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TARAfied 64 Falcon

"Opentracker" said:
I believe the horns go up front like on the Mustangs. By hey, the driver can hear it better where it is. Mine doesn't work, I just yell or throw something.

that horn would sound real good mounted like that after the first rainstorm or wash job filled it with water!!
 
"SELLERSRODSHOP" said:
that horn would sound real good mounted like that after the first rainstorm or wash job filled it with water!!

Could have been the BEER holder while he was working on the motor.
 
I went to the Falcon nationals this weekend to the swap meet. picked up a few things on my list:
- Drivers side headlight ring
- windshield (Steve can get me a new one)
- front seats (I'll use some 68 Mustang seats I have...)
- rear axle
- bumpers and brackets
- gas cap
- gas tank
- steering wheel
- trunk lock
- ignition switch
- door locks
???
I found one front bumper bracket, shop manual, mirrors, window crank handle and a few other small things.
 
I found a guy posted that he used a 88 Nissan Sentra brake booster and a late '90s Subaru Legacy M/C to get rid of the jelly jar M/C on his 63 Ranchero.
I might do this too, it has 4 ports (The M/C) so two for tthe front, one for rear and the forth for the brake light pressure switch. He also used the Mustang Steve's advice to adjust the pedal ratio. He made some sort of "adapter"
I had originally purchased Mustang Steve's template and pin for the brake pedal, intending to use his complete setup. Then, I found out where one of those two inches that we hear about in Mustang engine compartments is. It's between the center line of the compartment and the master cylinder centerline. Steve's recommended booster wanted to be inside my left valve cover.

I decided to do the Geo Metro master cylinder conversion, but could not find rebuilt parts, so I searched for a similar booster that WAS in stock at my local CarQuest. That turned out to be a late '80s Nissan Sentra booster. I used Steve's template because it already had the holes in it for the pedal support and the firewall. I then transfered the boosters hole pattern to the template, bolted the template to the firewall and drilled the new holes. Then I followed Steve's instructions for modifying the pedal support. The hard part was opening up the firewall end of the pedal support to clear the rubber boot on the booster. The hole in the firewall for the original master cylinder must also be opened up. I found that the hole in Steve's template was the same size as a 2" conduit punch, which I just happened to have. Then, I put some silicone in the extra holes in the firewall, and around the stud holes of the booster, and around the rubber boot to seal the firewall. Then I bolted the booster up to the pedal support using just the four 8mm studs from the booster. The operator rod from the booster is a 10mm stud. Steve makes good arguments for changing the pedal ratio, and I decided to do that rather than hook up the rod directly to the pedal. I've heard that the Geo setup is rather "touchy", and it is some what easy to change the ratio. The '63 brake pedal has a through bolt for connecting the M/C rod to the pedal, so I just drilled an identical hole 1-1/4 inch lower on the pedal, then designed an adapter to connect the operator rod to the pedal. My son is making that part out of 6061 aluminum.

The Mustang SVO master cylinder that Steve recommends is about 1/8 inch too long to fit between the booster and the spring tower, and the there is huge interference with the export brace. Back to CarQuest, and I found the late '90s Subaru Legacy M/C that fits right on the booster. It is aluminum, has a 1" bore (I've got 4 wheel discs), and comes with a fluid level sensor in the jar. AND it fits perfectly.

One of my deciding factors for the Subaru Legacy M/C was neat bottle with a fluid level sensor in it that I have connected to the parking brake light.
top_view.jpg

master_cyl.jpg

inside_booster.jpg

http://www.mustangsteve.com/BRAKES.html
 
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pulled the 6 cylinder 4 lug rear axle out this afternoon. Found a guy working on a 6 cylinder Stang that needed it. He says he has a shell of a 65 he will give me for the rear. Haven't seen it yet but I dropped off the rear at his garage today, he wasn't home.
530200_3681265555828_1521649653_n.jpg
 
I set the car (springs) on top of the axle (upside down) just to see what it would look like as a Gasser...
306708_3687207944384_1258878035_n.jpg
 
Although a gasser would be cool, I think that thing is begging to be slammed with at least 18's :confu

What rear end did you end up with?

Bill
 
my wife isn't getting into the Gasser look, it will probably end up slammed! I think I told you I have a potentially great deal on a MII front suspension.
I got an 8" from my buddies 65 Mustang. It will bolt in. It's just sitting on top of the axle now. I need some wheels that will clear the fenders.
 
What made your buddy decide to got to stock style suspension after he already had the M2 stuff welded up?

Bill
 
I'm not really sure. The car was a basket case so I thought the MII set-up would be the way to go. He seams worried about structural rigidity. I think having the shock towers just makes him more comfortable...
 
My vote is for a Mule clone. It'll be fun to drive, handle well and still be fast on the drag strip. Those high-boy's are hard to drive around corners.
 
"Opentracker" said:
My vote is for a Mule clone. It'll be fun to drive, handle well and still be fast on the drag strip. Those high-boy's are hard to drive around corners.
I agree, I was just kinda playin' around
 
"Opentracker" said:
My vote is for a Mule clone. It'll be fun to drive, handle well and still be fast on the drag strip. Those high-boy's are hard to drive around corners.

What's a mule?

Bill
 
Those Pantera wheels fit the cars great if you can handle the look of 'em. The fronts are 15X7 with 4.25 backspacing, the rears are 15X8 with 5.25 backspacing. My rig has 225/60's up front and 245/60's out back. Lot's of grip. You can paint them to look different.

mD_tCT7P5hvbRhJirnvMpNw.jpg
mop2Vi0AjXoiVIkE7cdephw.jpg
 
"67 Fastback" said:
What's a mule?

Bill


We call this car the Mule. It's my workhorse for OPR. I do a lot of my suspension testing with it. It got the first set of roller perches back in 03. If it could talk, I'd be in BIG trouble.


themule.jpg
 
"Opentracker" said:
Those Pantera wheels fit the cars great if you can handle the look of 'em. The fronts are 15X7 with 4.25 backspacing, the rears are 15X8 with 5.25 backspacing. My rig has 225/60's up front and 245/60's out back. Lot's of grip. You can paint them to look different.
Thanks, they look great on the Mule!
 
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