand out more than the color. I will just add the color to the interior.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top